New angle jig KS-123

[cbwx34]

(In fact, I'm not sure the spring is needed all that much.)

It may not be entirely needed, but I like that it is there.  It pulls the angled section into the blade.

I don't disagree.

What I did prior to answering earlier was tighten the "Knob for locking Protrusion" enough so that the spring didn't have any affect, and found that I could manipulate the jig quite well without the spring's influence.  But it is a convenient feature.

Oh yes, totally agree with this.  Once locked in place the spring has zero impact.

Not quite what I meant... I just tightened it enough to negate the spring, I could still slide protrusion piece back and forth to set the distance, without the spring doing anything... then tightened it down.

[tcsharpen]

Regarding accuracy of the KS-123, my first post in this thread addressed my simple test and observed results. The Calcapp calculated USB height was just .1mm different than was set with the KS-123 and measured with an inexpensive digital caliper.  I think that is within measurement error and accuracy of my caliper.

[tcsharpen]

(In fact, I'm not sure the spring is needed all that much.)

It may not be entirely needed, but I like that it is there.  It pulls the angled section into the blade.

I don't disagree.

What I did prior to answering earlier was tighten the "Knob for locking Protrusion" enough so that the spring didn't have any affect, and found that I could manipulate the jig quite well without the spring's influence.  But it is a convenient feature.

Oh yes, totally agree with this.  Once locked in place the spring has zero impact.

Not quite what I meant... I just tightened it enough to negate the spring, I could still slide protrusion piece back and forth to set the distance, without the spring doing anything... then tightened it down.

Sure, the key point being you negated the spring, whether locked tight or providing just the right amount of friction.

[Swemek]

This was a disappointment. After biting the bullet and getting MB-102, a second USB and the KS-123, which was out of stock in almost every shop here in Sweden, only to find out that the angle meter was delivered without the "retractable part".

Does this render the meter useless, or can I use it somehow?

Is the "retractable part" the spring?  (Can't tell for sure on the diagram.) Anyway, I'd let Tormek support know right away... to get a replacement, and also let them know if it's a production issue.  (Might check the box closely and see if it's in there.)

If it is the spring, I'd say yes, in the interim you can still use it, just slide it forward with with your thumb/finger.  Once you set the "protrusion" it's not needed anyway.  (In fact, I'm not sure the spring is needed all that much.)

No actually the whole sliding plastic thing with a knob and the spring.

I was so frustrated yesterday so i did some reverse engineering and build the part myself. It works, the only thing missing is the spring.

Of course i have no way to check how reliable it is but i get perfect fit when checking with the old angle meter.

Some pics:
Barbord
Styrbord

[Swemek]

I called Tormek and they will send me a new one today. That is what i call (great) SUPPORT.

[cbwx34]

No actually the whole sliding plastic thing with a knob and the spring.

I was so frustrated yesterday so i did some reverse engineering and build the part myself. It works, the only thing missing is the spring.

Of course i have no way to check how reliable it is but i get perfect fit when checking with the old angle meter.

Some pics:
Barbord
Styrbord

Yikes.  Yeah I guess that wasn't accidentally left in the box. 

Looks like you came up with a good temporary solution.  Congrats on the temporary solve! 

[Swemek]

No actually the whole sliding plastic thing with a knob and the spring.

I was so frustrated yesterday so i did some reverse engineering and build the part myself. It works, the only thing missing is the spring.

Of course i have no way to check how reliable it is but i get perfect fit when checking with the old angle meter.

Some pics:
Barbord
Styrbord

Yikes.  Yeah I guess that wasn't accidentally left in the box. 

Looks like you came up with a good temporary solution.  Congrats on the temporary solve! 

Thanks, my frustration was channeled that way. And it does offer repeatability, but 15.5 degrees per side might be 15 degrees.

[cbwx34]

Thanks, my frustration was channeled that way. And it does offer repeatability, but 15.5 degrees per side might be 15 degrees.

You could always check it against a calculator app, but if you're within 1/2 a degree making that from, I'm guessing pictures? Hats off.  I wouldn't worry about it.

(That level of accuracy is a bit overhyped anyway.)

[RickKrung]

For anyone in the Portland, Oregon area, Woodcrafters, in NE Portland, have a couple more of these jigs in stock. I picked one up and cancelled my order with Sharpening Supplies (They said they were going to ship sometime next week.)

[John Hancock Sr]

The suppliers in Australia who are showing it are al either Out Of Stock, or Pre-Order. So clearly the Australian stock is still on its way.

[Swemek]

Thanks, my frustration was channeled that way. And it does offer repeatability, but 15.5 degrees per side might be 15 degrees.

You could always check it against a calculator app, but if you're within 1/2 a degree making that from, I'm guessing pictures? Hats off.  I wouldn't worry about it.

(That level of accuracy is a bit overhyped anyway.)

To be honest, I was totally wrong about repeatability. It turned out to be far off on smaller pocket knifes. Anyhow I'm expecting a new one today.

[darita]

Boy, has this jig simplified my setup process. I'm thrilled with the elimination of formulas and measurements. This thing is genius.

[tgbto]

For those who have experience with this jig : how easy is it to replicate a protrusion distance with it along with a SVM jig ? Simple enough or is it easier to take a separate measurement using the wood-block method ?

Thanks !

[cbwx34]

For those who have experience with this jig : how easy is it to replicate a protrusion distance with it along with a SVM jig ? Simple enough or is it easier to take a separate measurement using the wood-block method ?

Thanks !

There's no difference in using the KJ vs the SVM jig to set up the KS-123.

BTW, for a bit of trivia, the KS handles a Projection Distance of 122-158 mm.

[tgbto]

There's no difference in using the KJ vs the SVM jig to set up the KS-123.

BTW, for a bit of trivia, the KS handles a Projection Distance of 122-158 mm.

I understand that ^^

I might not have been clear enough : I was thinking of how when you set the whole thingamajig up with a given protrusion distance, and you want to use the adjustability of the SVM to setup another knife for the same sharpening angle. Ie not adjust the jig to the second knife then adjust USB, but rather use the SVM handle to adjust the protrusion distance to match that of the first knife without touching the USB. Does it make sense ?