Butcher Block Kitchen Countertop

[ionut]

Hi Steve,

I am sorry, sometimes when trying to include all the details of the story, it ends being too complicated and confusing. BTW that was not English, it was Sharpenish...
I've included a picture, in English this time , at the following link

http://cid-bc168f3568163031.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=play&resid=BC168F3568163031!309

I hope you can see the scratch line on the shaft and the mark on the wheel. The point is to have the shaft and all your stones marked so you align the marks every time when you mount them. Don't forget to true the stones with the marks aligned.

You don't need to strop if you don't want, I found though that proper stropping will make the edge even better. I use honing compound only when the honing effectiveness is diminished.

Ionut

[Steve Brown]

Hi Ionut,
Makes perfect sense now that I can see it. So, there is really no logic as to where you draw the line such as the measuring the distance from the center of the shaft to the outside of the wheel? In other words, the line is totally arbitrary. It is just a reference point on each wheel so that the wheel gets mounted in the exact same position each time you use it. Is that right?
Steve

[ionut]

Yes Steve that is correct, you mark the shaft and the stones where you want and with whatever marks you like. The point is to be able to always mount the stones in the same location in relation to the shaft. This will ensure, if the stones are trued based to this alignment, that every time when you change the stones the grinding plane is kept the same.

Ionut

[Steve Brown]

Great Ionut, I got it. Thanks,
Steve

[Jeff Farris]

This is only going to work if the inside washer is also kept in the same alignment as well. The fit between the inside face of the stone, the inside washer and the shoulder in the shaft determines the angle at which the stone is mounted to the shaft. The stone can be in the same alignment to the shaft, but if the inside washer slips a quarter turn, the perpendicularity of the stone can be affected.

[ionut]

Hi Jeff,

Yes, that is right, but considering the fact that the washer is fully supported on the plastic bearing that doesn't move and the fact that the thickness of the material for the washer is being uniform I considered in my case to ignore marking the washer as well as when I tested it in different position it didn't make a difference for my grinding machine. It may make a difference on other machines so it may be a good idea to take that in consideration as well.

Thanks,
Ionut

[Steve Brown]

Is the washer accessible such that you can mark it while marking the shaft and the stone?
Steve

[ionut]

Hi Steve,

There are two washers sandwiching the stone, the one that can be also marked is the one close to the machine you can get access to it when you remove the stone.

Ionut

[Steve Brown]

I took my stone off and I can see the inside washer. I'm going to mark thr center of the shaft and run a line up to the washer for reference. Then I'll transfer the line on the shaft onto the stone. I think that should get it.
Steve

[Steve Brown]

Hey KenS & Ionut,
What do you guys like for a dovetail saw? How many tpi, 15 or 20?
Steve

[Ken S]

Steve,

I use a nice old Disston straight handle dovetail saw which is probably a hundred years old.  I have no complaints with it.  If I was going to purchase a saw today, I would probably get the regular (15 or 14 tooth) Lie-Nielsen or Lee Valley.  If you plan to do a lot of dovetails with thin boards (1/2" or less) the 20 tooth saw might be useful.  I would start with the standard 15 tooth saw.  I have seen the Lee Valley saw.  It's very nice.  I tend to be more of a traditionalist, so I would lean toward the Lie-Nielsen.  Although I like my present straight handle saw, I would probably get a pistol grip handle.

There are other premium saws available as well.  Lie-Nielsen offers a saw sharpening service for its saws, although I wonder how often a sixty year old hobbyist would need the service.

Ken

ps Ernie Conover has written an excellent dovetail book.

[ionut]

Hi Steve,

I am currently making my own. I've used a great Japanese one, I still do, not so often though, I believe it depends on the moon phases, 18 tpi that leaves a planned like kerf surfaces, I find it a bit slow or I am trying to be too fast. I used a 14tpi Veritas saw which is a good one but not aggressive enough as the rake angle is 14-15 degrees. I personally prefer the current one I am making, 18tpi is good for almost anything and the steel is 0.018 thick and the rake is 6-8 degrees, heavy back, 0.002-0.003 set. After I've sharpened and set it, the blade cuts like a hot knife in a chunk of butter and also has a larger effective depth of cut, 2". Unfortunately I rushed my first handle and I am not entirely happy with the slot I've cut, so my second handle is waiting for being slotted and shaped, but somehow the days seems to e too short lately...

Ionut

[Steve Brown]

Hi Ionut,
What do you thing about the Lie-Nielsen progressive tooth dovetail saw?
Steve

[ionut]

Hi Steve,

Well I am not sure if that is a real progressive tpi or two different tpi areas. In my opinion is just a marketing thing made to attract people. Regardless which way is it, it is meant to ease the starting of the cut as the number of tpi towards the far end of the front of the saw is larger. But that would never replace the learning curve of using the saw. When you get accustomed with the saw you will know how to start the cut regardless of the number of tpi. Also that may make the maintenance of the saw, especially sharpening more painful as you may probably need to use two files size to sharpen the teeth. If is not more expensive than a constant tpi saw you can try it, but if you ask me what I would do,  I would not bother with it.
I am sorry if I am again in the position to cut your wings, but I wouldn't help by telling you something else than I really believe.

Ionut