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#21
Knife Sharpening / Re: KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by Kenshiro_Joestar - December 13, 2025, 07:52:14 PMHello HaiPaio,
thanks for your comment. Almost the whole blade is not fully supported in the jig, which makes the blade move and making it slightly wider in the middle (smaller edge angle). The gap, after cranking the screw down, is 1,25 mm while the blade is 0,6 mm thick. Only the outmost parts contact the blade. Thanks to Rich and Ken I could confirm the clamp is in spec, so no big (or even small) deal. Some cardboard was enough to solve that.
Eric
thanks for your comment. Almost the whole blade is not fully supported in the jig, which makes the blade move and making it slightly wider in the middle (smaller edge angle). The gap, after cranking the screw down, is 1,25 mm while the blade is 0,6 mm thick. Only the outmost parts contact the blade. Thanks to Rich and Ken I could confirm the clamp is in spec, so no big (or even small) deal. Some cardboard was enough to solve that.
Eric
#22
Knife Sharpening / Re: KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by HaioPaio - December 13, 2025, 06:32:49 PMEric
Please try sharpening with much less pressure. The smile is very likely not caused by the jig.
Please try sharpening with much less pressure. The smile is very likely not caused by the jig.
#23
Knife Sharpening / Re: KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by Kenshiro_Joestar - December 13, 2025, 05:36:12 PMThanks Rich and Ken!
I will tinker around some more with the jig. It seems I need to shim it, even cranking it uncomfortably hard won't close the gap enough and the blade isn't fully supported in the middle, creating a small "smile" in the grind.
Eric
I will tinker around some more with the jig. It seems I need to shim it, even cranking it uncomfortably hard won't close the gap enough and the blade isn't fully supported in the middle, creating a small "smile" in the grind.
Eric
#24
Knife Sharpening / Re: Tormek Marker
Last post by Sir Amwell - December 13, 2025, 02:18:22 PMI second the red sharpie Mr Colvin. Absolutely.
#25
Knife Sharpening / Knife restoration - Vintage Er...
Last post by kwakster - December 13, 2025, 12:14:11 PMA Swedish Erik Frost Mora knife, probably from the 1950's, with zero edge scandi grind carbon steel blade.
The leather sheath has a metal rim (painted red)
The knife was basically new & unused when i got it, but it had been sheathed for quite a few decades.
This is how it looked when i got it, and part of the edge still had a visible burr.
As found:
I renewed the edge on my Tormek T7 and gave the rest of the blade somewhat of a satin finish.
The fiber in the guard and below the butt had swollen a bit, so i sanded it flush with the brass and did some polishing.
Specs:
Overall length: 23,5 cm
Blade length: 12,1 cm
Blade thickness: 3,2 mm
Steel: Carbon steel
Handle material: Stag grip panels, brass & fiber guard, aluminium butt.
Weight: 140 grams
Sheath: Leather with red metal rim
The leather sheath has a metal rim (painted red)
The knife was basically new & unused when i got it, but it had been sheathed for quite a few decades.
This is how it looked when i got it, and part of the edge still had a visible burr.
As found:
I renewed the edge on my Tormek T7 and gave the rest of the blade somewhat of a satin finish.
The fiber in the guard and below the butt had swollen a bit, so i sanded it flush with the brass and did some polishing.
Specs:
Overall length: 23,5 cm
Blade length: 12,1 cm
Blade thickness: 3,2 mm
Steel: Carbon steel
Handle material: Stag grip panels, brass & fiber guard, aluminium butt.
Weight: 140 grams
Sheath: Leather with red metal rim
#26
Knife Sharpening / Re: KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by Ken S - December 13, 2025, 12:40:28 AMEric,
I agree with Rich. With traditional hand woodwork, glue ups for tabletops are usually "sprung". This means being planed so that the two ends of the board protrude ever so slightly beyond the middle of the board. When the boards are clamped together, the middle is compressed enough to be together and the ends are under pressure.
This is notquite the same as the knife jig jaws; however, extra pressure on the ends of the jaws will make the clamp more secure.
Ken
PStoTormek: This would be good to include in the instruction sheet.
I agree with Rich. With traditional hand woodwork, glue ups for tabletops are usually "sprung". This means being planed so that the two ends of the board protrude ever so slightly beyond the middle of the board. When the boards are clamped together, the middle is compressed enough to be together and the ends are under pressure.
This is notquite the same as the knife jig jaws; however, extra pressure on the ends of the jaws will make the clamp more secure.
Ken
PStoTormek: This would be good to include in the instruction sheet.
#27
Knife Sharpening / Re: KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by RichColvin - December 12, 2025, 09:18:40 PMEric,
I have the predecessor products (the SVM-100 and SVM-140). Both of them are the same way.
When I use them, the ends "flex" out so that there is a consistent edge against the blade.
Rich
I have the predecessor products (the SVM-100 and SVM-140). Both of them are the same way.
When I use them, the ends "flex" out so that there is a consistent edge against the blade.
Rich
#28
Knife Sharpening / Re: Tormek Marker
Last post by RichColvin - December 12, 2025, 09:04:57 PMI prefer to use red Sharpies. I find that the red stands out better.
#29
Knife Sharpening / KJ-140 middle gap normal?
Last post by Kenshiro_Joestar - December 12, 2025, 06:37:27 PMHello everyone,
I ordered a KJ-140 jig for grinding thin, wobbly blades (like from carpet cutting knives) and when I received it today, it is curved and the gap in the middle is 1,4 mm wide.
Can someone please tell me if this is intentional or did I receive a faulty product?
Greetings
Eric
I ordered a KJ-140 jig for grinding thin, wobbly blades (like from carpet cutting knives) and when I received it today, it is curved and the gap in the middle is 1,4 mm wide.
Can someone please tell me if this is intentional or did I receive a faulty product?
Greetings
Eric
#30
Knife Sharpening / Re: Tormek Marker
Last post by Royale - December 12, 2025, 06:35:31 PMI've been using the T8 for a bit over a year now, and I have all 3 diamond grindstones, SG-250, SJ-250, MB-102, a third party front vertical base, both knife jigs, a scissor jig, the standard and extended support bar, small knife jig, the platform, and axe jig.
No regrets at all as I've used almost all the items in my sharpening business, less the axe jig. The equipment really is a sound investment that does have the longevity and precision.
I have a 1x30 belt sander on the way to be used mostly to supplement my bench polisher, and maybe some large scale reprofiling.
But long story short, the biggest hurdle to overcome would probably be the business aspect. How you create your pricing and standards framework, and how you do your own quality management.
Customers would never cease to "amaze" you. Just today, a customer claimed a knife sharpened by me had poor edge retention, and wanted me to do a resharpening for free.
I checked my records and I sharpened his knife FIVE MONTHS AGO
No regrets at all as I've used almost all the items in my sharpening business, less the axe jig. The equipment really is a sound investment that does have the longevity and precision.
I have a 1x30 belt sander on the way to be used mostly to supplement my bench polisher, and maybe some large scale reprofiling.
But long story short, the biggest hurdle to overcome would probably be the business aspect. How you create your pricing and standards framework, and how you do your own quality management.
Customers would never cease to "amaze" you. Just today, a customer claimed a knife sharpened by me had poor edge retention, and wanted me to do a resharpening for free.
I checked my records and I sharpened his knife FIVE MONTHS AGO