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#21
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Marble...
Last post by kwakster - December 15, 2025, 02:02:33 PMMy first step is always to grind the old edge flat; if that is just blunt from slow wear i only use a hard silicon carbide bench stone, for instance the Tormek stone grader.
But when there is more serious damage (like in this Woodcraft) i use my trusty Tormek T7 to grind the old edge flat on the side of the stone.
This is not only about removing existing edge damage, it's also about removing fatigued steel and preparing the blade so the new apex will be made from fresh steel only.
This noticeably enhances the longevity of the new edge.
Next step is to recreate the full convex blade shape, and in this case i used 400 grit wet & dry paper (black silicon carbide) clamped on an old piece of fiber reinforced rubber conveyor belt.
As a lubricant i used WD-40 oil.
The steel in these old Woodcraft knives is possibly 52100, but probably 1095, which had a very good heat treatment & a guesstimated hardness of ~60 HRC, but it doesn't have a high wear resistance, which makes 400 grit wet & dry very effective for this purpose.
BTW: i don't grind to a burr with this 400 grit, but just to the point where the edge no longer reflects light.
Creating a burr is done with the next step, which is 800 grit wet & dry used in the same way as the 400 grit.
More grits are generally not needed imo, as silicon carbide grit is friable, and on wet & dry paper the layer is only 1 grain thick, so no new grits become available during sharpening.
Instead it just gets progressively finer & finer in use, which gives me the opportunity to tailor the "toothyness" of the new apex with only this 800 grit.
If i create a burr early on the 800 grit that apex will be more toothy than when i create a burr after longer use, and on hunting knives like these i prefer a bit toothy edge.
I don't hunt, but i do sharpen various hunting knives for people who do.
But when there is more serious damage (like in this Woodcraft) i use my trusty Tormek T7 to grind the old edge flat on the side of the stone.
This is not only about removing existing edge damage, it's also about removing fatigued steel and preparing the blade so the new apex will be made from fresh steel only.
This noticeably enhances the longevity of the new edge.
Next step is to recreate the full convex blade shape, and in this case i used 400 grit wet & dry paper (black silicon carbide) clamped on an old piece of fiber reinforced rubber conveyor belt.
As a lubricant i used WD-40 oil.
The steel in these old Woodcraft knives is possibly 52100, but probably 1095, which had a very good heat treatment & a guesstimated hardness of ~60 HRC, but it doesn't have a high wear resistance, which makes 400 grit wet & dry very effective for this purpose.
BTW: i don't grind to a burr with this 400 grit, but just to the point where the edge no longer reflects light.
Creating a burr is done with the next step, which is 800 grit wet & dry used in the same way as the 400 grit.
More grits are generally not needed imo, as silicon carbide grit is friable, and on wet & dry paper the layer is only 1 grain thick, so no new grits become available during sharpening.
Instead it just gets progressively finer & finer in use, which gives me the opportunity to tailor the "toothyness" of the new apex with only this 800 grit.
If i create a burr early on the 800 grit that apex will be more toothy than when i create a burr after longer use, and on hunting knives like these i prefer a bit toothy edge.
I don't hunt, but i do sharpen various hunting knives for people who do.
#22
Scissors Sharpening / Re: Anouther question about sc...
Last post by Royale - December 15, 2025, 01:24:34 PMI'm waiting for my 1x30 belt sander to supplement my bench polisher.
I plan to use it for deep scratch removal, before blending everything together with my bench polisher and radial bristle discs/muslin wheels. (I do it because I have an optional component of knife polishing, in addition to my sharpening package)
In future, I plan to use the belt sander to do heavy reprofiling/material removal and polishing, but still use my Tormek T8 for sharpening. My business selling point is precision edges, and not speed + quantity at low-low prices.
It's really your call on how you plan to position your sharpening business. What I can say, is if you position yourself similarly to the majority businesses in your area, then you run a tough race where you've started very late, and everyone races to the bottom. But if you position yourself differently (like how I provide precision sharpening, repairs and refurbishing) then you may very well end up running a race where there's much fewer people. If you're trusted by people as a good sharpener, then nobody will care about price.
I plan to use it for deep scratch removal, before blending everything together with my bench polisher and radial bristle discs/muslin wheels. (I do it because I have an optional component of knife polishing, in addition to my sharpening package)
In future, I plan to use the belt sander to do heavy reprofiling/material removal and polishing, but still use my Tormek T8 for sharpening. My business selling point is precision edges, and not speed + quantity at low-low prices.
It's really your call on how you plan to position your sharpening business. What I can say, is if you position yourself similarly to the majority businesses in your area, then you run a tough race where you've started very late, and everyone races to the bottom. But if you position yourself differently (like how I provide precision sharpening, repairs and refurbishing) then you may very well end up running a race where there's much fewer people. If you're trusted by people as a good sharpener, then nobody will care about price.
#23
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Vintag...
Last post by Rossy66 - December 15, 2025, 11:28:34 AMAmazing work, how did you achieve that result. 
#24
Scissors Sharpening / Re: Anouther question about sc...
Last post by Rossy66 - December 15, 2025, 11:24:08 AMSo, I ordered the SG-250 after watching a few more videos, $450 for the DE-250 is too much of an investment to possibly ruin it and since I can't seem to get a straight answer , I'm just not willing to take a chance. I am however looking at buying a 1x30 system and returning all my Tormek stuff.
#25
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Marble...
Last post by RichColvin - December 15, 2025, 12:31:32 AMWhat process did you use to restore the blade?
#26
Knife Sharpening / Re: KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by Sir Amwell - December 15, 2025, 12:20:46 AMSurely the answer here is to use the tried and tested 'increase the spine thickness by adding layers of tape to the desired tolerances' which I think is between 2 and 3 mm?
#27
Knife Sharpening / Re: KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by Ken S - December 14, 2025, 11:28:28 PMI sharpen only my own knives. The only thin knife I own is the Henckels boning knife which is part of the set I purchased in 1990. My wife and I eat very little fish, so I have never added a fillet knife.
I have SVM 100 and 140 jigs, as well as a KJ-140. My boning knife is not long enough for either 140 jig. In hindsight, I would not purchase either of the long knife jigs, although I like the regular knife jigs.
Ken
I have SVM 100 and 140 jigs, as well as a KJ-140. My boning knife is not long enough for either 140 jig. In hindsight, I would not purchase either of the long knife jigs, although I like the regular knife jigs.
Ken
#28
Knife Sharpening / Re: KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by HaioPaio - December 14, 2025, 08:51:37 PMQuote from: Kenshiro_Joestar on December 13, 2025, 07:52:14 PMwhile the blade is 0,6 mm thick.If I had known that, I wouldn't have posted.
I'm glad you found a solution that meets your needs. I have never sharpened a knife with a spine thickness of 0.6 mm, so I can't really contribute a solution.
Personally, I believe that the jig for long knives is not designed to support extremely thin blades. I haven't seen a specified lower limit for suitable spine thickness, but it seems obvious that sharpening something as thin as a piece of aluminum foil would be difficult to work with the setup.
That said, I've never tried it myself, and I don't know the practical limits.
#29
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Marble...
Last post by Ken S - December 14, 2025, 07:44:59 PMNicely done, Kwakster!
Ken
Ken
#30
Knife Sharpening / Re: Tormek Marker
Last post by Ken S - December 14, 2025, 07:43:18 PMI would like to interject my thoughts about what is included and what is not included with various Tormek models. I will use the T4 as an illustration. The balance is between the most substantial machine and the final price. I have always thought the T4 is more than a hobby machine. When it was first introduced, the only three Tormek wheels for it were the SG and the SJ. The diamond wheels were not added until several years later. I have always thought that the TT-50 should have been included, although I realize that would have increased the price substantially. I also replaced the plastic EZY Lock nut with the metal nut issued with the T8 and the plain nut with the quick release as on the T8. These make the T4 a more efficient heavy duty machine, although at higher cost.
I look at any Tormek as a long term investment. I do not factor in cost"savings" when comparing models. In the long run, I believe the more practical machine is the best value.
Ken
I look at any Tormek as a long term investment. I do not factor in cost"savings" when comparing models. In the long run, I believe the more practical machine is the best value.
Ken