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I used the Arkansas stones on knives only and they were brought to a final edge from a new factory edge. Therefore, the time required was not all that great but still several minutes. The final stone used was also the translucent grade, not white as stated. According to Dans Whetstones this is the hardest grade. As I said, this is largely for self gratification as it is so fine as to be unnecessary for any reasonable purpose. It is basically for bragging rights as it is nearly as smooth as glass and would take forever to use unless your item was razor sharp already.
I am not aware of a spell check mechanism.
Your scenario is way overkill. As I mentioned, I have the/an 8000 grit Jap stone and it is actually more of a polisher in my opinion. I am sure it might ad the nth degree to an already extremely sharp edge but it too is for bragging rights. Also, the leather wheel is not necessary after the 8000 grit stone, there is no burr to be removed. The 8000 grit wheels are softer then the Tormek wheels but with the minimal usae that they would see, they should last for a while. I think I bought mine from Woodcrafter and the first one I got wobbled like a weeble. I tried to reattach it with no success. The good folks at Woodcrafter paid to pick up the bad wheel and shipped me another which worked fine. All i ahve ever sharpened is knives and I agree with Herman when he said, the 1000 grit is really all you need.

The Tormek only comes with one stone and it is either 220 or 1000 grit depending on how it left the factory. It is graded into the other grit by the stone grader. It goes from 220 to 1000, there are no intermediate steps on the factory stone. I have a Jap 8000 grit bought from somewhere. It is not necessary. 30,000 grit would be totally useless in my humble opinion. That would seem to duplicate window. That might polish something in a month or to of polishing.  I have and used to use a white Arkansas stone, it too is practically useless. My knives were sharp but I dnt know that they were sharper than the Arkansas pink made them. The 8000 is a stropping type thing.

The curve is in the swinging part. It merely cuts against the straight edge that is screwed onto the base. The curve is like on a pair of scissors, one of them is curved also. At least on all the ones I have seen. The curve, when held tightly against the opposing surface aids in cutting. The blades never were really all that sharp. I think that sharper blades would help but they wont stay sharp long as the constant wear against each other is going to cause a dulling. These are my thoughts based on observation, not education so I might be wrong.

You might want to consider a career in fictional writing. Your post was fun to read.

Isnt there a drive belt or some kind of tensioning device that may need tightening?

Jeff, it would seem you are correct in your recollections. This is what stuck in my mind:
Now, having read that you actually used the SG stone on a ceramic knife, did you sharpen against the turning wheel or with the wheel turning away from you? Was the knife edge smooth? I am pretty sure that the honing wheel would have no effect on the ceramic blade, or am I wrong there? thanx
Matt Rabe

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     Ceramic Knife - need help!!!!!
« on: December 26, 2006, 11:19:54 pm » Quote 

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Someone has asked if I can sharpen a Japanese cermic knife?  Any tips?  Can I?

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Jeff Farris
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      Re:Ceramic Knife - need help!!!!!
« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2006, 01:24:00 am » Quote 

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Until someone comes up a with more intelligent answer, I'll tell you that -- I don't know. 

It may be harder than the grindstone, in which case, you won't be able to sharpen it.  On the bright side, if you try and it truly is harder than the grindstone, you won't do any damage to either one. I would grade the grindstone very smooth and try it.   

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You will have very limited use for a 4000 grit stone. That grit is associated with scalpels or other such blades. We all want our blades to be that sharp but seldom need them to be. Having said all that, I bought one of these 4000 grit stones from a US supplier. The stone wobbled like a weeble on my Tormek shaft. I mean its side to side displacement looked like a a great a__ walking down the street! It was all over the spectrum. The good news is that the US supplier PAID for return shipping. These stones weigh a lot and are expensive to ship. The second stone was fine and I still have it. It is for the final polishing of an ALready sharp edge. It will NOT sharpen anything unless you have time beyond belief. It is not made for that. Bottom line, there is very limited use for this stone. It is basically a prestige thing.

So, for how long has the SG stone been acceptable for use on ceramic? For years, you have reported it to be UNusable on ceramic.

Those blades are so delicate I would not attempt it with anything other than the SJ 250 or equivalent. Keep in mind that there is little margin for error on this device. you could easily change the cutting angle, cutting edge or who knows. In fact, as a beginner I would leave it alone. Speaking for myself of course.

Since when does the SG stone do ceramic? Quote from tormek USA

The unique composition of the stone, together with the Stone Grader SP-650 gives you two different cutting actions in one stone. The Stone grader polishes the surface of the grindstone from its normal 220 grit to a finish that works like a 1000 grit stone. This is a great advantage, since you can do the fine sharpening* with the same setting of the jig as used for the initial shaping* of the tool. The Original Grindstone is the ideal choice when you want both efficient steel removal and fine finish in the same stone over a wide variety of materials, from carbon steel to high speed steel.

I do not see ceramic included. This question has been asked numerous times on this forum and there has never been a satisfactory stone. The "SG" has been around for years. It is the original stone, what has changed?

Excellent illustration of your problem. It really helps us neophytes to be able to see what is being talked about.
Merry Christmas!

I am not a pro but that is why I bought mine. It works very well for that purpose.

I wonder what would happen if you relieved the SVD 110 to a point near the lock screw? In other words mill out in some way the hole that the tool rest passes through to a point near the set screw. Have about an inch or less material on either side of the set screw. The set screw is in the middle of the piece so maybe with a little "meat" left on either side it would still grip the tool rest sufficiently to hold. After all, that special wedge shape is supposed to hold up to 250% better. At least you would not lose any of the platform. The milled out area would have to be as wide as the tool rest pieces so that the SVD 110 would pass over the part that enters the mount on the body of the Tormek itself.

I bought a stone of that type from Woodcraft.com, I think that is right. The first stone wobbled like a weeble but didnt fall down as it was on a shaft. I sent it back and got a replacement that works fine. As Jeff Farris said, if you are happy with the 1000 grit and dont need the other stone, sell it. However, you should keep in mind that some of them wobble. Do you want to sell a stone that is not true? I recommend mounting it to confirm trueness, is that a word? Maybe concentricity is better. Having said all that, are you aware that 4000 grit will enable you to bring an edge to the nth degree of sharpness without the use of the buffing wheel? Finally, if you want to sell the wheel put it on Craigs list first to avoid eBarf seller fees. Woodcraft price is $190 plus shipping.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2001849/2001849.aspx
Bottom line, I like mine.

It is impossible to follow any large curve on a knife. I am sure you have observed that if you follow the angle on the straightest part of the blade that you are going to grind more when reaching a curved area. This also applies to the tips of your knives. They are going to be ground more with a resulting wider grind pattern. I have never tried it but increasing the angle on the curve would lessen the bevel produced. This would be very tedious though. I dont understand your settings not being the same from side to side. If you are incredibly dexterous you could use the jig on the straighter edges and freehand the curves. Once again, that would be very tedious if not impossible. You might as well forget a convex curve on the stone. Better to use a Lansky type device that has a much narrower grindng surface. I am am anxious to see if there is any better advice. Good luck.