Differential bevels

[RickKrung]

I am interested in the eccentric bushing -and also the SVM45 clamping knob modification that jvh has made.
I would imagine that the bushing must be custom machined.
Does the large knob modification serve any particular purpose or offer any advantage over the factory model?
Thanks

Scotty,  Could you post a link to the SVM-45 large knob mod that you refer to, please?  I looked through (scanned, didn't read everything) all of jvh posted and didn't find it. 

Thanks,

Rick

[Scotty]

I will try.
Not real computer savvy

Re: Differential bevels
« Reply #13 on: Today at 05:13:58 am »
Quote
Quote from: jvh on April 16, 2020, 08:54:46 pm
Hello,

I use this procedure to approximately center the knife in the jig and then I make fine adjustment with eccentric bushing.

Very rarely (really thick knives) is necessary to use a shim between the blade and the jig. Also it's possible to change protrusion length with adjustable stop to get the same angle on both sides of the knife when flipping the jig, but it's not very comfortable.

You can modify knife jigs according to Knife Grinder's methods but you get a dedicated solution for a specific knife thickness. I didn't go this way, so now I have four universal SVM-45 jigs and I can grind more knives on one wheel, then change to another and continue...

[RickKrung]

I will try.
Not real computer savvy

Re: Differential bevels
« Reply #13 on: Today at 05:13:58 am »
Quote
Quote from: jvh on April 16, 2020, 08:54:46 pm
Hello,

I use this procedure (no link here, just bolding for clarity) to approximately center the knife in the jig and ...snip...

Hello,

I use this procedure (this is the link to that procedure) to approximately center the knife in the jig and then ...snip...
jvh

Thanks for clarifying, Scotty.  Unfortunately, what you are referring to appears to me to be a procedure for centering the knife in the jig, NOT a modification to the adjustable stop.  The latter is what I thought you were referring to, which was the interest in my question.  Not that I'm interested in modifying my adjustable stops, just wanted to be clear if there were some mod that I wasn't aware of. 

Rick

[Scotty]

Roger that.

[RichColvin]

I am interested in the eccentric bushing -and also the SVM45 clamping knob modification that jvh has made.
I would imagine that the bushing must be custom machined.
Does the large knob modification serve any particular purpose or offer any advantage over the factory model?
Thanks

Here is more information ==> https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3918.msg26605#msg26605

[Victor4159]

Scotty, I'm able to sharpen all of my knives on an SG-45 "as-is" and an SG-45 with 0.5mm removed from the static side of the clamp.  I got the info from KG's website, and it's the 2nd one in their jigs with milled static clamps.  I only sharpen my knives and some friend's knives, but I've never had nor been given a knife thicker than 3.3 mm at the spine to sharpen.  The 2 with the thickest spines are a Benchmade AFO II at 3.25 mm and a Global Cleaver at 3.18 mm.  I sharpen every knife from 2.3 mm to 3.3 mm using the one modified SG-45.  Perhaps you can get a price to have one jig milled.  I spent about $10-12 bucks for a spark plug gap tool that has 32 different gap sizes; the "shims" work great for maintaining identical bevels on both sides of the blade. I also use the shims on both sides of the jig from the jig towards the knife tip when sharpening filet knives that aren't wide enough to accommodate the large jig as the thicker shims work well for keeping thin knife blades from flexing due to the pressure against the stone. 

I had a machinist/casual friend modify the above SG-45 and also make me an FVB though, while he does excellent work, he's damned proud of it! I'll call him to get the price for the jig only, and I'm also getting some quotes from another (good) friend/machinist, and I'll get a jig quote from him as well.  If you email me, I will send you the prices I receive if you would like to compare prices from a different location (I'm in New Orleans, LA USA).     

Victor - vic@vcenvironmental.com

[jvh]

I've used the eccentric bushing approach.  Works well.

Rich

Thanks for feedback. An ounce of practice is generally worth more than a ton of theory.

I would imagine that the bushing must be custom machined.
Does the large knob modification serve any particular purpose or offer any advantage over the factory model?

The first test piece I made only with a drill and screw tap. The lathe is better for accuracy, of course.
There is no knob modification.

Here is more information ==> https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3918.msg26605#msg26605

Mentioned version has outside diameter 15.3 mm which sometimes is not enough if the initial clamping is not accurate. I would choose a larger outside diameter for new bushing now - something between 16 to 18 mm, which gives larger setting range.

I'm able to sharpen all of my knives on an SG-45 "as-is" and an SG-45 with 0.5mm removed from the static side of the clamp.  I got the info from KG's website, and it's the 2nd one in their jigs with milled static clamps.  I only sharpen my knives and some friend's knives, but I've never had nor been given a knife thicker than 3.3 mm at the spine to sharpen.  The 2 with the thickest spines are a Benchmade AFO II at 3.25 mm and a Global Cleaver at 3.18 mm.  I sharpen every knife from 2.3 mm to 3.3 mm using the one modified SG-45.  Perhaps you can get a price to have one jig milled.  I spent about $10-12 bucks for a spark plug gap tool that has 32 different gap sizes; the "shims" work great for maintaining identical bevels on both sides of the blade. I also use the shims on both sides of the jig from the jig towards the knife tip when sharpening filet knives that aren't wide enough to accommodate the large jig as the thicker shims work well for keeping thin knife blades from flexing due to the pressure against the stone.

It's about choice, time and comfort.
Once again - shims are usable but not user friendly at all for me. You have to measure blade thickness, choose the right shims, insert them to the jig and it takes more time. If you have a blade with non-parallel sides (eg. full flat grind) you are in problem with shims, because bottom jaw of the SVM-45 jig is fixed and parallel with jig axis. If you have a knife with narrow blade you have problem with shims again because of problematic insertion and clamping. Machining of present jigs it's just not good choice for me.


jvh