- Welcome to Tormek Community Forum.
News:
Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.
www.tormek.com
Recent posts
#21
General Tormek Questions / Re: Should I buy the LA-220 ev...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - February 15, 2026, 07:53:41 AMThe composite wheel is a lower grit and will not leave as fine an edge as the leather wheel. On the other hand honing on the composite wheel will be faster that on the leather wheel. As for customer experience it all depends as they say. The composite wheel will leave a toothier edge and for many operations will cut more easily as a result. For very fine and precise "food craft" even the leather wheel will leave too coarse an edge.
For general sharpening your average kitchen knife the composite wheel will be fine.
For general sharpening your average kitchen knife the composite wheel will be fine.
#22
General Tormek Questions / Re: Some Questions about my ne...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - February 15, 2026, 07:47:28 AMQuote from: carlhanger on February 14, 2026, 11:53:33 AMnew drive wheel seems of much higher quality than the old oneYes. They upgraded it significantly. The old plastic wheel would crack over the years.
#23
Knife Sharpening / Re: Dc-250 - Df-250 - Sg-250?
Last post by Royale - February 15, 2026, 05:29:35 AMFrom my personal experience with my Tormek T8... I see the matter in terms of matching the abrasive to the steel type.
For cheap and soft steels with low carbide content, I use the SG-250 for speed.
For harder steels alloyed with more carbides, I still use the SG-250 for reprofiling (because at this stage I'm not bothered with carbide tear/fall out), but all follow up sharpening is done with diamond grindstones (DF-250, DE-250) because I want to cut through both the supporting ferrite matrix and carbides together. Takes a longer time, but often a "Do it good, do it once" type of situation.
Long story short, seeing the dimension of grit size only, may leave you missing out on a bigger part of the workflow.
Hope that made sense.
For cheap and soft steels with low carbide content, I use the SG-250 for speed.
For harder steels alloyed with more carbides, I still use the SG-250 for reprofiling (because at this stage I'm not bothered with carbide tear/fall out), but all follow up sharpening is done with diamond grindstones (DF-250, DE-250) because I want to cut through both the supporting ferrite matrix and carbides together. Takes a longer time, but often a "Do it good, do it once" type of situation.
Long story short, seeing the dimension of grit size only, may leave you missing out on a bigger part of the workflow.
Hope that made sense.
#24
General Tormek Questions / USB sticking in MB-102
Last post by Rossy66 - February 15, 2026, 05:18:43 AMI have started using my new MB-102 to sharpen chisels on the side and honing and it seems to be sticking when I turn the fine adjustment wheel. The wheel gets harder to turn after a few rotations and then stops and I can't raise the USB. If I lift the usb up and out of the MB-102 then reinsert it, it seems to work for a few turns and then seems to become difficult to turn the adjustment wheel again.
Does any one have any suggestions?
?
Does any one have any suggestions?
?
#25
Knife Sharpening / Re: Noobie Advice About Stones
Last post by Dulcmrman - February 15, 2026, 01:20:24 AMToday I made my first attempt at sharpening a knife on my new-to-me T-3 with the well-worn smaller diameter SG-200. I chose an old, mistreated military K-bar knife that I've misused over the years. It had a number of small chips in the blade and was not much sharper than a screwdriver.
I used the KS-123 angle setter to set a 20 degree angle and had at it. In just a few minutes all of the chips were gone and the edge began to look pretty good. Unfortunately, I discovered that the small stone diameter resulted in the knife handle bumping against the honing wheel, preventing me from obtaining the same bevel on both sides of the blade.
I stopped sharpening and I am now awaiting my new SG-200 stone which should arrive this coming week. I believe that I will be able to get symmetric edges on the blade after I have the larger diameter new stone.
To say that I am thrilled with my first foray into Tormek-world would be an understatement. The work I did today on my T-3 took minutes and would have taken hours on my water stones. I am hooked!
I will continue to practice on my older knives to improve my technique before moving on to maintaining my precious favorites in the kitchen.
Best regards,
Dennis
I used the KS-123 angle setter to set a 20 degree angle and had at it. In just a few minutes all of the chips were gone and the edge began to look pretty good. Unfortunately, I discovered that the small stone diameter resulted in the knife handle bumping against the honing wheel, preventing me from obtaining the same bevel on both sides of the blade.
I stopped sharpening and I am now awaiting my new SG-200 stone which should arrive this coming week. I believe that I will be able to get symmetric edges on the blade after I have the larger diameter new stone.
To say that I am thrilled with my first foray into Tormek-world would be an understatement. The work I did today on my T-3 took minutes and would have taken hours on my water stones. I am hooked!
I will continue to practice on my older knives to improve my technique before moving on to maintaining my precious favorites in the kitchen.
Best regards,
Dennis
#26
Knife Sharpening / Re: Dc-250 - Df-250 - Sg-250?
Last post by John_B - February 14, 2026, 09:52:55 PMI think many users worry unnecessarily about consuming the SG-250. When I have knives that need more material removed I do not hesitate in using the coarse side of the grading stone. I also in the camp that trues the stone fairly often rather than letting it go and removing a lot of material less often. Unless you are using a dial indicator to measure runout it is often hard to detect an out of round condition.
When chasing the sharpest edge I personally look at whose knife it is that I am sharpening. It is not too difficult to obtain an edge that is better than almost every out of the box knife. This can be achieved with the SG-250 and leather wheel. For my knives and a couple of customers I will use a second leather wheel with 1µ diamonds. I also look at the time required to change wheels to a progressively finer grit when doing multiple knives when few appreciate the knifes sharpness beyond out of the box.
When chasing the sharpest edge I personally look at whose knife it is that I am sharpening. It is not too difficult to obtain an edge that is better than almost every out of the box knife. This can be achieved with the SG-250 and leather wheel. For my knives and a couple of customers I will use a second leather wheel with 1µ diamonds. I also look at the time required to change wheels to a progressively finer grit when doing multiple knives when few appreciate the knifes sharpness beyond out of the box.
#27
General Tormek Questions / Re: Should I buy the LA-220 ev...
Last post by John_B - February 14, 2026, 09:35:04 PMI don't find the leather wheel with paste all that messy. I fall into the camp that adds paste occasionally rather than with almost every knife as you see in some of the videos. I think it becomes finer with use giving me a better final edge. I also have a second leather wheel for a few knives that is charged with 1µ diamonds. Using a light touch and not over honing also is important in getting the bet edge in my experience.
#28
Knife Sharpening / Re: Dc-250 - Df-250 - Sg-250?
Last post by Ken S - February 14, 2026, 04:06:02 PMOne overlooked solution is to make the final pass or two with your DF-250 with VERY light pressure. This is demonstrated in the online class covering the T2, but can be applied to any Tormek. This is very fast, not involving any wheel changing. It is also very cost efficient, as no extra expense is involved. It gently transfers the initial honing from the leather wheel to the grinding wheel.
Ken
Ken
#29
General Tormek Questions / Re: Some Questions about my ne...
Last post by Ken S - February 14, 2026, 03:26:42 PMCarl,
I suggest you email your video and question to support (support@tormek.se). Some of us may have encountered your problem once; however, support handles problems regularly. I am not saying that there are lots of problems. I know the head of support. He has worked for Tormek since the early 1980s. He is very experienced and very dedicated. Incidentally, Tormek does not charge for tech support.
Ken
I suggest you email your video and question to support (support@tormek.se). Some of us may have encountered your problem once; however, support handles problems regularly. I am not saying that there are lots of problems. I know the head of support. He has worked for Tormek since the early 1980s. He is very experienced and very dedicated. Incidentally, Tormek does not charge for tech support.
Ken
#30
General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening concave paring ...
Last post by Rossy66 - February 14, 2026, 02:53:09 PMTake a quick look at this video, it should help.
https://www.youtube.com/live/aw4vJSUPXmk?si=FLB_MqNcvVXp00DJ
https://www.youtube.com/live/aw4vJSUPXmk?si=FLB_MqNcvVXp00DJ