Messages

Thank you Marie and Ken!
The last sentence in the diamond wheel pdf made me smile "Do NOT use the TT-50 Turning Tool on the Diamond Wheel." 

Fernando, people do use other than water liquids, e.g. metalworking fluids. But,  lubricants in them make grinding  less aggressive and therefore slower, and they often stain polished blades. Most liquids other than water are irritants to eye, skin or respiratory. Water with some anti-corrosion agent is cheaper, clearer and won't stain.

If the wheel frame were all-aluminium, we wouldn't even need the anti-corrosion agent, but steel has a big advantage over aluminium which you appreciate when you drop something hard on your wheel - in case of aluminium you  will have to repair the dent, in case of steel mostly not.

yep wootz, that caught my eye too.  know somewhere down the line someone will ask that question and we will be ready with a quick answer ! ! same thing with antifreeze, Tormek says no no on the antifreeze, probably to the point it will void the warranty on the diamond wheels.

Rick, I don't know what the soon to arrive Multi Base 100 will bring. It may be a game changer, as may being able to grind accurately on the flats. These may or may not change your plans.

As far as being level, my gut feeling would be to accurately level the bench top and work up one level as a time, being certain to keep each step level. You may well end up keeping the entire set up more level than was originally planned. Knowing you, that is a goid thing. Just as small errors are cumulative, so also do smaller, tighter tolerances compound.

I would suggest you dedicate a separate usb to this operation and devise a simple inspection system.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Get well soon Ken !

the gage pin sounds like a good idea. will have to make me some.
it is important to level it to itself (very well put), and very important as you said to have the USB parallel to the wheels.  checking with the long bar is another great way to check the parallel of the USB.
since my grinder was a leather machine leather burnisher, I have no shields over the paper wheel. currently I have a block of wood 8" tall mounted so that I can use the top of the wheel going away. It doesn't seem stable enough so I will get a boat seat pedestal 7" high and bolt it down and mount the BGM-100. I have the MB-100 and the diamond wheels coming also, so it will be interesting to see what configurations we can muster up.

just curious, do you use a Bess scale after sharpening ?

I find it easier to measure the center lines by measuring from the shaft to the top or back side of the usb and subtracting 6 mm, since the usb is 12 mm.

Knife grinders give some good advice for the paper wheel set up. you might get some information from them. I don't know if it will help you out any for the grinding wheels tho. I too got the same set up as you and still playing with the install. mine will be for the paper wheels tho.

http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop_PWsupport.htm

I'm number 1 on the shipping list according to Wolfgang at Advanced Machinery, so I will try to let everyone know when they start shipping.

I'm not real sure but the T-8 wheel is 2 " wide (50mm), the T-4 is 1 5/8" (40mm) wide, so I don't know if the shaft is long enough to hold a 2" (50mm) wheel.

I think jeff went on to say that anti-freeze also dissolves the adhesives in the stone.

while I agree with Ken and Y_Not that when new the stone should be perfectly flat, but I disagree with Sharpco because of support statement. "And when you use the stone grader you should not use it to flatten the grindstone stone. If the grind stone is uneven in the surface, you use the TT-50 to re shape it".

I flatten the SG-250, but stone grader makes it uneven.

I see what you mean now. that does present a problem.

cb, I get my shirt wet often by leaning over the stone to sharpen my kitchen knives, seems the roll of the wheel contacts my roll !!!!!!!!!!!  lol

nice simple fix for a complicated problem ! good job !

I have a new T-8 and I have a planer. so I decided I need the SVH-320 planer/jointer attachment. had to try it out soon as I unpacked it. took the planer blades off my planer and clamped it down to sharpen. the blades were less than the minimum 13mm width in the svh handbook. mine were 12mm, so my owners book for the planer says they are disposable blades !!!!.. now stuck with a new SVH-320. MORAL of the story  "look before you leap" !!!

while I agree with Ken and Y_Not that when new the stone should be perfectly flat, but I disagree with Sharpco because of support statement. "And when you use the stone grader you should not use it to flatten the grindstone stone. If the grind stone is uneven in the surface, you use the TT-50 to re shape it".

After truing the SJ stone, some holes are created on the surface. I didn't solve this problem even though doing it very slowly and the depth was as thin as possible. I did it very slowly and set the truing depth as shallow as possible to solve this problem, but it was not effective.

I don't think truing itself is "causing" it, (wouldn't it create gouges?)... maybe where little "air pockets" were in the stone?  (Is that what an "inclusion" that jeffs55 wrote is?)

Probably no big deal, unless the tip of a knife (or other blade) could get caught in one... 

What is the diameter of your stone at this point?

I'm guessing another question for Tormek support.  (If you do, let us know what they tell you).

I think jeff is correct saying they are probably harmless. also they may very well be air pockets and should disappear after a few truing sessions. still I would ask for guidance from Tormek as safety could be a concern.