Messages

cb,
The knife you presented will likely have issues since it looks like the angle-setter doesn't fit on the primary grind surface. The design of the blade, with a thick back/spine, with a relatively small blade and with a, what it looks like, a hollow-grind primary bevel before the secondary bevel makes it difficult to use the WM-200.

What is important when sharpening a knife like this is to sharpen at the same edge angle every time once you have created an angle that is suitable for the use of it. And it is easy to repeat that angle with the marker method.

I will say it again, the WM-200 works on most common blades, I agree that it doesn't work on 100% of all the thousands of blades that are out there. There is no quick-fix to compensate for all of the knife blade designs in the world.
But also have in mind that the design of the WM-200 is for most common edge tools that we can sharpen with the system.

Best,
Stig

Fair enough. 


I'll give you my answer.... if a person wants to use, or only has, the WM-200.   

(Sorry picture is small to meet the file size requirement).


If the knife is ground the same on both sides, you can do this...

1.  Find a flat surface.  Loosen the angle side knob and lay the AngleMaster on the surface as shown.  (The wheel side should be tight, the setting doesn't matter).  Record the measurement (in this case 19°).

2. Lay the knife on the surface with the area of the knife you're measuring to, flat on the surface.
3. Don't use the flat portion of the blade, if there is one.

4.  Now lay the AngleMaster on the bevel (keeping the angle knob loose), and record this measurement (in this case 33°).

5.  Subtract the 2 numbers 33-19=14, and divide by 2 = 7°.  Add this number to the AngleMaster setting... so if you want the knife sharpened at 20° set the AngleMaster at 27°.

I'd say, you'll be within +- a degree.  (I did the math on this one with a "triangle calculator"... the knife is 3.1mm thick and the side is 11.95mm, which came out to 14.9°, or about 7.5°per side).

(Sounds complicated, but the math most can do in their head, and it's really pretty easy). 
(Ken will be along to talk about targets, but this is easier IMO).

Obviously, there's other ways... I'm sticking with the WM-200 only here.

You just blew my mind

I've always been skeptical of this process of using a higher angle.  Seems to me one still has to take the same amount of steel off one way or the other and the SG stone is just not that aggressive, regardless of coarse grading or truing. 

For me, the fastest/best way to remove chips and/or repair tips is with a standard high speed grinding wheel fitted to run on a Tormek, in the water bath.  Or by using a variable speed belt grinder set at its slowest speed to make controlling the heat easier.  A standard high speed grinding wheel is very affordable (under $100 and often around $50) and takes only a minimal amount of fitting to work.  I use the Tormek truing tool to dress it.  Ken S. has long advocated this and has described his method of reaming out some PVC pipe to fit the 12mm shaft and using fender washers as spacers and flange washers. 

what type of grinding wheel and where would you find such a thing? for the high speed grinding wheel.  Thanks

Rick

Hello guys, I am new to the forum. I recently purchased m Tormek T8 and was having a bit of trouble with the SVM45 jig. I did some research on it which led me here. I found a thread regarding a mod made to the jig, I don't recall who originally came up with this mod? (Thank you by the way!!) Anyway I went ahead and made the modification myself and YouTubed it. Sorry if this was already done but I never found a video showing how to do this mod so I did one. If this is not the right place for this then of course feel free to delete it or move it as the moderators see fit. Here is a link to the video for anyone interested in making this mod:

https://youtu.be/nWOJxqN2yxo

Great Video. Enjoyed watching it. Wish i had the means to make something like that. Subbed to your channel.

Hi guys,

This is how I finish serrated knives. Works much better than expected.

Its freehand, and have access to leather honing wheel as well.

Its just M12 rod with coupler.

Made two versions, 20 and 33cm, to match knife length and depending on which side are serations to clear handle.


Very cool idea

Thinking to make adapter so i can remove bigger wheel and have access to tiny wheel for pocket knife serations.

Always nice to use Tormek original accessories.