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#21
Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Question
Last post by Dan - December 18, 2025, 09:35:40 AMHello,
if you had taken some time too read the Tormek site you would understand what exactly is included with whatever machine. They are pretty clear, in my opinion.
https://tormek.com/en/products/sharpening-machines/tormek-t-8-custom#h-Includedinthebox
https://tormek.com/en/products/sharpening-machines/tormek-t-8-original#h-Includedinthebox
The stone grader is included with the T-8 original. You decided to buy the T-8 Custom....
If someone wants a new wheel to replace a worn out wheel there is no point in including another wheel dresser.
In any case, the stone is only about 30-40$ if you want it.
You do realise that you will also need the TT-50 wheel dresser to keep the SG-250 wheel true !!
Danny
if you had taken some time too read the Tormek site you would understand what exactly is included with whatever machine. They are pretty clear, in my opinion.
https://tormek.com/en/products/sharpening-machines/tormek-t-8-custom#h-Includedinthebox
https://tormek.com/en/products/sharpening-machines/tormek-t-8-original#h-Includedinthebox
The stone grader is included with the T-8 original. You decided to buy the T-8 Custom....
If someone wants a new wheel to replace a worn out wheel there is no point in including another wheel dresser.
In any case, the stone is only about 30-40$ if you want it.
You do realise that you will also need the TT-50 wheel dresser to keep the SG-250 wheel true !!
Danny
#22
Knife Sharpening / SG-250 Question
Last post by Rossy66 - December 18, 2025, 02:42:14 AMSo, I ordered the SG-250 so I can sharpen scissors and it didn't come with the stone grader?
If it's true, and the SG-250 does not include the stone grader, I have to say I am incredibly disappointed in Tormek. Why on earth would I buy a stone who's main feature is that It can change grits from course to fine but they don't supply the tool to do it? I am regretting more and more in investing in this company. Not a happy person if this is true and I have to go and order the stone grader.
If it's true, and the SG-250 does not include the stone grader, I have to say I am incredibly disappointed in Tormek. Why on earth would I buy a stone who's main feature is that It can change grits from course to fine but they don't supply the tool to do it? I am regretting more and more in investing in this company. Not a happy person if this is true and I have to go and order the stone grader.
#23
General Tormek Questions / Re: Knife Steel Nerds
Last post by Brock O Lee - December 18, 2025, 02:32:03 AMA bit of background...
Larrin Thomas is a well-known PhD metallugist in the knife community. His father is Devin Thomas (known for his Damascus and pattern-welded forged steels). I know he is a member on Bladeforums and the Spyderco forum.
Larrin developed a few new steels in recent years, one of which was Magnacut. He worked with the USA foundry Crucible Steel and Niagra Speciality Metals to develop and bring CPM-Magnacut to the market. It is produced using a particle metallurgy approach. It's a high vanadium stainless steel, specifically developed for knife blades. It is popular for its unique balance of properties (corrosion resistance, wear resistance and toughness), and relatively high attainable hardness. It has similar properties to carbon tool steels (like CPM-4V), but is also very corrosion resistant at the same time, which is quite unique.
He also created other steels like Procut and CPM-MagnaMax. Both of these are quite new, and not widely available yet, as far as I know.
Knife Steel Nerds is his blog. He wrote a few books, which were well received. He knows his stuff. 👍
Larrin Thomas is a well-known PhD metallugist in the knife community. His father is Devin Thomas (known for his Damascus and pattern-welded forged steels). I know he is a member on Bladeforums and the Spyderco forum.
Larrin developed a few new steels in recent years, one of which was Magnacut. He worked with the USA foundry Crucible Steel and Niagra Speciality Metals to develop and bring CPM-Magnacut to the market. It is produced using a particle metallurgy approach. It's a high vanadium stainless steel, specifically developed for knife blades. It is popular for its unique balance of properties (corrosion resistance, wear resistance and toughness), and relatively high attainable hardness. It has similar properties to carbon tool steels (like CPM-4V), but is also very corrosion resistant at the same time, which is quite unique.
He also created other steels like Procut and CPM-MagnaMax. Both of these are quite new, and not widely available yet, as far as I know.
Knife Steel Nerds is his blog. He wrote a few books, which were well received. He knows his stuff. 👍
#24
Knife Sharpening / Re: Did I make a mistake?
Last post by John_B - December 17, 2025, 09:29:19 PMQuote from: tgbto on December 17, 2025, 08:05:49 AMQuote from: John_B on December 06, 2025, 09:00:22 PMa double bevel with each side at a unique angle.
I have several-plus japanese knives, but none is of that type. I own some with the same angle on both sides but sharpened assymetrically : the bevel on the left side is much smaller than on the right side. In order to keep them this way, I sharpen about 4 strokes on the wide side, one on the thin side. They have a very thin yet very sturdy blade, and are sharpened around 12.5dps. Edge retention is amazing.Quote from: BPalv on December 16, 2025, 06:02:03 PMOne of these days I need to convert this to a data sheet for easy access.
This is one of the reasons I love TormekCalc so much : each knife has its own entry so you can select it with a single click then just set the right distances.
Here is an article that discusses what I was describing. I think that since this was written the availability of symmetrical Japanese knives has increased dramatically for the Western market.
https://japaneseknifesharpening.blogspot.com/2012/03/asymmetry-real-deal.html
#25
Knife Sharpening / Re: Did I make a mistake?
Last post by tgbto - December 17, 2025, 08:05:49 AMQuote from: John_B on December 06, 2025, 09:00:22 PMa double bevel with each side at a unique angle.
I have several-plus japanese knives, but none is of that type. I own some with the same angle on both sides but sharpened assymetrically : the bevel on the left side is much smaller than on the right side. In order to keep them this way, I sharpen about 4 strokes on the wide side, one on the thin side. They have a very thin yet very sturdy blade, and are sharpened around 12.5dps. Edge retention is amazing.
Quote from: BPalv on December 16, 2025, 06:02:03 PMOne of these days I need to convert this to a data sheet for easy access.
This is one of the reasons I love TormekCalc so much : each knife has its own entry so you can select it with a single click then just set the right distances.
#26
Knife Sharpening / Re: Did I make a mistake?
Last post by BPalv - December 16, 2025, 06:02:03 PMQuote from: John_B on December 06, 2025, 09:00:22 PMAs I am sure you are aware Japanese knives are made with several styles of bevel. Single bevel, Western double bevel and a double bevel with each side at a unique angle. They may also come with smaller bevel angle than many western knives. Being left handed I have stuck with western style double bevel with my Japanese knives. Also try and develop a light touch with the diamond wheel as it cuts quicker than the SG-250. I also like to use a jeweler's loupe to inspect the entire knife edge. You will often find areas that were missed in your initial passes due to prior poor sharpening practices.
I maintain a small concierge sharpening business with limited customers as I don't want it to turn into a job. One thing I have done is create a notebook with a section for each customers knives. I include sharpening angle, jig projection length for next time and any reprofiling or repair that I need to do.
My situation is very similar. Notebook with grind grits, bevel angle, projection length and target USB height. I include the same honing information and sharpening results as measured by a BESS. Makes the next time a tad easier. One of these days I need to convert this to a data sheet for easy access.
#27
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Marble...
Last post by kwakster - December 15, 2025, 05:39:15 PMIn this case no electrolysis or naval yelly was used.
In general (also with this particular knife) i start with sanding the ricasso & back of the (disassembled) blade with 800 grit & WD40, this to see where it gets me.
Often these area's are not too damaged and there is no need to get any coarser, while at the same time it's coarse enough to remove blackness / superficial rust.
In general (also with this particular knife) i start with sanding the ricasso & back of the (disassembled) blade with 800 grit & WD40, this to see where it gets me.
Often these area's are not too damaged and there is no need to get any coarser, while at the same time it's coarse enough to remove blackness / superficial rust.
#28
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Marble...
Last post by RichColvin - December 15, 2025, 05:09:21 PMI was more asking how you restored the sides of the knife (i.e., did you use electrolysis or naval jelly)?
#29
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Vintag...
Last post by kwakster - December 15, 2025, 03:09:03 PMWith some prectice, a pinch of elbow grease, and of course my Tormek T7 to renew the slightly hollow scandi grind.
My T7 is fitted with an SB-250 Blackstone, which i use mostly to put factory-like edges on various stainless steel knives.
However, for sharpening & especially grinding wider scandi bevels on lower alloy carbon steels it is relatively slow.
The standard SG-250 stone would have been a much better/faster choice, but i do not own one.
My T7 is fitted with an SB-250 Blackstone, which i use mostly to put factory-like edges on various stainless steel knives.
However, for sharpening & especially grinding wider scandi bevels on lower alloy carbon steels it is relatively slow.
The standard SG-250 stone would have been a much better/faster choice, but i do not own one.
#30
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Marble...
Last post by kwakster - December 15, 2025, 02:02:33 PMMy first step is always to grind the old edge flat; if that is just blunt from slow wear i only use a hard silicon carbide bench stone, for instance the Tormek stone grader.
But when there is more serious damage (like in this Woodcraft) i use my trusty Tormek T7 to grind the old edge flat on the side of the stone.
This is not only about removing existing edge damage, it's also about removing fatigued steel and preparing the blade so the new apex will be made from fresh steel only.
This noticeably enhances the longevity of the new edge.
Next step is to recreate the full convex blade shape, and in this case i used 400 grit wet & dry paper (black silicon carbide) clamped on an old piece of fiber reinforced rubber conveyor belt.
As a lubricant i used WD-40 oil.
The steel in these old Woodcraft knives is possibly 52100, but probably 1095, which had a very good heat treatment & a guesstimated hardness of ~60 HRC, but it doesn't have a high wear resistance, which makes 400 grit wet & dry very effective for this purpose.
BTW: i don't grind to a burr with this 400 grit, but just to the point where the edge no longer reflects light.
Creating a burr is done with the next step, which is 800 grit wet & dry used in the same way as the 400 grit.
More grits are generally not needed imo, as silicon carbide grit is friable, and on wet & dry paper the layer is only 1 grain thick, so no new grits become available during sharpening.
Instead it just gets progressively finer & finer in use, which gives me the opportunity to tailor the "toothyness" of the new apex with only this 800 grit.
If i create a burr early on the 800 grit that apex will be more toothy than when i create a burr after longer use, and on hunting knives like these i prefer a bit toothy edge.
I don't hunt, but i do sharpen various hunting knives for people who do.
But when there is more serious damage (like in this Woodcraft) i use my trusty Tormek T7 to grind the old edge flat on the side of the stone.
This is not only about removing existing edge damage, it's also about removing fatigued steel and preparing the blade so the new apex will be made from fresh steel only.
This noticeably enhances the longevity of the new edge.
Next step is to recreate the full convex blade shape, and in this case i used 400 grit wet & dry paper (black silicon carbide) clamped on an old piece of fiber reinforced rubber conveyor belt.
As a lubricant i used WD-40 oil.
The steel in these old Woodcraft knives is possibly 52100, but probably 1095, which had a very good heat treatment & a guesstimated hardness of ~60 HRC, but it doesn't have a high wear resistance, which makes 400 grit wet & dry very effective for this purpose.
BTW: i don't grind to a burr with this 400 grit, but just to the point where the edge no longer reflects light.
Creating a burr is done with the next step, which is 800 grit wet & dry used in the same way as the 400 grit.
More grits are generally not needed imo, as silicon carbide grit is friable, and on wet & dry paper the layer is only 1 grain thick, so no new grits become available during sharpening.
Instead it just gets progressively finer & finer in use, which gives me the opportunity to tailor the "toothyness" of the new apex with only this 800 grit.
If i create a burr early on the 800 grit that apex will be more toothy than when i create a burr after longer use, and on hunting knives like these i prefer a bit toothy edge.
I don't hunt, but i do sharpen various hunting knives for people who do.