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Is that a tormek subsidiary? How is that site and manufacturer up and running? Don't get me wrong it looks like they sell great tools, but it seems a little more officially making use of tormek intellectual property than, say, the late and great Wootz/Knife grinders AU.

Saw that and was really hoping for the SJ to be included too... oh well.

That's interesting, but not something I think is happening with mine. I ensure that I see two "rails" of polish from the sj stone, one on the heel, and one on the edge when changing over from the 200 to the 250. I use visual confirmation rather than specific angles here, which I think negates the heel only polishing. In addition, I've experimented with that exact same problem, and have found that there is such a minuscule amount of metal to be removed that even if the sj250 starts only touching the heel, it quickly removes enough material to polish all the way to the edge. I typically don't mess around with calculators, calipers, formulas etc, and am content with the results I get with the angle master and visual inspection alone. Most of the knives I take in are as dull as butter knives, and when they leave, I can slice free hanging hairs with them.

I started out my little side gig/sharpening business with a t4, then went to the t8 when I surpassed the duty cycle and burnt myself on the top of the t4. Now, I use the t4 with the sg-200, and the t8 with the sj-250. Interestingly this gives a sort of flat over hollow grind effect due to the different radii, is faster, and results in a polished toothy kind of edge that's fantastic for chef's knives. It's fast, too, but moving from the t4 to the t8 I need to find the proper bevel again, which is slow. Now, though, with the KS 123, I think this setup will be far faster. I look forward to recieving mine. All this is a long winded way of saying- the t4 -> t8 move is nicely efficient. Cheers and happy sharpening.
 

Title. None of the jigs I have fit the chisels I use for timberframing- the skew jig is too small, the short tool jig is too small, and the general flat table surface jig references off the wrong side of the tool for me to put a bevel on it, if that makes sense. The bottom of my chisel is of course dead flat, but the top has a diamond cross section to it, so I can't reference off the top. Any suggestions? DIY jigs? Will Tormek ever come out with a "large chisel" jig, which I'd sell my soul, kidney, and firstborn child for?

Interesting. As Ken mentioned- your experience was drastically different than mine. After purchasing one of the SJ-250 stones along with a t8 model, I noticed a massive wobble in both stone and machine- my guess is that the shaft had been bent before shipping or something, and I somehow got a janky stone to boot. Heard back from Stig within the day, who sorted out a new machine and stone ASAP. The second stone was also out of true- he walked me through troubleshooting, discussed the manufacturing process in detail, and when I still wasn't satisfied sent a THIRD stone, which worked perfectly. An excellent guy, and I can't imagine why you haven't heard back yet. As a sidenote- anybody know if tormek has sorted out the SJ-250 wobble problem yet?

The only injury I've ever received from a tormek was when I was being a dingbat and somehow managed to get my index finger sucked into the gap between the stone and the body of the machine. Hurt like a [redacted] for a week or so but no permanent damage. I'd imagine gloves might make this slightly more likely to happen, but it really all comes down to don't be an idiot and you'll be fine.

Hiya Ken- I'm a little confused by this. I was under the impression that this forum was made to further knowledge of sharping and to refine techniques, using the Tormek system as a starting point. There are many other non tormek parts, techniques, and systems discussed on this forum. Why draw the line here, and potentially limit others from learning about new ideas and techniques that might work better than what Tormek has to offer? I'm not saying that the above would (no idea what it is) but it seems to be needlessly restrictive. I'm not trying to poke the bear here and mean no offense, and am asking this in the spirit of genuine curiosity and a desire to learn more. Would be happy to continue this convo via DM.

Thank you.

As a sidenote- I think that might be zinc, which is what most of the tormek jigs are made of (I believe.)

This may be an exceedingly dumb question- will all these interesting new techniques work with the self centering jig?

@tgbto

An interesting video! In my experience I've actually found the opposite to be true. My setup is a T8 with SG and SJ. I use heavy pressure on the SG for heavily worn chisel edges that I need to clean up fast, fine tune and square the edge, and then move on to the SJ. The whole process probably takes me about eight minutes from beater demolition chisel full of dents, rolls, and nicks to razor sharp mirror polish. I've found this (for me at least) results in less swarf buildup, and actually erodes the stone a bit too, revealing fresh, sharper cutting grains in the stone. That's my theory at least.

And this is what I love about this forum- the differing ideas! That's where the learning starts.

Cheers and happy sharpening!

I'd like to preface this by saying I love and have used the SJ-250 stone for the past three years, not without issue, but at least with an acceptable level of annoyance. When I first recieved my T8 after upgrading from the t4 to support a growing sharpening business, I had to send one t8 and a different SJ-250 stone back to tormek due to absolutely atrocious wobbling of both the drive shaft and a warped stone. Customer service was stellar- Stig was almost instantaneous with replies and very helpful throughout the whole return process. My current stone still wobbles, but far less then the previous one. I've made use of Tormek's (and I believe I've seen it mentioned somewhere on the forum, not sure who to credit with that one) process of marking a line on the shaft, lock nut, and marking the stone into four quadrants to help align everything and remove as many variables as possible. I have to fiddle around with it for 3-5 or so minutes each time I set it up to get it running as smoothly as I can.

Now, onto my gripe.
The damn thing still wobbles. I've been assured by Stig that "The SG stones should run nicely and within the tolerances, see handbook page 162. The Japanese stone has almost twice as much [wobble] since they are made in a different way and the hole is slightly larger." I feel like this should not be the case for an almost FIVE HUNDRED dollar piece of equipment. If I'm paying this much for something, I think it should have at least the same tolerances as the relatively cheaper SG-250. Again, I'm not complaining about the level of the finish it leaves- that part is superb, no problems there. In addition, for no good reason, the SJ-250 stone will seemingly randomly (to me at least) go back out of true at random intervals, no matter if I've lined everything up identically to my previous settings. As a result, I have to go back and painstakingly true it up with the stone truer- at first a pucker inducing maneuver but as time went on it's gotten less stressful. Yay I guess. Each pass of the truer is money lost down the drain, in far greater quantities than just normal wear and tear would ever do, no matter how light the passes are.

In summary: the more expensive stone has almost 2x the wobble and 2x sloppier tolerances, resulting in increased sharpening time, increased stone wear (due to occasional truings), and general annoyance each time I switch stones. I feel like this shouldn't be a problem for an almost 500 dollar piece of equipment.

I'd be curious to hear other ideas/input.

If you can figure out the thread pitch/size, mcmaster carr has EVERYTHING.

The fellow insists he's following protocols, and mentioned that he's been in correspondence with the BESS team as well. Interesting.

Wait, there are two Kens now?? Jokes aside this is excellent news. Thanks to both of you for keeping this place running smoothly!