Hello,
a lot of posts recently mentioned that for succesful deburring is necessary to have paper wheels, felt wheels, diamond sprays etc. I'll go against the flow, because it's possible to achieve exceptional sharp edges without any honing. With proper technique, exact angle settings and pressure when sharpenning you can get burrless apex and use honing for the final blade finishing but not for burr removing. Please note that this is not against felt wheels etc., it is just an advice that it is possible to achieve much better results than is expected, with proper technique only. Maybe it can help you to save some money to other toys.
I have to say that a good microscope is recomended for the observations what's going on the edge while sharpening. At this moment I have one with magnification 120x only which isn't too much to see a small burr, but it's still helpful if you know what are you looking for. Higher magnification (300x) is much better.
Now a few links to Pavol Šandor youtube channel, where is shown how the edge looks after sharpening, the last used stone is Tyrolit F1200 (3 µm), which is equivalent grit to JIS 4000 = Tormek SJ-250. On older videos (with tests) is the last used stone Tyrolit F400 (17 µm), which is equivalent grit to JIS 1000. I emphasize that no honing is used for the tested knives!
Finally, I would like to say that his videos inspire me a lot to think about my sharpening technique, changes and equipment which I really need. I am still far away from his skill but I hope that someday...
Spyderco - BOW RIVER - 8Cr13MoV - 30°: https://youtu.be/NXz7WB_qhqk?t=87
OPINEL 10 Carbone - "V" sharpening 30°: https://youtu.be/Z9TZ6rDXUIo?t=36
Rockstead RYO ZDP189 66.7HRc - "V" sharpening 35°: https://youtu.be/Iz5POMT0878?t=200
MORA FROSTS 9153PG 30° Tormek Tyrolit 17µm: https://youtu.be/OpeIyJXSebk?t=25
jvh
a lot of posts recently mentioned that for succesful deburring is necessary to have paper wheels, felt wheels, diamond sprays etc. I'll go against the flow, because it's possible to achieve exceptional sharp edges without any honing. With proper technique, exact angle settings and pressure when sharpenning you can get burrless apex and use honing for the final blade finishing but not for burr removing. Please note that this is not against felt wheels etc., it is just an advice that it is possible to achieve much better results than is expected, with proper technique only. Maybe it can help you to save some money to other toys.
I have to say that a good microscope is recomended for the observations what's going on the edge while sharpening. At this moment I have one with magnification 120x only which isn't too much to see a small burr, but it's still helpful if you know what are you looking for. Higher magnification (300x) is much better.
Now a few links to Pavol Šandor youtube channel, where is shown how the edge looks after sharpening, the last used stone is Tyrolit F1200 (3 µm), which is equivalent grit to JIS 4000 = Tormek SJ-250. On older videos (with tests) is the last used stone Tyrolit F400 (17 µm), which is equivalent grit to JIS 1000. I emphasize that no honing is used for the tested knives!
Finally, I would like to say that his videos inspire me a lot to think about my sharpening technique, changes and equipment which I really need. I am still far away from his skill but I hope that someday...
Spyderco - BOW RIVER - 8Cr13MoV - 30°: https://youtu.be/NXz7WB_qhqk?t=87
OPINEL 10 Carbone - "V" sharpening 30°: https://youtu.be/Z9TZ6rDXUIo?t=36
Rockstead RYO ZDP189 66.7HRc - "V" sharpening 35°: https://youtu.be/Iz5POMT0878?t=200
MORA FROSTS 9153PG 30° Tormek Tyrolit 17µm: https://youtu.be/OpeIyJXSebk?t=25
jvh