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I think your edges are probably better than 90% of the commercial sharpeners' out there, and they're more than good enough for the vast majority of people.  A score of 150 is sharper than most knives come out of the box.

If you haven't already, I'd suggest you try honing on diamonds first and finishing on the Tormek paste.  It's counter-intuitive, because the paste has a higher grit rating that 1 micron, but I find I get better results finishing with PA-70.

I'd say it's not just for honing, but also for sharpening if you want to sharpen edge trailing instead of edge leading.  Seems very much like something Tormek should produce themselves, rather than relying on third-party suppliers. 

So it's interesting to note that he claims here the reason for diamond being chosen was that it's harder than CBN.  Vadim says the reason he used CBN was because it is more impact resistant.  That is an interesting property to go off of because as far as I can tell there is little impact to the abrasive as much as just slow wear (which would lend itself to hardness being the most important factor to longevity).

There is impact every time a diamond or CBN crystal hits the blade apex -- at least in edge leading sharpening.

As I read it, the reason for the unwanted scratches is that the knife moved in the jig, so you have grind marks on the flat of the blade?  I'm sure they're pretty deep, with that 180 wheel.  The only way I know of to get rid of them is to refinish the flats, which could involve using a progression of whet stones, sandpaper, or both.  Unfortunately it's quite a lengthy process. 

As far as the 180 wheel goes, it's phenomenal for reprofiling or grinding out bigger chips, but that's the only thing I use it for.  When I do use it I would go to the 400 before hitting the 1000, or you could use the SG wheel if you have one.

Wow!  This is exciting! 

Well done!  A lot of work went into that.

I agree that cleaner is better, but I don't think it's accurate to say that a blackened honing wheel or strop is just burnishing -- provided you continually refresh the honing compound.  After all, it's the abrasives in the compound that are doing the cutting. 

Here's an interesting quote from a company that sells both diamond and CBN grinding wheels:

"Diamond is composed of pure carbon and is produced under high heat and pressure. When Diamond is used to grind hardened steel it causes a chemical reaction and essentially begins to form graphite and lose its strength.

So what makes CBN better for working with hardened steels? CBN is not composed of carbon atoms, instead it is formed with boron and nitride under pressure and heat. Grinding hardened steels produces high temperatures, CBN has a great thermal conductivity, keeping it cool under extreme heat."

But ... my impression is that this applies only, or mostly, to high-speed, high-temperature grinding.  I don't know if it has any impact on a Tormek, with its low rpms and low temperatures.

It's just an alternative method to measure distances. You can still move the USB by hand or by the EzyLock nut, respectively. There is no considerable resistance in sliding that black sensor box along the rail.
The only advantage is that you don't have to operate rulers or calipers while setting the USB height, it's a bit more hands-free.

Now adding a stepper motor will be a logical next step

That's what I'm talkin' about.   

Now let's get really fancy.  Put a sensor on the USB to measure the progress across and have the stepper motor adjust the height as you move the jig across the bar to maintain a consistent angle with curved blades.  Programmable curves!

Looks very cool.  Forgive my ignorance, but does this setup actually move the USB to the set height, or is it just displaying the set height digitally?

I believe Vadim's wheels are no longer available.  There are other options, though, e.g., Tormek's own diamond wheels or CBN wheels from schleifjunkies.com or woodworkerswonders.com.

I use the Schleif Junkies wheels.  I don't know the exact number, but it has to be in the range of 300-400 sharpenings now and they are holding up well.  The only apparent sign of wear is on the 1000 grit, square-edge wheel, which has lost some grit on the outer 1-1.5mm of the edges.

I use Calcapp and I'm happy with it.

Same here.  It's my go-to.

Off topic, but thats a nice setup 3D Anvil! I like the laser on the FVB bar. Do you find you use it alot?

I only got the laser recently so I've just experimented with it so far.  I mainly plan to use it for knives with big bellies when I want to maintain a consistent edge angle. 

The tool rest idea is pretty clever.  I need to get me a 3D printer.

I recently started using a Sharpie to confirm the right honing angle with the WS, which was illuminating.  Seems I'm pretty good at nailing it on my right side, but what *looks* to be horizontal on my left side is actually a degree or two too shallow.  Now that I know that I can compensate and I get a more consistent result.  Lord knows why I waited so long to try this.