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Many of us have also not liked the resonance of the water trough.  A few of us have done some to alleviate it but I think none have eliminated it.  Take a look at this thread, it has a couple solutions. 

I can offer a solution. I use a big roll of tape and put it against the side. Not flat, but with the round side. I use the tape to secure the blade against the clambs, so it is no extra.

Pietje

Thanks for your technical answere.
So I will buy the toolbar from schleifunkies.de. It is higher, wider and has a standart M12 threat.
https://schleifjunkies.de/produkt/toolbar-tormek-ready-einseitig/
For 40 € a lot of problems are gone.

Pietje

Hey Folks!
I tried to put a M12 threadnut on the toolbar. It doesn´t match. What thread is on the Tormek standart toolbar?
I controlled my threadnut with a threadcutting tap and it is OK.

Pietje

Did I get your question right?
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Oh yes, you are right.

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Calculators are a better choice.
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Can you name two or three? Is there one in german?
KnifeGrindersAustralia and Schleifjunkies did I found.
SharpCalc didnt stand the Test against WM-200.

Pietje

(Use a calculator).... ↓


Can you name two or three different ones.
One I tried with the mobile (SharpCalc) had a great different to the WM-200. A gap with 4mm.

Pietje

Hey folks!
With my new T-8 I have a problem to find the right angle.
Putting the WM-200 on the blade, it shows the 20° Angle. With the same configuration I put a levelbox on the blade, the angle is around 50°.
What is the mistake?

Thanks
Pietje

Hi Pietje,
are we talking about 20° per side or 20° included?

Mike

Thanks for the interest in my problem.
I meaned 20° per side. Do you call it Cuttingangle? And the pther one is the bladeangle?
NExt time I try to be more acurately.
Pietje

Hi!
I am also new in using a Tormek.
After the Grinding with the standartwheel check the blade with a cooonball for burr.
In my opinion it makes no sense to remove the burr with the japanese waterstone.
That will cost a lot of material of the stone.
After using the standartstone with 320 grid to reach the form you like, bring the standartstone to 1000grid. Use the Edding to mark the grind of the knife and adjust again your angle. Now doing only 2 or 3 moves per side and then flip around. This will reduce the burr. After this the letherwheel.
When the cottonbal goes smothly on the edge, than take the japnese waterstone to bring shine on the blade. Three or four moves per side shall bring you to your aim.
Do you get all of the work in one session? I´m asking, because the T4 can only work for 30 Minutes. How many time needs your T4 to cool down?

Hello!
Congratulation for the new Tormek. Remember, now is the garantee up to eight years after registration.
The weight for the Bess and the CBN´s yuo can buy at https://schleifjunkies.de.
There are three different Bess, which one do You have?

Hi guys!
My Sabatier Chef knife Damast doesnt work.
It is sharp with 20° and goes through paper with a smooth whisper. My finger did it cut too. Damned.
On chives it is working perfect, with onions it fails. Bell pepper is so lala.
I have no meat to test it at this time.
Why does it work so different?
Because the thickness of the blade?
Did I made a mistake? What could be a solution?

Thanks
Pietje

Have you ever seen a 3mm thick boning knife?

Pietje, Tormek produces these online classes in four languages, including German.

No, I am not a woodcraftman. Kitchen knifes are my point of intrest.
Thanks for the tip with the videos.

You might look at this thread....

Thanks for sending this link, but in my optinion shims are not good for the handling.
I will use them only as an exception.
At last also the guy in the video modified the SVM-45 by  shaping 0,5mm and 1,0mm away from the groundplate.
This is a systemtic mismatch. To grind the mounting bar to 2mm takes one problem away from me.

b) quite sturdy and
c) probably stock material

This is just pure speculation. Don't have your SVM-00 ground down too far.

Thanks for your answer, Mike.
So there is no real reason by the professionals in this forum.
My aim is 2mm or 2.1mm thickness, so my SVM-45 can flip proper for 180°.
I am sure, this is strong enought for all grindig forces. But yes, my Excel can calculate this for control. You gave me a good hind.

Hello forum!
Sorry, sorry, sorry for my bad English. That is not really my tounge.
The Tormek jigs for knifesharpening cannot center properly to flip to 180° around.
My SVM-45 flips correct for knifes with 2,1mm thickness of the blade.
My SVM-140 works well with 3mm.
The mount of the SVM-00 is 3mm thick. WHY??
Tormek says, the SVM-00 is to use only with the SVM-45.
Little pocketknifes will be holden also by a 2mm mount. And with a little tapeline everyone cann adjust the centering to his jig.
Now I have to go to a shop to grind 0,5mm per side to have a propper flip.
Or is there a real reason for 3mm?

Have a nice day
Pietje