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I wonder if you could chuck the wheel in a metal lathe and use the wheel dresser diamond tool clamped in the tool post that would normally hold a cutting tool as for turning a metal object.

I am not affiliated with Tormek or anyone else in any way but I can answer that easily. If they were to get about a thousand requests for the same thing, they would look into it. One request/suggestion just will not get it. There is a sound business reason behind that too, so you can't really blame them. They need a lot of movement to justify that kind of plunge. If you were to submit this I am sure you would recieve a nice letter thanking you for your suggestion and they would keep it in mind. Good luck to you and yours.

The T3 will not stand up to continuos use as would be found in actually making a tool. It is not rated for continuous use as the T7 is. You can run the T7 24/7 but the T3 is for 30 minute cycles and then cool off time. I may be wrong on the run time of the T3 but it is still not up to your needs.

I am sorry, I do not see the use of this on a small blade knife. While I applaud your efforts at helping and am sure this serves a purpose for you and others I do not see its utility on a small knife blade. I have a little pen knife that this set up could in no way be used to grind the edge. The device illustrated has a short edge but a long body. You can get that long body mounted on the jig shown but not a blade that is less than 1/2 inch wide and that is what I thought we were talking about. What am I missing? thanx

Honing on the leather wheel is much like using a "steel". It is the final alignment of the teeth on the cutting edge. If all you have to do is REalign the cutting edge teeth, then you are good to go. If not, then on to the grinding wheel. Rule of thumb, if your edge will almost bite into your fingernail, then the leather wheel will most likely be sufficient. If the edge slides across your fingernail, better go to the stone. IMHO FYI The super fine stones aka 4000 grit and the leather wheel are nearly the same thing. Do not buy a 4000 grit stone to see if it is better, it is not. I have one and it is great but not better than the leather IF your edge is duller than the nail biting ability. Clearly, you can grind with the wheel but it will take till the cows come home to get anywhere.

I would not want to show off the sharp edge of anything that cost very much or was a prized possession if the two grinds did not match perfectly. Especially if I was trying to sell a service. Not good enough for a professional kit unless you reclamp the knife to obtain a perfect grind.

.........................or is the SVS 50 a better option? thanx

Ken S, I had it clamped correctly. If I had not gotten any replies, I was going to post some pictures. I assume that you know me as that was a good question! LOL
Jeff Farris, I followed your advice and "choked up" on the shank of the chisel. However, it is round and the square edge jig has flat edges. That makes it exceedingly difficult to line things up. I did do it after a lot of swearing and sweating. I tried using a machinist square and all sorts of contortions but this is not for the faint of heart! After all this the chisel edge is now sharper than a razor! Of course I stropped it on the leather wheel. But, I am not sure it is 90 degrees to the shaft. This particular chisel was a ONE inch chisel. I wonder if the SVS 32 is not the way to go on this in the future?  Thank you all!

I cannot get my chisel at an angle that will allow it to be sharpened properly. It seems that the length of blade is not long enough to allow the support rod to go low enough to produce the proper angle. When the chisel is in the square edge jig, the parts that slide along the rod come into contact with the spinning grindstone. I cannot do it either against the spin or with the spin direction. Anyone else experience this? thanx

I agree and wondered what I was doing wrong all this time. Come on Tormek! For this kind of money we should get more. Like a real jig.

Shakespeare hit it dead on the head when he said, " much ado about nothing". I think that while I admire your tenacity in wanting to sharpen your prized tools, it is just not going to work out in a fiscally responsible manner. How coincidental that you are in the same land as the bard! Of course it can never be said that you English are not tenacious, they did name a bulldog after you and more than one dead nazi would certainly agree!

You have to carefully follow the curve of the blade so that it touches the wheel the same amount along its entire length. Notice the grind mark along the edge, it should be the same width along its length. If you have to, you can swivel at your waist when you approach the tip so that the knife will remain at the same position relative to the wheel. It is important that you "swing" the blade and not just grind more on the tip than the rest of the blade.

Only for the people that you sharpen knives for, I have not been asked to resharpen any knives yet. There was more than one small cut after the first and so far only sharpening session.

Buy the cheapest ones you can live with! ALL knives need to be sharpened at some time so get the ones that are easiest to sharpen. Soft = inferior steel usually is a hallmark of cheap knives. So what? We are in our own kitchen and doing our own thing. I sa, buy what works that you can get sharp and be satisfied. I do not own any high end knives so this is not an entirely objective review.

You might want to check this out:

http://www.oceanmachinery.com/rush-machinery-drill-sharpener-rush-machinery-drill-grinder-.htm