New bloke with a Supergrind 2000

[violaine]

while i wait for the photobucket to be sane again...

id like to ask as a noobie, shall i just let the stone dry after that fateful test run? i removed the remaining water in the trough..

there is not a single distrubutor here in the Philippines...as you know, fine woodworkers in this country are few...and if you ask some backyard woodshops who makesdoor jambs and solid panel doors about moisture meters, they will say "what?"

i cannot wait for the truing tool! hmf..

[violaine]

...and after the truing the stone...can i sharpen my chisels right away? or i need a stone grader?

can a two sided generic honing block do the trick?

thanks

[Herman Trivilino]

You will be able to grind a chisel right away, but without the stone grader you won't be able to get a fine finish.

You have to be able to take the grindstone back and forth between the course (~200 grit) and fine (~1000 grit).  I don't know how to do that without the stone grader.  I would guess you could accomplish it with water proof abrasives, but it would be easier to just order the stone grader along with the truing tool.

You may want some other  jigs, too.  I mean, you can free hand stuff, but with the square edge jig you can't do much more than wood chisels and plane irons.  Although we did mess around a little bit sharpening some knives using only my homemade knife jig and the square edge jig.

[Herman Trivilino]

can a two sided generic honing block do the trick?

It might be worth a try. 

The problem, though, is that without experience that's going to be an extra variable you'll have to juggle as you climb the learning curve.

[violaine]

thanks for your input Herman, if the learning curve is steep for this Tormek, i am rooting now to buy the stone grader..good thing is, its relatively within my pockets reach.

i have a NOS marples basic 8 piece turning tools and of course, what are turning tools if you dont a lathe..so i guess, next time around, if my wallet is fat enough, il also get the accessories to sharpen them...and of course the lathe.

incidentally, i am getting some serious stuff like a second hand japanese 12 inch jointer which is  being refurbished by a friend, in which case, i will be needing the jig to sharpen its blades..

i didnt know woodworking is also about tool collecting...huhu...

[violaine]

hey guys,

sorry to hijack this thread by asking too many questions...if the admins feel that I need to make a separate thread for these questions then id be glad to make one and transfer all your thoughts there..

anyhoo, here are they...

firstly, id like to ask if the two ends of the jig fits snugly to their slots? mine is somewhat deflected and there is some effort to push it into their slots (but this is no big deal..), once they are in place, I can tighten the microadjust wheel with no hassle.. I took a photo and I hope it shows to you the problem.


another thing, like I asked before, my stone is going up and down a millimeter or two while running..i tried to sharpen partly a 1/2 chisel with nicks and again I took a photo of the edge and Id like to show you that the sharpening is at an angle...maybe because the stone is not yet trued? maybe so...


well those are just two questions...

here are some pictures of my machine and showing you the state of the leather strop when I received it...
here with a light shone with its fibers lifted due to dryness from disuse (or from hibernating for a long time from the original owner)...(I learned many things about how not to saturate the leather with oil in one thread...)

[violaine]

I am also showing here the state of the stone...

I shone a light on one edge and you will notice a shallow concavity on the center of the stone.


I changed the angle of the lens and we can see here some grooves on the surface of the stone..i guess this really needs some truing...


and finally, here is my square edge jig..the older version.

[Herman Trivilino]

Thanks for the great pictures Violain.  Your square edge jig is the same as mine.  I've never been able to get a square end on a chisel using that jig on an out-of-true grindstone, either.

IIRC you mentioned that this grindstone has a full diameter of almost 250 mm.  Looking at those photo's, I'd say this grindstone has never seen a truing tool.  It may have been used as a dry grinder, too, although that would have been a flop!  Whoever had this machine did not have the respect usually seen in a bonafide purchaser.

[violaine]

Hi Herman,

your inputs although short in form and in bursts are pregnant with an experienced user ideas.

well yes, I asked many times from the previous owner if it came with some other accessory...one thing that is going to surprise you though, I asked him again one more time today and he told me it was given as a gift by an American expat who now lives in the States for good..so practically, this guy from whom I bought the tool had no real idea of how it operates..you were absolutely right that perhaps 100% of the time, the stone was used dry as evidenced by the ridges on the surface.

thanks..

until the truing tool has arrived, i have no more questions to raise at the moment..

[Herman Trivilino]

Thanks.  I forgot to mention that your honing wheel looks like it's toast.  Was it left somewhere very hot?  Like in an attic during a long summer somewhere?  You may have to buy a new one of those as well.  Oh, and don't forget the tube of honing paste.

[violaine]

Toasted? oh no..how can you tell?

buying a new stone is like buying a new machine! ; (

[Jeff Farris]

Your honing wheel is just fine. The lighting makes it look more dramatic than it really is. Just apply some compound and go to work.  You do need to true your grindstone, though.

[Herman Trivilino]

Toasted? oh no..how can you tell?

buying a new stone is like buying a new machine! ; (

Not the grindstone, the honing wheel.  But Jeff says it's fine so I'd just follow his advice.

You will need that honing compound.  http://tormek.com/international/en/accessories/other-accessories/pa-70-honing-compound/.

[Stickan]

The honingwheel needs some oil I guess, and as Herman writes, some compound 

[violaine]

ah yes , the honing wheel it is...

i have a Norton sharpening oil..would this be ok for the leather strop wheel?

together with the truing tool, i have ordered the honing paste.

thanks!