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Very nice job !

Thanks

After testing out regrinding on a couple of junk knives, I reground the customers knife to the best of my ability (and I was pretty scared of cocking it up) I too a picture and sent to the customer who was really happy so I sharpened it and will deliver it tomorrow.

The thing is, the tip has been rounded out by removing metal, so there is no real way to bring everything back to how it should be. If you want to restore the angle of the tip as it was initially, the best option would probably be to sand one or two millimeters out of the entire height of the blade end, at the original angle.

As it is heavy work, and probably not that important, I would go the belt sander or wheel side way for just a tiny bit to reduce the bevel at the tip and bring it closer to a point.

Then sharpen it as required. You may have to lift the tip a tiny bit, and/or pivot slightly, depending on how the bevel goes at the tip.

Lifting does not round out the tip if done properly, keeping the tip clear from the stone's shoulders until the end. But it should barely be required here, as the edge does not curve upward too much.  If anything, lifting increases the angle, so it reduces bevel height, which is exactly what you want in this case at the tip. Don't pivot away from you too much.

I think knife restoration experts such as @Kwakster will have dealt with much worse and could provide useful insight...

Thanks for the information, I'll give it a try.

A customer asked me if I could fix his Kiritsuke tip as someone had previously rounded it. I am not sure the best approach, do I just sharpen it but don't lift the tip much until it's back to a point or should I just regrind it on a belt sander (I have a Ken Onion Work Sharp I can use on low speed)

I found how the knife should look so any suggestions are welcome.

 

I bought the SVD-110 Tool Rest and have been using it with the DF 250 to sharpen mower blades and its quick and really precise, no truing and I use the marker method (most blades are coming up between 35° - 40°. 

If the blade is uneven, I use the KJ45 with no problem.

I would love to see a video or pics of this.  It sounds like a great approach.

next time I sharpen on I will.

I bought the SVD-110 Tool Rest and have been using it with the DF 250 to sharpen mower blades and its quick and really precise, no truing and I use the marker method (most blades are coming up between 35° - 40°. 

If the blade is uneven, I use the KJ45 with no problem.

Great link     

Thanks

I hope this doesn't come off as arrogant or disrespectful but I am very surprised at a lot of the replies to this question. I have spoken to a few of my engineer friends and they have the same opinion, a machine that has jigs and is designed and sold as a "precision" sharpening system relies on "feel" for what I have read and watched as possibly the most important sharpening steps in the process. The KS-123 is sold as "KS-123 Knife Angle Setter, Set the exact sharpening angle for any type of knife" that's from Tomek's web site and the micro adjust on the US for precision and all the machines, this from the T8 page, "Exact repeatability– sharpen your tools with unbeatable precision"

So with all of this "precision" why leave the honing, which is probably the most important part of sharpening, to be done by hand? surely you would want this as controlled as possible, especially since you can negate all the work done in the sharpening stage by a very basic mistake by rolling over the edge and having to start all over again. As a certified Professional Plant Based Chef who now is trying to start a sharpening business, I sharpened my Japanese knives on stones and although I felt like I did a pretty good job at sharpening them, the finish and edge consistency I get from my T8 is nothing short of spectacular and my knives keep a sharp edge way longer than when I free hand.

As I said in the beginning, my goal is not to offend or disrespect anyone and maybe I shouldn't have asked the same question multiple times as I have gotten some great information from this forum but, I feel a controlled honing system would out perform a freehand one, the guy's at Tormek even say so in their videos.

I hope this post is taken in the spirit of education on my part and as mentioned in my previous posts, a 250mm honing wheel would negate the need to remove the grinding wheel when using the KS-123 to set the same angle when honing using the US, this may only work with the diamond wheels as the do not change in diameter, not sure how that would work on the stone wheels as they get smaller. Thanks.

I am interested but don't know how to PM you.

Great video, nice and calm.

Have a look at https://schleifjunkies.de/produkt/lederrad-250x35mm-raue-oberflaeche/

Hope this helps!

Thanks, I appreciate the link

I did a search on the forum but didn't find any answers so I decided to ask here, I have honestly tried to hone free hand and not with any success, it gets frustrating to sharpen a knife with a great edge and then mess it up on the honing side. I have watched lots of videos bit I still seem to take the sharpness out of the knife but when I hone with the USB and KS-123, my results are perfect and I couldn't be happier. Obviously, I have to keep taking my wheel off to hone most of the knives so I was wondering if anyone has bought and tried a 10 inch honing wheel and the results. I have watched some videos from different YouTubers and I am impressed watching them move from sharpening to honing without removing any wheels.

Thanks

You have asked this quite a few times already. The main problem is that a larger honing wheel gets in the way of the grinding wheel for longer knives. It is not a problem for shorter knives but as soon as you want to grind a 6 inch or longer blade the honing wheel gets in the way. This is exactly why the honing wheel is a smaller diameter. There isn't really any way around this.
As Ken says, you can change the set up a little for honing. This is one possibility but I think you will still have a problem as this time the grinding wheel will get in the way of honing for longer knives!

This old discontinued model gets round this problem by having the wheels further apart. It was a special model designed specifically for knives
https://www.ricardo.ch/de/a/tormek-pr-250-mit-stein-sg-250-220-1220356278/

If you still want to use the USB support bar for honing then a better solution is to hone on another machine...

... Like I said to you previously. Here is the link again

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?msg=40820

Danny

Sorry, I was hoping for a suggestion for a workaround. I will pay more attention to my posts going forward.

Thanks Ken, that is pretty much my set up but on most knives 8" or longer, I hit the DF 250 as I move to the tip. I will include some photos when I get off work.

Thanks

I did a search on the forum but didn't find any answers so I decided to ask here, I have honestly tried to hone free hand and not with any success, it gets frustrating to sharpen a knife with a great edge and then mess it up on the honing side. I have watched lots of videos bit I still seem to take the sharpness out of the knife but when I hone with the USB and KS-123, my results are perfect and I couldn't be happier. Obviously, I have to keep taking my wheel off to hone most of the knives so I was wondering if anyone has bought and tried a 10 inch honing wheel and the results. I have watched some videos from different YouTubers and I am impressed watching them move from sharpening to honing without removing any wheels.

Thanks