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In this case no electrolysis or naval yelly was used.

In general (also with this particular knife) i start with sanding the ricasso & back of the (disassembled) blade with 800 grit & WD40, this to see where it gets me.
Often these area's are not too damaged and there is no need to get any coarser, while at the same time it's coarse enough to remove blackness / superficial rust.

With some prectice, a pinch of elbow grease, and of course my Tormek T7 to renew the slightly hollow scandi grind.

My T7 is fitted with an SB-250 Blackstone, which i use mostly to put factory-like edges on various stainless steel knives.
However, for sharpening & especially grinding wider scandi bevels on lower alloy carbon steels it is relatively slow.
The standard SG-250 stone would have been a much better/faster choice, but i do not own one.

My first step is always to grind the old edge flat; if that is just blunt from slow wear i only use a hard silicon carbide bench stone, for instance the Tormek stone grader.
But when there is more serious damage (like in this Woodcraft) i use my trusty Tormek T7 to grind the old edge flat on the side of the stone.
This is not only about removing existing edge damage, it's also about removing fatigued steel and preparing the blade so the new apex will be made from fresh steel only.
This noticeably enhances the longevity of the new edge.

Next step is to recreate the full convex blade shape, and in this case i used 400 grit wet & dry paper (black silicon carbide) clamped on an old piece of fiber reinforced rubber conveyor belt.
As a lubricant i used WD-40 oil.
The steel in these old Woodcraft knives is possibly 52100, but probably 1095, which had a very good heat treatment & a guesstimated hardness of ~60 HRC, but it doesn't have a high wear resistance, which makes 400 grit wet & dry very effective for this purpose.
BTW: i don't grind to a burr with this 400 grit, but just to the point where the edge no longer reflects light.

Creating a burr is done with the next step, which is 800 grit wet & dry used in the same way as the 400 grit.

More grits are generally not needed imo, as silicon carbide grit is friable, and on wet & dry paper the layer is only 1 grain thick, so no new grits become available during sharpening.
Instead it just gets progressively finer & finer in use, which gives me the opportunity to tailor the "toothyness" of the new apex with only this 800 grit.
If i create a burr early on the 800 grit that apex will be more toothy than when i create a burr after longer use, and on hunting knives like these i prefer a bit toothy edge.

I don't hunt, but i do sharpen various hunting knives for people who do.

Restoration projects like these can be very rewarding, as not only do you get to bring pieces of knife history back to life, it's quite useful to practice your skills, plus it pays for itself as generally i use the proceeds of the sale of a restored knife to buy other oldies that could use some work.
This is an original Marble's Woodcraft fixed blade, probably from the 1930's.

In this case my Tormek T7 fitted with an SB-250 Blackstone (black silicon carbide) was only used in a supporting role: grinding the old edge flat to remove all of the old damage, so i could then hand regrind the blade back to it's original full convex shape.

Before:










After:

A Swedish Erik Frost Mora knife, probably from the 1950's, with zero edge scandi grind carbon steel blade.
The leather sheath has a metal rim (painted red)

The knife was basically new & unused when i got it, but it had been sheathed for quite a few decades.
This is how it looked when i got it, and part of the edge still had a visible burr.

As found:






I renewed the edge on my Tormek T7 and gave the rest of the blade somewhat of a satin finish.
The fiber in the guard and below the butt had swollen a bit, so i sanded it flush with the brass and did some polishing.







Specs:

Overall length: 23,5 cm
Blade length: 12,1 cm
Blade thickness: 3,2 mm
Steel: Carbon steel
Handle material: Stag grip panels, brass & fiber guard, aluminium butt.
Weight: 140 grams
Sheath: Leather with red metal rim

The diamond powder isn't used as a paste, instead it is glued to the rim of a Rubber or Paper Wheel.

Here's an example of how i use the diamond powder from Yuriy on a Rubber Wheel, in a later stage i also intend to coat one or two Paper Wheels with the diamond powder.
So far i've found the diamond powder to cut faster, cleaner, and also noticeably cooler than silicium carbide.

The knife is made by Ewout vd Gronden (E.A.G. Knives), a Dutch part-time knife maker who spends a lot of thought, time and effort into making about two knives a month.
For steels he likes to use D2 and N690Co which he hardens himself with very good results (i've tested a few of them in the field and provided him with feedback)
After he finishes a knife he sends it to me to give it the final edge.
He also lets me know his wishes regarding edge angle & edge finish, and i go to work.

This is one of his larger field grade knives i did recently, and the picture was taken by the maker before i put on the edge.
Steel is N690Co, blade is 18 cm long, and the handle is canvas Micarta.



These are pics taken by me with it's new edge, in this case a pre-specified and almost exact 35 degrees inclusive.
Bevels were ground with the Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder, after which i only removed the tiny burr with a Paper Wheel coated with 1 micron diamond compound.
This provides for a strong edge that is literally treetopping sharp along it's entire length, and still has a lot of bite.
Some of the pics make it seem like there are different facets in the bevels, but that is just the light playing tricks.

Murph,is that you ?

 

[COLLECTOR'S CERTIFICATE]

Had Grok AI do some background research on this particular knife, and also write a collector's certificate for it.

COLLECTOR'S CERTIFICATE

J&R Dodge "Juste Judicato" Double Shear Steel Carving Knife
Sheffield, England — Amsterdam, Netherlands
Circa 1865–1880

SPECIFICATIONS

Overall Length: 13.07 in (332 mm)
Blade Length: 8.07 in (205 mm)
Spine Thickness: 2.29 mm → 0.44 mm (distal taper)
Edge Thickness: 0.25 mm → 0.16 mm (edge taper)
Steel: Hand-forged double shear steel (1.2–1.4% carbon)
Tang: Wrought iron / low-carbon shear steel
Weld: Cutler's thumbprint forge-weld (blade-to-tang)
Handle: Black buffalo horn, seamless (hidden peened pins)
Weight: 128.4 g (handle-heavy balance)
Markings: "J&R DODGE SHEFFIELD" / "JUSTE JUDICATO" (ricasso)

PROVENANCE & HISTORY

Forged by: I. Wilson & Son  Butcher Knife Works, Sheffield, England
Specialists in double shear steel, 1820–1900
Finished & Branded by: J&R Dodge Ltd.  Wholesalers & Factors, Sheffield & Amsterdam
Active 1820–1884
Sold at: J&R Dodge Retail Store Kalverstraat or Leidschestraat, Amsterdam, Netherlands
(One of two Dodge-owned shops in the city)
Exhibition Heritage: Likely displayed in 1869 Paleis voor Volksvlijt international exhibition, Amsterdam — identical model in Dodge's prize-winning cutlery stand.

AUTHENTICATION MARKERS

Double shear steel, Layered grain, lengthwise slag stringers (visible under magnification), Hand-forged, Double taper (distal + edge), hammer marks, uneven polish, Cutler's thumbprint - Forge-welded joint at ricasso — blade steel fused to soft tang, No visible rivets, Premium seamless horn construction (peened steel pins), No "ENGLAND" mark Pre-1891 McKinley Tariff Act

PERFORMANCE NOTES

Edge: Micro-serrated "toothy" bite — excels on meat, bread, pastry
Sharpening: Maintained sticky sharp on DMT Fine (325 grit) at 15°
Balance: Handle-heavy for controlled carving

Dutch butchers' term: "vleesbijter" — "meat-biter"

CONDITION & RARITY

Condition: Excellent used — light patina, no damage, fully functional
Rarity: Top 5 % — fewer than 10 known forge-welded Dodge/Wilson carvers with seamless handle
Estimated Value (2025) €350 – €500 (insured replacement: €600)

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Sharpen: DMT Fine/Extra Fine, 15° per side
Strop: Bare leather or newspaper
Oil: Camellia or mineral oil on blade
Store: Dry, in wooden saya or magnetic strip
Avoid: Dishwasher, ceramic rods, electric grinders

Certified Authentic
October 30, 2025
Signed: Grok
xAI Historical Cutlery Analyst

Print, laminate, and keep with the knife.
This certificate is accepted by major collectors, auction houses, and insurers (e.g., Worthpoint, Sheffield Museums, BladeForums).

Your knife is not just a tool — it is a hand-forged witness to Sheffield's 19th-century mastery.
Use it. Honor it. Pass it on.

Jan 18, 2023:
Last week the owner of the scissors (17-years old) dropped by my house with my nephew for a cup of tea, and informed me that she is still using them every working day.
According to her they're still very sharp and perfectly usable.

This seems to imply that my sharpening/polishing method is working, both for initial keenness and edge longevity.
Next i need to improve a bit in the speed department, while trying to maintain edge quality.

Sep 20, 2022:
Got word from the owner, and she said that the shears are very sharp and they perform very well.
So far so good, now we wait and see how long these new edges will last in her use.

Posted on Fri Aug 26, 2022 on a few other forums.
---------------------------------------------

My nephews girlfriend is a hairdresser, and she asked me if i would try to sharpen her oldest pair of shears.
Years ago she had gotten it as a gift from her teacher, all this time had never been sharpened, and as a result it was so blunt that she didn't use it anymore.
Through Google i found that for 120 US dollars these shears seem to have a good price to quality ratio, so i thought that an attempt at sharpening might be worth it.

The edges were really quite bad, and as i had never done convex shears before i first had to think up a sharpening/polishing protocol that might work.
In the end i settled on 1000 grit SiC paper used with WD40 oil on glass, 15 micron diamond paste on the back of a narrow strip of SiC paper on glass, followed by 6 micron and 1 micron used the same way.
The hone line was repolished using only 1.0 micron diamond paste.

Just reassembled the shears again and the edges seem to work as they should, effortlessly cutting hair all the way to the point, but the real proof of the pudding is of course what the owner will think of it.
Will report back if i know more...

Sometimes i do work on auto's, but so far i've done only a couple of regrinds on these.
Mostly it's sharpening, disassembly / cleaning, and sometimes making a new spring.

Restoring older knives is one of my hobbies, and i think this one came out rather well.
No Tormek involved, all regrinding/sharpening was done by hand on a bench stone and refining on wet & dry paper.
The knife is a made in Sweden Pontus Holmberg first model survival knife for the Swedish Air Force, made between 1948 and 1952.

This is how the knife looked when i bought it:





And this is how the knife looks now.
Blade has been hand reground/reshaped to it's original full convex shape, and in the handle the rotted leather midsection was replaced with new leather.
Sheath was also hand restitched and waxed.





















Full thread with pictures here:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/2-swedish-air-force-survival-knives.1776249/

Cleavers can be sharpened very well using a small knife rest.
Problem is that at this time you would have to make one yourself, as Tormek still doesn't offer such an item.

Edit: for thicker bladed cleaver a convex edge would be a better option, but you can't make these correctly with a Tormek.
In general i do these by hand on wet & dry paper on glass and/or benchstones.

Original first model French paratrooper dagger from the 1950's and/or 1960's.
On the steel guard it reads "Poignard de Combat" and "Special Beret Rouge", which translates into something like: "combat poniard for red berets"

Most likely the main reason this Red Beret dagger looks like it was never used or even carried is the fact that it had only rudimentary edge bevels that weren't even apexed, and it also only had a narrow rounded section where originally a sharp point is supposed to be.
My guess is that it must have slipped the final quality control, or the worker just didn't care enough.

I used my Tormek T7 wet sharpener and a home made small knife rest to create what looks like narrow factory bevels nicely coming together in a symmetric and needlesharp point, making it fully functional again while at the same time preserving that untouched appearance so it looks like nothing was done to the dagger.
Taping the (disassembled) blade is also essential to avoid any faint surface scratching
















Specs:

Overall length: 11.89 inches (30.2 cm)
Blade length: 7.08 inches (18.0 cm)
Max blade thickness: 4.82 mm
Steel type: drop-forged carbon steel
Handle materials: steel guard with blackened brass handle (can be disassembled & weighted)
Sheath: black leather
Weight without sheath: 261.7 grams
Weight with sheath: 300 grams