Topics

I have been held hostage by using Vadim's angle calculation program.
I had the app on my IPhone but it went swimming.
Knife Grinder website is still up but I believe no longer supported
The app is no longer available and the tech experts could not transfer it to my new phone.
I have read a little about (I believe "TormekCalc"?) and would like to find a new program for precision bevel grinding.
Would appreciate any advice/guidance from the forum.
Thanks

My iPhone was damaged ?so I had to replace it.
Did the cloud thing for backup.
The Angle Setter app from KG did not transfer and is no longer available in the App Store (for Apple products).
Does anyone have any advice or knowledge of a different program?
Thanks

I have been contemplating getting a T1 for traveling for my and my fellow glampers.
Has anyone had any practical experience with this machine and/or a BESS score from the 600 diamond/composite honing combo?
I do not expect to obtain consistent sub 100 blades as can be done with the multi wheel and deburring protocols, but anything less than 200 is probably better than most folks knives were when they were out of the box.
Thanks

Has anyone tried CBN wheels for high carbon Japanese knife steel (Aogami Super etc)? Thanks

Has anyone tried CBN wheels for high carbon Japanese knife steel (Aogami Super etc)? Thanks

Has any one used and CBN wheels on high carbon Japanese knives.
I could not find any directly addressing this.
I have had high success using CBN on mainstream (VG10, D2, 440 SPM etc).
I recently acquired a very nice Masakage Koishi in Aogami Super.
I do not need to work it yet, but will at some point.
I am not physically deft enough to use the traditional water stones (hence Tormek T8).
Thanks

I have been asked to restore some knives for a friend.
They were her husband's (passed away).
One of them is a Deba.
Heavy tapered blade, concave back.
I watched Wootz's video and gave it a try.
Could only get 123 BESS and the bevel was noticeably wider at the heel
Used popsicle sticks to help even the concave on the back.
Anyone else have any luck with Deans?
Would be interested in your technique.
Thanks

Was wondering.....can the grindstones be mounted to turn in either direction?

I have seen several posts regarding the addition of bushing to the drive wheel on the T7 and T8.
I have tried some tape on the drive wheel of my T4 but it only a temporary thing as the tape soon disintegrates..
Does anyone have any info on an advanced war we trough for the T4?
Thanks

I have been sharpening knives for friends and family for a while, consistently producing sub100 BESS blades.
I have encountered a set of cheap "Stainless China" steak knives that are making me crazy.
They had blades that were semi serrated on one side. Complaint was that they were tearing the meat, not slicing it.
I have encountered similar blade before and taken the "serrations" off with a belt then sharpened them per usual on the Tormek with very good results.
On these "blades from hell" I cannot get any sort of edge.
I have tried different angles, honing at a slightly greater and lesser angles
I have been using Wootz's angle control and a T4 220/1000, leather wheel and paper wheel with diamond paste
I believe I have encountered the only known set of knives made from unobtanium.
Open to any suggestions.
Thanks

I have been attempting to upgrade my skills and equipment following Wootz's book and web site.
Initial results are positive with the exception of my bevels.
One side is noticeably wider than the other.
My test blade is over 2x thicker than the SVM45 offset which I suspect is the problem.
If I understand Knife Grinder's recommendations, I need to have several SVM45s, each with a different degree of increasing machined offset.
Assuming I can find a qualified machinist, this could get cumbersome quickly.
I believe I can deal with very thin blades by using painters tape, but too thick evades me
Looking for some advice on how to deal with this issue.
Thanks

As a famous commentator once said "now, for the rest of the story".
I now have two Woodturners Wonders CBN wheels for my TormekT4 - yea!
I even managed to expand the arbors to fit the T4 shaft (that's another story).
So here I go on my inaugural test run. Plan is;
a. Several runs on the SG 200 (at 220 grit)
b. Several runs on the CBN 600 and 1000.
c. A couple of passes on the SJ200.
d. Angle guided honing on the leather wheel.
EXCEPT, the CBNs, which I planned on using with a Honerite mixture, are too large (by a couple of mm) for my water trough.
I ground off the small protrusion on the bottom of the pan - to no avail.
I called the Tormek folks hoping to find a deeper pan, but they told me TS, do not use anything but Tormek stuff on the machine.
I would be happy to, but they do not make what I need or want.
Would appreciate any help.
I suppose I could get a T7 or T8 ($$$$$$$) and try the smaller wheels on them, but was trying to keep expenditures down.
Thanks

As a famous commentator once said "now, for the rest of the story".
I now have two Woodturners Wonders CBN wheels for my TormekT4 - yea!
I even managed to expand the arbors to fit the T4 shaft (that's another story).
So here I go on my inaugural test run. Plan is;
a. Several runs on the SG 200 (at 220 grit)
b. Several runs on the CBN 600 and 1000.
c. A couple of passes on the SJ200.
d. Angle guided honing on the leather wheel.
EXCEPT, the CBNs, which I planned on using with a Honerite mixture, are too large (by a couple of mm) for my water trough.
I ground off the small protrusion on the bottom of the pan - to no avail.
I called the Tormek folks hoping to find a deeper pan, but they told me TS, do not use anything but Tormek stuff on the machine.
I would be happy to, but they do not make what I need or want.
Would appreciate any help.
I suppose I could get a T7 or T8 ($$$$$$$) and try the smaller wheels on them, but was trying to keep expenditures down.
Thanks

I purchased a Tornado CBN wheel for my T4:
Arbor is slightly too small.
Manufacturers specs calls for a 12 mm arbor
Mine mics at 11.63mm.
My T4 shaft is 11.89.
Any ideas on how to slightly enlarge the arbor?

I have been using my T4 almost exclusively for knife (kitchen, work, edc, etc) and have become what I thought was fairly proficient at creating a very sharp edge - paper cut, fingernail test, arm hair shaving.
I almost always use a 20 deg/side bevel for simplicity sake (and my forgetfulness).
Most (if not all) the knives have high quality steel.
When I touch up the blades, depending on the shape, I usually just polish them on the leather wheel, separate paper wheel or razor strop (lightly) - if needed, I will lightly touch them up on the 1000 SG200 followed by polishing to remove the burr..
I have tried to religiously follow the guide and the several videos.
Problem is, the blades do not seem to retain that fine edge for long.
I hand wash/dry and keep them on magnetic holders.
Any advice and or thoughts would be appreciated.

Hello,
New to the forum and first post.
A few years ago a friend gave me a T4.
I have read the manual, watched numerous UTube demos, practiced on old knives and think that I do a relatively nice job of knife sharpening - mainly kitchen, utility, EDC and sporting.
My SG200 stone is now about 190mm and after a recent sharpening period, has a pronounced "bulge", as in out of round.
I am not sure how this happened as I consciously keep even pressure on the blades and stone (when dressing).
When I attempted to use the diamond dressing jig it was a disaster, not removing the "bulge" and cutting irregular grooves on the wheel.
Fortunately I had a spare SG200 and have had no issues, but would not want to replicate the previous experience.
Has anyone else had this issue?
Causes?
Technique?
Thanks.