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Or use the platform for small tools, maybe with some packing close to the wheel to allow the ferrule to clear.

Or just use the rod for support.

Update: the wheel face after truing certainly cuts faster.  That's compared with coarse grading.

I redid the big firmer and the edge is still distinctly out of square.  I took care to seat it against the correct shoulder.  (And the sides are parallel.  Well, there's 0.2 mm diff over the length).

Sure Jeff, but when you add say a 45 degree bevel that someone's done to a chisel to a nick or two, and it's a 1 1/2" firmer as this one was, wet is too slow.

The other thing that disappoints me is the mount end stop provided with the square edge jig.  With the end of the mount bar tapered, you really can't go to it anyway as the jig drops a bit.  Not a problem with the wet wheel as typically you're pressing down on the tool edge but that's unwise with a dry wheel.

I was looking forward to dealing with a bunch of second hand bench chisels.  The bevels were all over the place and edges were knicked.

So I starting reshaping the bevel on the first with the BGM and the square edge jig that came with the new T-7.  The BGM is mounted to the right of the grinder.

It's convenient to be able to do a pass or two on the dry grinder and let the tool hang in the jig til it cools.

What was disappointing was that when transferred to the T-7 the chisel was too far to the right to touch the wheel and had to be repositioned so losing the advantage of transferability.  In fact the jig had to be turned upside down as only one side of the slot is at right angles.

It may be possible to move the BGM mount further away from the grinder than suggested in the manual so as to keep chisels to the left in the upside down jig; will have to see how that affects the gouge jig.  There's about 50mm in it.

I also found that taking the sharpened chisel from the T-7 and placing it in the Veritas Mark II honing guide on a stone produced a pronounced skew.  Maybe the wheel isn't true from new - something else to check.

Good soapbox 

Yep, that worked for me.  Used a straight edge on the wheel face to line up the front of the mounting block.

Just a query Jeff ... how do you think the bushes on the jigs will stand up to grit breaking down from the grind wheel?

I ask because some wheel bonds are soft enough to break down while grinding, and also because I used a method to true a new grind wheel with a diamond point truing tool mounted in the straight-edge jig.  (Pointing down I might add, since this is safer and said to be kinder to the diamond).

Some folks might appreciate new setting stickers as well Jeff.

Okeydoke.

(I've had mine for months by the way).

(expletive deleted).

Thanks Jeff.

I'm in Australia and will contact the distributor here.

Also a member of the largest WW forum here and have seen no mention of this error on it.  The local guys could have gone the extra inch you'd think.

That's true Jeff but for me anyway it would be easier to line up than it would be to grind a flat and errors would be recoverable!

Thinking out loud, maybe fixing a strip of wood across the flute would help orient the shaft clearly vertical for a bit of grinding.

Yes, a good friend was unkind enough recently to swap from machinist to a new career.
Every turner should have a machinist or the like as a friend 

Not very Jeff.

It's got the 0-6 scale on it.

The numbers appear to correspond to grooves rather than ridges, if I'm reading it right.

My favorite spindle gouge comes new with a fairly short flute so it's not long before there's none for the stepped brass block to fit into.

The manual suggests grinding a flat on the shaft for the screw to lock down on.

It's hard to place this accurately.  (Any tips?)

I wonder whether this would work better: a slight cove on the bottom of the stepped brass block to allow it to sit crossways on the shaft.  Or indeed a 2nd block with a V groove running lengthways on the bottom.

Jeff, thanks for the heads up about wheel wear on the TTS.

As for the angle mismatch, first thing I did was swap between the two 'platforms'.  The labelled setting reproduced the bevel angle nicely on the wetstone but as I said was clearly out on the dry grinder.

So I started on a gouge that needed reshaping.  Used the settings to produce a 45 degree bevel and did that on the dry grinder.  Moved to the wetstone and it matched.  Checked the bevel angle and it was around 55 degrees!  Took another gouge with a measured 45 degree bevel, set it up in the same way and there was a lot of daylight between it and the wheel.

So clearly I'm doing something wrong despite double checking everything 

I take it that the numbers on the knuckle joint of the jig are meant to match the grooves?  (though this problem is a protrusion matter isn't it?).

Thanks Jeff. 

I'm not doing it this way for sharpening purposes.  Been using the wetstone for some time and decided to mount a BGM  for consistency across the two 'platforms'.  So this was a test of that.  (Although if I'd chipped an edge and used the labelled settings to take it out using the BGM it would've changed the geometry.)

Anyway, yes, both wheels are turning.  Just checked a third time.

Doesn't make sense does it.

Hi Jeff,

Same settings on both. 

Spindle gouge, sharpened at 35 degrees on the wetstone.  Gouge jig set at #2, projection 65mm, hole B using the TTS.

Transferred to the newly mounted BGM  --> about 5 degrees more acute (by eyeball).  Takes two full turns of the mount bar adjuster screw to get it roughly the same ( = bar coming further away from the wheel).

Is this normal or is there something I have overlooked?

Would appreciate your advice.

Cheers,  Ern