Recent posts

#21

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by Rossy66 - December 07, 2025, 03:10:03 PM

What a great idea, I will look today while I'm out. I did order the MB-102 as I am interested in sharpening on the side and learning to sharpen chisels and planer blades.

#22

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by RickKrung - December 07, 2025, 08:26:03 AM

...snip...
 As you mentioned, the Tormek video does showing stropping with the USB in the vertical position but they do state that the clamp jig may come in contact with the first holding screw, I was wondering if once I set the correct angle (I also bought the KS-123) then could I just remove the screw? the right screw would still be tightened and the fine adjuster ring would stop the USB from moving forward!
...snip...

Rather than remove the knob(screw), I would try replacing it with a set-screw (some people call these "grub screws").  Takes a touch longer to secure, but removes the interference while providing the clearance.  Some do this with the locking screw on the knife jigs, when that knob interferes. 

Most set-screws one can buy in local/chain hardware stores are "cup-tip", which is a conical shaped cavity in the middle, leaving a circular sharp ridge near the outer diameter.  These will "cut" into the shafts and are meant for situations where the set screw is tighten and left tight so it will securely hold the shaft in more permanently.  You do not want that. 

Look at the end of the Tormek locking screws.  They are flat, which is what you want.  Filing the cup points down will help a lot, but flat-tip set screws are available, at least from online stores like McMaster-Carr, the problem there being they often have to be bought in small - medium quantities (10, 25, 50).  It is rare to find flat-tip set screws in local hardware stores, particularly for these, M6x1.0 metric screws in the USA. 

AND, do you will want Stainless Steel.  Plain steel will rust.

Cup-tip
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Flat-tip
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#23

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by Rossy66 - December 06, 2025, 09:07:43 PM

Thanks for replying RickKrung, I will post some pictures soon. I am used to stropping on a flat leather strop so the rotating honing wheel is a bit confusing, especially the angle. I am currently watching the Tormek Honing video and it is very informative, as I mentioned in my post, I may invest in the Tormek MB-102 Multi Base but I have already spent over $1800 so I am trying to keep my costs down. As you mentioned, the Tormek video does showing stropping with the USB in the vertical position but they do state that the clamp jig may come in contact with the first holding screw, I was wondering if once I set the correct angle (I also bought the KS-123) then could I just remove the screw? the right screw would still be tightened and the fine adjuster ring would stop the USB from moving forward!

I guess I am just trying to be overly cheap and I should just order the MB-102. I am trying to set up a time efficient process so I can maintain quality for my future customers while keeping my sharpening/honing time to a minimum.

#24

Knife Sharpening / Re: Did I make a mistake?

Last post by John_B - December 06, 2025, 09:00:22 PM

As I am sure you are aware Japanese knives are made with several styles of bevel. Single bevel, Western double bevel and a double bevel with each side at a unique angle. They may also come with smaller bevel angle than many western knives. Being left handed I have stuck with western style double bevel with my Japanese knives. Also try and develop a light touch with the diamond wheel as it cuts quicker than the SG-250. I also like to use a jeweler's loupe to inspect the entire knife edge. You will often find areas that were missed in your initial passes due to prior poor sharpening practices.

I maintain a small concierge sharpening business with limited customers as I don't want it to turn into a job. One thing I have done is create a notebook with a section for each customers knives. I include sharpening angle, jig projection length for next time and any reprofiling or repair that I need to do.

#25

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by RickKrung - December 06, 2025, 07:14:44 PM

I was wondering if there is a honing wheel I could buy that is the same diameter as the T8 Diamond wheels?

The reason I ask is that I am new to the T8 system and my biggest problem is getting a honing angle that I am comfortable with. I have the KS 123 so I am able to change the height of the universal support fairly quickly but it would be nice to just remove the support over to the honing wheel and start honing straight away. Any other suggestions would be welcome.

...snip...
The problem is that there is not enough room for longer knives if you set it up like this.

A better solution would be to have a different setup.
...snip...

It might be helpful to see a picture of your setup.  It may also be helpful for you to describe more about what is the difficulty "getting a honing angle that I am comfortable with".

Standard T8 with the USB on the front of the machine only, grinding and honing edge-trailing?  Or grinding on the rear mounted USB, edge-leading and honing on the front mounted USB directly in the stock USB horizontal position, edge-trailing? 

As Dan points out, mounting a 10" honing wheel can be done, but if you are grinding bevels on the USB mounted on the front/horizontal position, the honing wheel height will likely interfere with the movement of longer knives to the left (honing wheel side). 

If you are grinding edge-trailing from the USB on the front, a possible solution might be to add what we refer to as the "Frontal Vertical Base" (FVB).  The Tormek MB-120 provides this functionality and there are some third-party FVBs available. 

A front mounted USB in the horizontal slots only allows for a horizontal adjustment in the USB position for angle changes.  Adding an FVB adds a vertical adjustment, greatly expanding flexibility of angle positioning.  It also raises the knife/jig assembly, helping to clear the honing wheel when working with longer knives.

I think this arrangement is highly likely to solve your difficulty in "getting a honing angle that I am comfortable with" as well as clearing either an 8" or 10" honing wheel. 

Also, if you are grinding from the front mounted USB, have you tried grinding edge-leading on the rear mounted USB?  If so, or even if not, perhaps you could elaborate on how/why that would not work for you. 

If you are not familiar with the FVB and if you are interested in learning more, do a search here in the knife sharpening subforum for "FVB" or "Frontal Vertical Base".  I got 29 hits using "FVB" and 57 using "Frontal Vertical Base", not doubt some would be duplicates and many would not be relevant to getting a basic understanding, but you'd learn a lot. 

#26

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by Rossy66 - December 06, 2025, 05:46:21 PM

I appreciate the info and links, I just watched a video with the Tormek guys using the multi base jig. I may look into that also.

#27

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by Dan - December 06, 2025, 04:47:56 PM

These (and others like them) are available...
https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/leather-wheel-250x35-smooth-surface-to-the-end-trigger/

The main difficulty is using it on the Tormek with the grinding wheel in place. Honing wheels like this can be mounted on the other side usually with an adapter like this
https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/adapter-for-2-wheel/

Also longer USB supports
https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/toolbar-tormek-ready-double-sided/

These items are available eslewhere too.

The problem is that there is not enough room for longer knives if you set it up like this.

A better solution would be to have a different setup.

Either remove the grinding wheel and put the honing wheel in its place (not my favourite idea)

Put the honing wheel on a different machine. It is not essential to use another Tormek for this. You may be able to improvise...
Some details of my idea on this thread
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?msg=38933

#28

Knife Sharpening / Honing wheels same diameter as...

Last post by Rossy66 - December 06, 2025, 04:20:02 PM

I was wondering if there is a honing wheel I could buy that is the same diameter as the T8 Diamond wheels?

The reason I ask is that I am new to the T8 system and my biggest problem is getting a honing angle that I am comfortable with. I have the KS 123 so I am able to change the height of the universal support fairly quickly but it would be nice to just remove the support over to the honing wheel and start honing straight away. Any other suggestions would be welcome.

#29

Knife Sharpening / Re: Did I make a mistake?

Last post by Rossy66 - December 05, 2025, 12:34:20 PM

thanks for the advice Royal, I went with the DF250 as my main wheel as I watched a bunch of videos and this seemed like a great overall wheel to give a great edge all around. Most videos and forums state that the honing side of the process is the key to getting the knife really sharp and so that is where I am more focused on right now. It's a big difference going from 500, 100, 500, and in some cases 12000 grit stones to the Tormek but after practicing on some cheap knives, I am starting to get a sense and feel of the knife on the wheel. The KS-123 is a god send and I am excited to use it on my Japanese knives when I get the skill and confidence to sharpen them.

Thanks to everybody who have contributed to this thread, It's a great community.

#30

General Tormek Questions / Re: Yet another use for the BG...

Last post by RickKrung - December 05, 2025, 01:22:11 AM

This is a bit of an old post, but I have just recently done something quite similar, using a Vevor 1x30 Belt Grinder.  These pictures only show the setup with the XB-100, the MB-120 and a USB, but it should be clear enough. 

I've tried using the platform pictured for freehand knife sharpening, both edge-trailing and edge-leading.  I've never liked free-hand and this is not much different.  Hard to keep the blade in position on the platform when in edge-trailing (the safer manner).  Not bad edge-leading.  The Vevor variable speed can bring the belt speed down to about 2/3 the surface speed of a 10" Tormek wheel, but I've been using it a good bit faster than that. 

Using a knife in a Tormek knife jig is much better, pretty much just like using one on a Tormek, edge-trailing (which I just about only do for honing). Edge-trailing, the belt keeps the knife/jig combo in position and the grinding motion/action is just like on a Tormek, except narrower working surface.  Have not tried it edge-leading, but I suspect it will have the same issue with holding position as does free-hand edge-trailing.  Maybe that is just a muscle memory thing that can be learned-away. 

I do not plan on abandoning my T8.  This belt grinder is intended to replace two other belt grinders and two bench grinders, at least as far a presence in my one-car garage shop is concerned.  Just not enough space for all that I had when in a two-car garage.  The belt grinder will live and play in the garage shop. The T8 lives and plays in the back bedroom, that I've turned into a workroom.  I do not want grinding dust from any belt or bench grinder in the workroom. 

Thought I'd check sharpness on the one knife done so far, in setup and testing.  Using only a 100 grit Cubitron belt (@15ºdps), honing on the T8 composite honing wheel at (+2º), finishing on a hanging leather strop:

BESS sharpness tester, grams of force:
After grinding, with burr:  650
After honing:                173
After leather strop:        113