Improved support when using the DBS-22

[Ken S]

Well done, Janne!

A 20mm drill bit is a lot of steel to sharpen. You certainly don't need a magnifier to see it!

I am pleased to see that the T4 can handle the work.

Keep up the good work.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

Those were definitely pre Tormek days. An auger bit file and a mill file made life easier.

I wish I had a Tormek and DBS-22 back then!

Ken

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought an auger bit, was one of the bits the DBS-22, wasn't designed for and couldn't sharpen?!

[Janne]

Hello, this is an example of a big heavy drill bit and a "normal" drill bit. :-)

A common 22 mm drill bit with Morse's cone for drill press or support lathe.

A common 8 mm drill bit for hand held maskines.




Janne

[Ken S]

SADW,

You are correct. Auger bits are outside the scope of the DBS-22. We used auger bits. We also used conventional Morse bits in many sizes from "drill bits" up to about 3/4" (19mm) and in lengths up to thirty six inches (.9 meter), the most common lengths being 12" (300mm) and 18" (450mm). we carried these in square shank to use in a brace and in round shank for use in electric drills.

Janne,

These bits rarely "cut like butter" A Tormek would have helped that. I carried a mill file, which made my bits sharper than most.

Ken

[MrBiscuit]

Support.



Drill at the right sliding position.


Drill at the left sliding position.

Sliding movement is centered over the  tool base plate.

Thanks for good help and advice with the posting of Pictures.

Janne

I wish I could see these pictures... :-( I just re-ground and sharpened an entire set of 118-degree bits down to 90-degrees for soft materials. Grinding at 90-degrees presents two problems for me with the DBS-22:

1) If you grind at the recommended bit protrusion, you can't grind using the full width of the wheel as the drill bit holder will come in contact with the left edge of the grinding wheel when you grind the bit using the right side of the wheel. The solution for me was to increase the bit protrusion approximately 3/16-inch.
2) When grinding using the left side of the wheel, the "sled" portion of the jig can become supported only 50% or less by the underlying support. I really wish the support extended left past the horizontal support bar.

I would be interested in seeing how you extended your support more to the left of the machine (past where it butts up against the horizontal support). The only thing that comes to mind for me is to get an extra support plate and cut off an inch or two of the channel and re-drill/re-tap a new hole for the screw knob.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Mr. Biscuit.

Interesting workaround adding the 3/16"  to the bit protrusion. Clever and innovative thinking!

I wish I had the Tormek and DBS-22 when I was still working installing and repairing telephone and data circuits. I was one of the last dinosaurs to use a brace and bit.
I used to file my twist bits (1/4"-5/8") with 90° bevels. For the framing lumber I usually drilled, the 90° bevels really helped.

I will check out the extra left side support.

Ken