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I have a machete with 16.5" of sharpened blade and the extended USB is long enough to accommodate it.  But, as you mentioned, there is the issue of the big belly towards the tip.  If I was going to sharpen the machete on my Tormek I would do the long, straight section and then reclamp and sharpen the belly separately -- almost like sharpening a huge tanto blade.

Hey there!
There is a toolbar with 65cm lengh availeble at https://schleifjunkies.de. There is also a doublejig. International shipping is possible. I have this long toolbar. It works fine. But using the full lengh needs attention to the Tormek jig. The black screwhead hits the two vertikal bars.

Pietje

Hello!
Solinger dünnschliff is very exciting.
I have it on an Wüsthoff Chefknife 205 and on a Wüsthoff Nakiri 165.

The german Godfather of grinding is

Jürgen Schanz
Schneidwerkzeugmechanikermeister
Karlsfeldstrasse 13
D-76297 Stutensee
Tel: +49-(0)7249-95 25 09
Fax: +49-(0)7249-43 79
https://www.schanz-messer.de/kunsthandwerk/kontakt/

The Homepage is also in English.

The dünnschliff is about 25 € for each of my knives.

Hi Ken!
With the KJ-jigs it is possible to test it on knives.
My Zwilling Cleaver works very well with vegetables after putting on a 12° convex edge.
My Tojiro Santoku didn´t benefit of the convex. I had to grind the standart edge for 12°.

Pietje

Hi Ken!
The industrial rule of construction is:
A hole can only be greater and a shaft can only be smaller. Thats ISO.

Pietje

Hi highpower!
It is the link user cbwx34 has posted.
For the offered solution in this video I have a different point of view.
You may loose your 8-year garantee grinding the shaft.
If you have only one Tormek T8 my way is to hone up the hole of the disc.
with a reamer and special honing oil or with a adjustable handreamer you will get an proper hole with a diameter you need.

Pietje

Hello!
Your method beware you from a lot of problems. Thats good.

What do I mean:
A lot of users in this forum have reported, that the stone is tumbling right-left.
I have a problem with truing the stone.
Another of my problems is, that the stone goes up and down. My other discs do not have this problems.

Both failures seems to me are grounded in an incorrect centerhole, because the other discs are workung well.

Tormek told my to put the stone always with writing up at 12 o´clock.

For this high price Tormek has to fit a bushing in the stone to center the stone correct.
But Tormek seems also having a problem with the quality control.
On YT is a video that the diameter of the shaft is not 12mm +0,000. It is 12,001 so the CBN discs Schleifjunkies is selling doesn´t fit to custumer machines.
In my sight this is a scandal.
For machinebuilder there is a ISO standart, called ISO Einheitswelle / Einheitsbohrung. (Sorry, didn´t find a translation.)
It helps engeneers to secure a proper fit of pin and hole. There are three kinds of fitting. Strong, soft and gentle.
With this bushing of the waterstone they bring a problem from the custumer back to their plant.

The shaft doesn´t have the centering holes at the ends so a custumer cann´t correct the shafts diameter.

So long
Pietje

Hi,

With that said, can anyone advise me if the FVB jig is still available to purchase?  I see this as the next tool I must have for my T8.

Thanks!

Lokk also at

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https://www.feines-werkzeug.de/werkzeuge/

Hey!
I didn´t got it dull. But only since 6 month. Ask the forum for the standing.
But the anticorrosive liquid is expensive over the time. Better look vor CBM Discs.
And no japanese Waterstone! Look for a CBN too.
Look at

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https://schleifjunkies.de/shop/
He sends internalional wide.

Good luck
Pietje

Hey!

curious to know if you (who sharpen many knives per day) do the above for each knife or do something like:

I thought in the same way like you.
I solved it by buying a diamond wheel 360 for the first grinding, so the standart stone is always prepared to 1000.

Hi folks!
That was new to me.
The SJ-250 has to be mounted only with writing upwards.
If you do not so the rotation of the dics is not correct.
That´s the info from Tormek Customer Service.

For me that´s trash. So my next wheel is a CBN with 6µ.

Pietje

Hello!
A s I understand, Durofelt has a problem.
There is no problem with the 250 rockhard

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https://www.mototechnica-shop.de/Schnaeppchen-Fehlserie-Abweichung-einige-mm-Filzscheibe-Grat-Entfernen-Messer-und-Polieren--leichte-Massabweichung---Farbdivergenzen-rockhart-250-x-30.html

There is also

https://schleifjunkies.de

International sending

So long
Pietje

I'm not particularly worried about any mold for the following reasons:

2) The area of contact between the 2x4's on my new storage rack is very small.  It is maybe one cm² of contact area where the water could theoretically "wick" from the stone to the wood. Counteracting that moisture transfer is the large surrounding surface area of the wood, which is constantly drying out, trying to reach equilibrium with the (low) room humidity.

In my opinion that will bring the problem that the SJ get 2 gutters from contact.
Take a file or a micutter to put a slant in the contact area. With water the JS is so heavy and so limp.

Good luck
Pietje

Thanks for your answeres.
But it hit not my problem.
I knew the video7.
I am only using the truing tool with the left hand so the weight of my arm is on the T-8 and not on the toolbar.
I only turn the threaded nut 1/20 of a round, count to 15 and turn then the next 11/20.
I only work with the truing tool from the outer to the inner side.
For the depth I only turn the toolbarthreaded nut 174 of the differenz between two numbers on it.
After truing I check the disc with a straightedge (lineal). Right and left side of the disc girth is down and the middle is up.

So I started truing again and tested out the startingpoint in the middle at the highest point of the girth.
But the result is the same.

for the moment I use the SE-77 and a diamantplate for truing.

Pietje

I checked the SG-250 and it is correct flat.

Hello!
I use a Waterstone 250. I tried to truing the stone. It doesn´t work corretly.
I drive very slow from the outer side to the inner side. to check the line, I use a straightedge.
It´s aweful. It is a curve from innerside to the auter side. But it has to be flat.
How can I get a flat stone?

Pietje

Hello Nico!
I marked on my WM-200 the 215mm for the letherwheel.

When you unpacked the T8, there was a dummy on the shaft. This you can use, when the grinding wheel is disturbing you.
On the other hand think about buying a frontbase and the greater toolbar. It is higher and longer.
With this parts you win a lot of space to handle the knives.

Another way is to buy a 250mm feltwheel. It is to use instead of the grinding wheel, but can use the configuration of jig and toolbar.
But not really. With a felt you cannot work against the blade.
A lot of videos say that the grinding angle is NOT alike the honing angle.

Stay save
Pietje