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#21
Knife Sharpening / Re: Newbie question: chef kniv...
Last post by RickKrung - December 23, 2025, 06:37:08 PMQuote from: Dan on December 23, 2025, 05:41:55 PMHello and welcome to the forum.
Is the blade worn something like this?
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/BPWKJC/an-old-chefs-knife-which-has-been-sharpened-until-the-blade-is-worn-BPWKJC.jpg
It would be useful to see a photo of your knife to be able to advise you better.
"A picture is worth a thousand words" as they say...
Danny
Yes, or what is sometimes referred to as a "Bird's Beak", like this.
#22
Knife Sharpening / Re: Newbie question: chef kniv...
Last post by Dan - December 23, 2025, 05:41:55 PMHello and welcome to the forum.
Is the blade worn something like this?
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/BPWKJC/an-old-chefs-knife-which-has-been-sharpened-until-the-blade-is-worn-BPWKJC.jpg
It would be useful to see a photo of your knife to be able to advise you better.
"A picture is worth a thousand words" as they say...
Danny
Is the blade worn something like this?
https://c8.alamy.com/comp/BPWKJC/an-old-chefs-knife-which-has-been-sharpened-until-the-blade-is-worn-BPWKJC.jpg
It would be useful to see a photo of your knife to be able to advise you better.
"A picture is worth a thousand words" as they say...
Danny
#23
Knife Sharpening / Newbie question: chef knive ha...
Last post by MarthaH - December 23, 2025, 10:50:23 AMHi everybody,
after decades of using a Lansky sharpening system with more or less success I recently bought a dirty, but not much used Tormek 1200. It sat for a long time in a box with a lot of accessories. It ran, but after 10min the motor lost power. Since the Tormek construction is more than simple, the problem was easily identified: dead motor condensator. After replacing it, the machine is running fine.
Over the time I gathered quite a collection of kitchen knives. One of them, a Zwilling chef knive (20cm) is quite worn. The heel (is this the correct terminus technicus?) is longer than the blade, giving the knive a negative curve at the end.
What would be the correct procedure to repair this?
PS. English is not my native language, please be tolerant ;-)
after decades of using a Lansky sharpening system with more or less success I recently bought a dirty, but not much used Tormek 1200. It sat for a long time in a box with a lot of accessories. It ran, but after 10min the motor lost power. Since the Tormek construction is more than simple, the problem was easily identified: dead motor condensator. After replacing it, the machine is running fine.
Over the time I gathered quite a collection of kitchen knives. One of them, a Zwilling chef knive (20cm) is quite worn. The heel (is this the correct terminus technicus?) is longer than the blade, giving the knive a negative curve at the end.
What would be the correct procedure to repair this?
PS. English is not my native language, please be tolerant ;-)
#24
Scissors Sharpening / Re: The way I found to sharpen...
Last post by RickKrung - December 23, 2025, 01:36:55 AMQuote from: Saintemouleurdelenergie on December 23, 2025, 12:20:39 AM...snip...
And finally, I have read about the FVB, I was waiting a bit to buy one because I didn't need one enough to purchase one. It never occurs to me that the the MB-102 can do that job.
...snip...
Yes, Tormek had the MB-100 initially. They modified it to add the vertical holes to hold a USB in the vertical position, to provide the functionality of an FVB, thus the MB-102. An astounding move on their part as they have not incorporated user's concepts much in their highly guarded patents, etc., but much welcomed by their user communities.
#25
Scissors Sharpening / Re: The way I found to sharpen...
Last post by Saintemouleurdelenergie - December 23, 2025, 12:20:39 AMI always tought SVD-100 tool rest was design to be use with scissors...that explain a lot.
Modifying the platform jig is also a brilliant idea.
And finally, I have read about the FVB, I was waiting a bit to buy one because I didn't need one enough to purchase one. It never occurs to me that the the MB-102 can do that job.
Thanks a lot for you detailed answer.
Modifying the platform jig is also a brilliant idea.
And finally, I have read about the FVB, I was waiting a bit to buy one because I didn't need one enough to purchase one. It never occurs to me that the the MB-102 can do that job.
Thanks a lot for you detailed answer.
#26
Scissors Sharpening / Re: The way I found to sharpen...
Last post by RickKrung - December 22, 2025, 07:40:10 PMQuote from: Saintemouleurdelenergie on December 22, 2025, 04:25:13 AM...snip...
It could almost work like this. The problem is because the resting plate is so wide, the second scissor kind of touch the plate (closing the scissors).
To fix it, I put a piece of wood on top of the plate. While the scissor is open 90 degree, it can go as far as the stone.
To be able to have a proper angle, I also had to thicken the piece of wood.
...snip...
Very interesting and curious.
One curiosity is, why do you not use the standard scissors jig platform rather than the Tormek SVD-100 Tool Rest? It has at least two advantages, 1) plastic sliding surface for easier movement and 2) allows getting the support bar closer to the grinding wheel, providing more support close to the wheel.
You cannot view this attachment.
An obvious answer could be that it is wider than the SVD-100 which makes the interference at the wheel worse, which is your primary issue (red ellipse in image).
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I see two things you could try, one being most likely to solve the problem, the other may help with this, but many of us have found to be a huge help in other ways.
1) Modify the platform jig, whichever one you use, to remove material to eliminate the interference. It could be as simple as using a hacksaw to cut away the entire side of the platform. Or it could be just removing some of the underside that slides on the USB so that the platform can move/slide over further before is stopped by the USB. I did this a couple way. Sort of the first option was to cut the scissors jig into two pieces and modified them to provide narrower platforms. The second is shown in the photo with the several jigs, lower left corner one. It is also shown, more elegantly with by the cutaway on the underside of the drill bit platfrom, which was done on a milling machine.
You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.
The other thought, that goes to needing to elevate the work with the wooden block, is to use the Tormek MB-102 and a USB to achieve that elevation, yet allow you to use jigs and platforms directly on the USB bar. This sort of device was originated by the late Vadim Kraichuk of Knife Grinders of Australia, known as the "Frontal Vertical Base" (FVB), in part to provide clearance of the knife and jig during honing. The functionality of the FVB has since been incorporated into the modified Multi-Base, MB-102.
You cannot view this attachment.
#27
Scissors Sharpening / The way I found to sharpen sci...
Last post by Saintemouleurdelenergie - December 22, 2025, 04:25:13 AMDisclaimer : english is my second language, sorry for the mistakes.
So, I had some issues while I was sharpening scissors. Here they are :
1. Some smalls scissors don't fit properly in the jig.
1.1. Some scissors are not square at all, they back have a weird angle, so they are hard to clip straight in the jig.
2. While the inner blade of the scissor is all flat, some, on the back, near the pivot point have a piece of metal that always touch the stone. It's not a big deal, I've see that you can just mark the point with a marker but it's annoying.
That was the problem.
So, in my opinion, it make more sense if we clip the scissor on the other side of the jig. The inner blade resting on the bottom of the jig (the other part of the scissor is on the right then).
You then have a problem, because the other scissor is touching the machine. The wheel also don't spin in the proper way. But if you put the bar horizontally, you then don't have those problems.
It could almost work like this. The problem is because the resting plate is so wide, the second scissor kind of touch the plate (closing the scissors).
To fix it, I put a piece of wood on top of the plate. While the scissor is open 90 degree, it can go as far as the stone.
To be able to have a proper angle, I also had to thicken the piece of wood.
When it's done, it work kind of well. It's similar to the jig that some people create to sharpen knife freehand, except this one work for the scissor.
So, I I don't have picture to explain what I said, but I've made a youtube video about it. It's in french, but you'll get the idea with the images.
Anyway, I was curious to ear your thoughts about it. It's more freehanded, but it work well when you have the proper angle. The results also seems pretty good. Plus, you don't need to unclip/reclip the other scissors. Anyone have done something similar ?
A bunch of people ask me if I sharpen scissors. I feel like it's something really in demand, so I think it worth it to find a proper way to do it properly.
Thank you.
So, I had some issues while I was sharpening scissors. Here they are :
1. Some smalls scissors don't fit properly in the jig.
1.1. Some scissors are not square at all, they back have a weird angle, so they are hard to clip straight in the jig.
2. While the inner blade of the scissor is all flat, some, on the back, near the pivot point have a piece of metal that always touch the stone. It's not a big deal, I've see that you can just mark the point with a marker but it's annoying.
That was the problem.
So, in my opinion, it make more sense if we clip the scissor on the other side of the jig. The inner blade resting on the bottom of the jig (the other part of the scissor is on the right then).
You then have a problem, because the other scissor is touching the machine. The wheel also don't spin in the proper way. But if you put the bar horizontally, you then don't have those problems.
It could almost work like this. The problem is because the resting plate is so wide, the second scissor kind of touch the plate (closing the scissors).
To fix it, I put a piece of wood on top of the plate. While the scissor is open 90 degree, it can go as far as the stone.
To be able to have a proper angle, I also had to thicken the piece of wood.
When it's done, it work kind of well. It's similar to the jig that some people create to sharpen knife freehand, except this one work for the scissor.
So, I I don't have picture to explain what I said, but I've made a youtube video about it. It's in french, but you'll get the idea with the images.
Anyway, I was curious to ear your thoughts about it. It's more freehanded, but it work well when you have the proper angle. The results also seems pretty good. Plus, you don't need to unclip/reclip the other scissors. Anyone have done something similar ?
A bunch of people ask me if I sharpen scissors. I feel like it's something really in demand, so I think it worth it to find a proper way to do it properly.
Thank you.
#28
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Marble...
Last post by Brock O Lee - December 21, 2025, 01:46:29 AMImpressive!
#29
Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Question
Last post by Ken S - December 21, 2025, 01:08:47 AMHere is a link to the Knife Grinders youtube describing how to use the diamond grading plates:
https://youtu.be/141hD1d1zj0?si=KNY8N51jgPNBNrE9
Ken
https://youtu.be/141hD1d1zj0?si=KNY8N51jgPNBNrE9
Ken
#30
Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Question
Last post by ABall - December 20, 2025, 09:09:00 AMThis is what I bought yes, and also followed his advive, purchased the 1000 for the SJ250, I think he said actual grading would be higher than the plate numbers but my memory is a little rusty. The only advice I didnt follow was to buy heavy plates, mine where under £1 each on Ali, to be honest I didnt expect them to be any good but they are showing no sign of wear after multiple uses.