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Hello all,

I recently watched the same video, and was wondering if a silicon carbide sanding belt backed by a flat plate of some kind in the square edge jig would work as well. The sandpaper is on the way, and I'll write an update once it gets here. I think this method, if it works, may be more economical while at the same time providing high quality material, and a greater range of grit sizes.

Cheers from mud city.

PS

There are a bunch of different options, ranging from ceramic, silicon carbide, zirconia, and aluminum oxide. I'm going with the silicon carbide, but I'd be curious if any of you think another option would work better.

Regarding self centering clamp- I've seen something like this used in a machinist's shop before. It's a relatively simple mechanism- two opposite thread pitches guide a ram along two exterior rails. If we could figure out a way to miniaturize this, and perhaps recess and angle the jaws so they don't interfere, I think we would be set. The problem would be ensuring the mechanism doesn't get in the way of the stone.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.spreitzer.de%2Fen%2Fclamping-technology%2Fcentre-clamping-vises%2F&psig=AOvVaw3Rbg-rf8IDQ8XefezsU019&ust=1611008691047000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCIjUgKSBpO4CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD

Extrapolating from this setup, something along these lines would be might be simpler. The black bit remains exactly in the middle at all times. If we attach the post to the rear of the equivalent black bit, and cut reliefs in the jaws, I think this could very well work. A friend of mine is a machinist, but I'm afraid I have just about zero budget right now (t8 and KG purchases.) Anyway that's my very amateur two bits.

Thank you Rick!

Yes, I'm reading the KG edge de-burring book. Thanks for the info- from the reading and the extensive SEM images in the KB book, it seems the diamond wheel is the better method for grinding carbides as opposed to the steel matrix itself. Unfortunately the diamond process above is a little out of my current budget.

Hello everybody- me again. As many of you suggested, I've read back through the forums looking for anything about trailing edge honing techniques, and have learned a ton. And yes, I probably have too much free time on my hands... there's a lot of information out there. I still have some questions, however.
   This is what I%u2019ve gleaned thus far. It seems the minimum wallet hurty process that yields better results then my current setup would be:
   
   SG250 @220  SG250 @1000 SJ250 @4000 the KG rock hard felt wheel with the FVB & software using controlled angle honing with the 1u diamond spray.
   What a mouthful. In regards to the felt wheel- due to the special qualities of the felt, I think the recommended honing angle is one to one and a half degrees steeper then normal, which removes the burr %u201Cat the source.%u201D I could also be entirely incorrect about all of this.
There are so many different recommendations and techniques bouncing around in my overstuffed brain that I wanted to run this by the experts before taking the plunge.

One last note- I keep seeing japanese water stones made by "sun tiger japan." Anybody have any experience with these?

Does this make sense thus far? Any glaringly obvious mistakes/mixups?

PS
The sharpening book just came in literally minutes ago! Holy cow it's amazing. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction everybody.

Hello again- thanks again for all the info. The book everybody mentioned is on the way. I've posted a poll about the best course of action. From what I've gathered the final option seems to be the consensus from knife grinders AG and various other people, but I've also seen everything else. Any input is always massively appreciated.

Thank you for the info, good to know.

Very interesting!

I wonder how a solid carbide blade would hold up. I've also read about monocrystaline steel- apparently there's a special way of cooling the molten steel so that instead of tons of little bits and bobs, one crystal structure forms.

Hello everybody- me again. As many of you suggested, I%u2019ve read back through the forums looking for anything about trailing edge honing techniques, and have learned a ton. And yes, I probably have too much free time on my hands... there%u2019s a lot of information out there. I still have some questions, however.
   This is what I%u2019ve gleaned thus far. It seems the minimum wallet hurty process that yields better results then my current setup would be:
   
   SG200 @220 %u2014> SG200 @1000 %u2014> SJ250 @4000 %u2014> the KG rock hard felt wheel with the FVB & software using controlled angle honing with the 1u diamond spray.
   What a mouthful. In regards to the felt wheel- due to the special qualities of the felt, I think the recommended honing angle is one to one and a half degrees steeper then normal, which removes the burr %u201Cat the source.%u201D I could also be entirely incorrect about all of this.
There are so many different recommendations and techniques bouncing around in my overstuffed brain that I wanted to run this by the experts before taking the plunge.

I%u2019d probably still use the sg200 on the T4 I have now for a bit before getting the SG250, if at all. I find that most of the time, the 220 grit isn%u2019t even necessary. So I%u2019d essentially be using the t4 for rougher grinding up to 1k, and then the t8 for 4k and the felt wheel.

One last note- I keep seeing japanese water stones made by "sun tiger japan." Anybody have any experience with these?

Does this make sense thus far? Any glaringly obvious mistakes/mixups?

Thank you again Rick. I'm yet again blown away by the kindness of those on this forum- thank you all for taking time out of your new years day to discuss sharpening minutiae in great detail, for a random stranger on the internet. Thanks everybody- I'll check out everything recommended. Cheers from cold new england, and best wishes for the new year.

Thank you so much Rick! Very good to know. For the sake of the wallet- is the SB necessary? Or would the SG->SJ->felt work?

Copy, Jeff. Understood. Thank you for clarifying.

Thanks for all the info everybody!

Good to know about the grinding pressure/direction, Rick. What's a good source for felt wheels? I can't seem to find any decent ones the right size. In tandem with the SJ, would you use diamond paste? If so, what grit? I've worked with pretty much every kind of hand stone- arkansas, japanese water stone, diamond, silicon, etc, but I've never used felt wheels before. I assume they're essentially very hard honing wheels? The hardness sounds great- I've always found that squishier/more padded materials like leather never left as good an edge as bare MDF or float glass/sandpaper.

Whoops, good catch. Thank you.

Great idea, thank you. Any input on the sj250 vs diamond?

Thank you Jeff-

Ah, that makes sense. Sharpening direction would be crucial. Agreed- the sg200 is definitely nice for standard sharpening. That's the thing- anybody can do standard sharpening, I'd like to be the above and beyond person who they go to for supreme sharpness and ease of use. I think either the SJ250 or the xf diamond wheel can do that. These people are not looking for the "average joe" sharpening. Thank you for the suggestion about the package deal- do you think it would be worthwhile to get duplicates of the turning tool? I already have one from the t4, which is why I was looking at the stripped version. I'm in touch from Wolfgang from advanced machinery- an excellent human who is very reasonable with regards to the stripped t8 pricing.