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Topics - bnlsrv

#1
General Tormek Questions / oil on the La-100
March 24, 2007, 11:46:02 PM
Howdie all,
First I want to confirm that I use honing compound on the La-100 profiled leather wheel.
Secondly, for the 1st time use of this wheel, am I to use oil on it before putting on the compound similar to the black honing wheel or just put on the compound?

Thank you.
#2
Also, what tips are there for feeling the right angle as I'm honing the edge?
When do I know I'm done?
Any other tips - the dvd that came with this is great, but I could use a little more coaching on the honing of the knife edge, etc.
#3
for a sit down Tormek sharpening stand they could pass along? Seems the ideal height of the top of the grinding wheel is about waist high. So far, I haven't been able to figure on a design where my legs won't be bumping into it.
Bill
#4
Anyone try sharpening tin snips? I believe mine are offset, aviation wiss snips. Or Malco.
Would the scissors technique work? Mark with a Magic marker, etc for the angle.
Thank you
Bill
#5
Planer Blade Sharpening / Sharp and matched!
May 13, 2004, 01:32:44 AM
Well, after speaking with Jeff, I was able to get those planer blades matched. Very little wave - near perfect. I guess the problem was not keeping my hands over the wheel while grinding. Also, very little uneven wear on the stone - though still more on the hone wheel side. I also trued the wheel a little different this time - didn't try to compensate for the slant on the universal support. One other thing was removing the pin on the blade holder so that I could get as much overlap as possible on my 13 in blades.
I think next time I can nail this in a timely manner.
I also think Jeff should write his own book on how to do this stuff- he's got a lot of know how and experience. :)
#6
I retrued the wheel. Confirmed that the base jig will lay flat across the entire surface (had a thumbwheel difference of '4'). I wasn't willing to take off half a thumbwheel (Jeff's suggestion) because I've already taken these blades down pretty far with all of the problems I'm having. $54 for the set of 3. Put the blade on the jig, confirmed the setting with the paper across the stone. Turned the both wheels up 2 numbers - the stone will not grind off the edges, continue to get a smile in the blade. I've tried 'playing with the stops', nothing has helped. I've gone back and forth 10 minutes. After finishing the ten minutes the hone wheel side of the stone is lower by .010. I'm placing my hands evenly across the 6 inch blade - I've tried them on the black knobs, & below the black knobs. Far as I know I"m pressing evenly. I'm beginning to suspect a faulty stone that is wearing unevenly - .010 in ten minutes. Is that possible? With that kind of uneven wear (opposite side is not wearing like the hone wheel side) I can't see how I'm going to get the blades to be straight. Another couple of hours shot. I await further instructions. I'll try grinding them at the existing setting for another 10 minutes in case I'm not doing it long enough.
#7
Sorry for ventilating  :-[.
Is it normal after doing 3 jointer blades and 1 double edge planer blade to have to true the wheel 3 times during the proceess?
Is it normal for the wheel to wear at the edges, more so on the hone wheel side, rather then evenly across?
My wheel went from 248 to 245 mm in this session, is that normal?
Do you have to check for trueness after every pass?

Looking for answers, 'cuz I hate letting things beat me.
#8
Jeff, can you give me some tips on honing? ???
How much pressure do you use?
Is the last strop lighter then the first?
Can you make a knife dull by honing at the wrong angle?
How do I know if I'm at the right angle when I'm doing it freehand as shown in your video?
How do I know when I need to put more compound on?

I got the chisels sharp though - still waiting for my 3rd cut to heal! :-[
Bill
#9
General Tormek Questions / Using the Stone grader
April 18, 2004, 04:18:48 PM
I was just wondering about a few things in regards to using the stone grader. Should I be concerned about how the stone will wear out- should I put pressure in the middle, front or rear part of the stone as it contacts the supergrind wheel?

How much if any does the stone grader wear out the wheel?

Finally, if you have to do a number of chisels, do you do all of them at 220, and then do all of them at the finer grade, or do you do them one at a time regrading the stone after each chisel? ???
#10
While trying to set up the jointer blades after sharpening I noticed that each blade (3) had a tapered grind, about 1 inch long. All on the same side for each blade. At its widest (outer edge) it's about 1/64th inch.
When I trued the stone with the diamond device, and then switched to the planer / jointer attachment I noticed that the bar didn't really sit square in relation to the wheel - I had to really "force" it down on one side and screw the holder knobs down in order to hold it there. Even after doing that I still wasn't sure if the planer attachment was square to the wheel.

Anybody have a similar problem?
Bill ???
#11
Having read the book, and planer / jointer jig instructions I don't see what grit the stone should be at when I sharpen my jointer blade. Anyone know? ???
#12
I just got the tormek system. I noticed on my wifes pinking shears that it's at an angle greater then the 75 degree on the angle gauge. Now what do I do to set this up for sharpening? ???