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Messages - bnlsrv

#1
General Tormek Questions / Re:oil on the La-100
March 26, 2007, 09:39:00 PM
Thanks for the help Mr Farris!
#2
General Tormek Questions / oil on the La-100
March 24, 2007, 11:46:02 PM
Howdie all,
First I want to confirm that I use honing compound on the La-100 profiled leather wheel.
Secondly, for the 1st time use of this wheel, am I to use oil on it before putting on the compound similar to the black honing wheel or just put on the compound?

Thank you.
#3
Thanks Jeff for all your expertise!
#4
So, I would think then, that you start out flat and continue to check the edge, bring it at a greater angle until you see it start to remove the scratches?

When am I done honing - when all the scratches are gone?
Is there a certain "feel" to it when you're at the right angle?

#5
General Tormek Questions / Re:Magnets in the Water
August 17, 2005, 02:57:13 AM
I epoxied mine smack dab in the middle - on the outside, at the bottom.
#6
Also, what tips are there for feeling the right angle as I'm honing the edge?
When do I know I'm done?
Any other tips - the dvd that came with this is great, but I could use a little more coaching on the honing of the knife edge, etc.
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re:lopers are a pain!
August 14, 2005, 08:15:02 PM
Ed, what's a loper?
#8
Setting the Tormek on a 5 gallon bucket is the perfect height for sitting, with my legs straddling the grinder. Now I have to build a cabinet with drawer slides so that I can put the grinder away under my work bench when done. I'll send pictures if anyone is interested.
#9
I took apart my snips and got a pretty good edge. One side I was able to use the Svd-110 to help keep the right angle. The other side was too difficult to do using any jigs or supports. But, they cut like a dream now! ;D


As I look at my other snips the edge appears to be flat so is there any problem using the side of the stone to do this free hand, rather then the top of the stone?
#10
Planer Blade Sharpening / Re:Now it's summer...
August 14, 2005, 02:28:20 AM
That video would be awesome. I had a bit of trouble getting that right, so I'd love to see it.
#11
for a sit down Tormek sharpening stand they could pass along? Seems the ideal height of the top of the grinding wheel is about waist high. So far, I haven't been able to figure on a design where my legs won't be bumping into it.
Bill
#12
Anyone try sharpening tin snips? I believe mine are offset, aviation wiss snips. Or Malco.
Would the scissors technique work? Mark with a Magic marker, etc for the angle.
Thank you
Bill
#13
Planer Blade Sharpening / Sharp and matched!
May 13, 2004, 01:32:44 AM
Well, after speaking with Jeff, I was able to get those planer blades matched. Very little wave - near perfect. I guess the problem was not keeping my hands over the wheel while grinding. Also, very little uneven wear on the stone - though still more on the hone wheel side. I also trued the wheel a little different this time - didn't try to compensate for the slant on the universal support. One other thing was removing the pin on the blade holder so that I could get as much overlap as possible on my 13 in blades.
I think next time I can nail this in a timely manner.
I also think Jeff should write his own book on how to do this stuff- he's got a lot of know how and experience. :)
#14
I'll call Monday morning. I think the problem may be how much pressure I"m putting on the jig when I grind, and perhaps a stone problem. Not sure about the stone because I might be the problem. On a positive note - the blades are absolutely razor sharp! I got most of the wave out - just one end is usually high, but again it might be how much pressure I'm putting on this at the beginning of the grind. I look forward to speaking with you about this and perhaps we can figure this out. I think that once I get the hang of this it is really going to save me time not taking my blades in for sharpening.  :) I'm working with free, construction oak - from lining tunnels, etc, so it's pretty  dirty and hard on the blades.
#15
Checked the wear on the stone this morning. Inner edge is more worn by .010, used machinist square and feeler gauge. Outside diameter of stone went from 245 mm to 243mm, can't really check the inside w/o taking the stone off. Ran the jig down without the blade on to check if I can make the jig parallel with the stone - not possible anymore. Too much worn on the inner edge. I'd take the stone off and turn it around to see if the problem follows to the other side but it looks like that's not possible with the indention of the stone.

If I retrue this stone again -
Where should the stops go?
How much pressure should I use?
I have the blade in the middle of the holder, where should I place my hands?

I'm running out of blade on this one, not sure I can go at this again. This was the first one I tried originally, when I had the trouble with the squareness of the jig.