Messages

To return to the OP, if reshaping HSS turning tools you should be prepared to use the grading/cleaning stone every couple of minutes.

T. lit. refers variously to the time needed but 10 mins sticks in the mind.  Use plenty of pressure.  Be prepared to use the top mount position for a faster cut but be very careful here with bevels over 45 degrees.  You risk the edge digging into the wheel.

Re diamond truing, the grooves should be left if you are doing reshaping; effectively they increase the pressure per sq. inch and so help, not hinder.  They'll be gone soon after a few wheel cleanings anyway.

HTH.

ps what's the SB wheel?  The black one?  It's just for touching up.  Reeeal slow.

K, have just done the inked bevel thing using the jig with the BGM in front of a dry grinder.  Reproducing what's there, which at the tip of the bevel is a few degrees more acute than the original 60º.

The A whole on the setter wouldn't do it.  I set the outside of the mount rod 58mm away from the wheel using the leg of a Vernier caliper pointing to the spindle.  JS 6, P 75.

Worked fine.  The wheel is a Woodcraft diamond #120 and it leaves a nice polish but oddly raises quite a burr.

HTH

Ken, can't see why you'd bother really as on a bench grinder the 3X runs cool and doesn't clog readily.  Doesn't need water; easy to dress.

The point of 3X is that the grains fracture to expose new, sharp, cutting edges.

This might well depend on the speed of the wheel.

+1 to that wheel. 

There are two bonds; mine's the harder one I think.  It's particularly good on Thompson V10 tools.

Despite the coarse grit it leaves a pretty good finish on the bevel.

Nothing like good edges on tools to make quality work easier.

While you can touch up the EWT cutters that way, I'd say the Easy Finisher bevel has been polished at the factory and can't be reproduced short of diamond paste on a jeweller's lapping wheel.

If memory serves, doesn't the manual say that the vertical orientation is an option.  And good for aggressive shaping?

Neat.

Thanks Jim.

Just came across your reply.

Same here.

Crown Ellsworth, 5/8".  Just attempting to reproduce the grind it has which I believe is close to the orig geometry.

To complete the grind of the left wing, the jig has to slide further to the left but can't because of the mount bar leg.

No problem with the BGM.

If the tab that connects the clamp mechanism to the sleeve was centred on it I'd say it'd work.

BUT, it all works when the mount bar is in the vertical position.  Jig setting #6, protrusion 75mm, bar distance setting at A.

Hi all,

Sun Tiger and Naniwa make aftermarket wheels in various grits.  

http://www.fine-tools.com/Tormek.html

Does anyone have any experience with these or others?

I recall reading some grumbles posted somewhere in webland about aftermarket wheels but can't find the source again.

TIA,

Ern

ADDED: apologies, I had done a search on 'aftermarket' and scanned the last few topic pages.  But Google delivered this:

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=897.0;wap2

Ionut, how's the wheel worked for you?

FWIW I over-oiled my wheel too before first use but just kept wiping with rags and paper towel.  Took lots of wipes with days between for oil to rise to the surface. 

It's also worth checking to see if the sides of the chisel or plane iron are parallel.

Well, that was only a 3/4" Marples firmer.  Then polishing out the scratch marks followed.  Yes, no sweat only if there's one but I rehab a few and lap to an inch back from the edge.

The Muji blades are exceptionally abrasion resistant, compared with Hock or Veritas even.

Hi Ionut,

Yep, I've spent a lot of time lapping using the std methods (diamond stones, PSA abrasives etc) and maybe I just got lucky with the side of the Tormek wheel.  After lapping I went to stones to complete the process and had no significant diff in flatness in the transition.

My Tormek wheel is a bit wobbly too but the blades followed it OK.

Course this was a 2 off only which is a shortcoming given the grading stone didn't work too well to clean the swarf.  Next step will be to try a dressing tool on the Jet side mount.

We're talking about HSS blades here which obviously demand more of an abrasive than HCS, but even with chisels in that it's taken me 1000 strokes to lap a good one like Marples or Titan.

Cool.  Thanks Jeff.

Did it freehand on the platform last time.  Good, but not good enough for a skew sharpening/performance comp'n that's coming up Downunder.

I want to get both sides evenly hollow ground so I can hand hone on stones to 8000 JIS.  heheh.  Macho sharpening.  Keep it under your hat ;-}

Too wide for the closed seat on the SVD50.

Any tips?

Was wondering whether the clamp screw would be enough to hold it with no seat at all.