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I generally prefer to clamp parallel to the straight section of a chef's knife.  That way, the majority of the blade will be at the desired angle, and the belly/tip will get a higher angle which tends to keep the bevel width more uniform and adds more edge stability where it's most needed.

My BESS tester video:

I guess the fixed rate jigs provide the ultimate reliability, but I find that my results are highly repeatable if I just follow Edge on Up's instructions and go slowly enough to see the numbers advancing one by one.  I'd say it should take a minimum of 3-4 seconds, even for a very sharp knife.

From the manual:

"Remember Slow and Easy! We're not chopping carrots (at least not yet!) but measuring the sharpness of an edge. Your downward movement with the knife should be slow and deliberate. Try to find a seated position with arms resting on the worktop for greater control and stability. If you can clearly see the increase in force tick upward on the display either in 5 or 25 gram increments (depending on the instrument you have purchased) then you know that you have taken the measurement correctly. When the test media severs, the measurement is complete and your BESS score for that edge will be shown on the display."

I've read somewhere on a forum that when running to CBN wheels at one time on a tarmac that the machine definitely slows down almost to a crawled rotation. As if the T8 does not have enough torque to spin to heavyweight wheels. Although there have been others who have stated, while having a diamond wheel on the left and the lesser weighted spartan plastic core wheel on the right that there was no issue with slowness of spin.

Hanns has stated to me that this will not be an issue when running to CBNs on one T8 with the extended bolt at one time.

This is almost certainly caused by water dripping onto the rubber drive wheel, rather than a lack of sufficient motor torque.  If the drive wheel gets wet, it causes the drive shaft to slip, which seems like a torque issue if you don't understand what's happened.  I use a 3D printed guard over the drive wheel to minimize the issue, but it still happens occasionally.  Then it's just a matter of drying off the wheel with a rag or paper towel.

I certainly watched the first one also maybe even the second. Very informative I love his style of simplicity and more, so damn his patience.

Also, the kangaroo tail strops. Oh my God. But damn unfortunately, with all the regulations concerning those tails, they can only be shipped within Australia. Because I'd certainly buy a couple of the doctors recommended size in length which may have been 24 or 26 inches by about 6 inches wide.

Anyway, somehow, I've gotta find a way to get them to Canada.
With all those damn regulations.

Talking about this, I wonder why, even if it was locally made and sold in Australia, why haven't they ever made kangaroo tail adhered to a Tormek styled wheel?
And not necessarily a Tormek style But for any grinder type.

I get it may be more expensive I gather, but how I'm sure there's enough of us crazies that would really consider it.

Anyway, thank you Ken.

I managed to buy a kangaroo tail strop on Ebay.  Also got a separate loose piece from Etsy.  I'm finding to be good, if not quite the miracle that some make them out to be.  Very good for initial deburring and for touching up knives with "drawer rust."  Adds a little refinement as a last stop after a loaded strop.  I've used them to replace the Flitz-loaded denim strop that I used to use as my last process.

During this weekend's sharpening session, I noticed something that either wasn't happening before, or that I had failed to notice : when moving the USB up, the KS-123 wouldn't move in a continuous fashion, but rather by small increments. Which led me to suspect that the static friction coefficient at the middle reference leg was too high.

I did some testing, and noticed that if I moved the needle by hand, with the KS-123 still snapped to the USB and the three contact points on the wheel, I could get it to give readings that could vary by almost 1.5dps.

So I ended up taking the KS-123 apart, and lubricating the contact area between the black plastic cylinder and its metal housing. It improved the situation.

I have a less elegant solution.  I just pick up the three guide bars and plop them back down on the stone every time I turn the micro adjuster.

I would think that the knife jig would hit the stone at under 8° per side, but then I've never tried it.

FWIW, here's my video on the dual-wheel setup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nowd-O3HT50

I convexed a couple pocket knives out of curiosity.  It worked pretty well, but it's quite a slow process if you want to get nice looking results.  It's not something I plan on doing again.  I also don't think it's a good solution for knives that already have convex edges, because there's no way to match the height of the existing convex section.  To be truly useful for that purpose, you'd need to be able to adjust the distance between the stops.

I think that the added weight of a second grinding wheel probably stresses the motor more than running it with a single wheel, but it has more than enough torque, so maybe not?  It's also putting more stress on the shaft, but again ... I don't think it's doing any harm. 

I have no idea if running two wheels voids the warranty.  I suspect it probably does, but I've been running mine that way for well over a year with no problems (dual CBN wheels).  If you get an official response from Tormek I'd be curious to hear the answer.

I can imagine that the SG, graded fine, could be a good place to start for grinding out larger chips.  But from there I think it would best to move on to higher grits.  I wonder if the Japanese Wheel would improve the SG result?  After that 4000 grit finish, six, three, and one micron stropping could be the ticket.  Or sharpening on 8000+ bench stones and then stropping. 

Anyway, I'll have a go at it when the factory edge gets chippy enough (and it seems to chip quickly with my wife/chef behind the wheel).

Nice, Kwakster!  I've never gotten along with paper wheels, personally, but your results speak for themselves.

I believe this is an interesting read at
ScienceOfSharp.

It states that aluminum oxide abrasives are sufficient, however a much finer grit than the SG-250 is suggested.

Very interesting. It seems Kyocera has improved their sharpening process since that was posted in 2018.  My examples easily push cut paper.