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I think I might try grinding on the other side of the wheel, with the wheel rotating away from the blade.  I feel that way I can lighten up on the down pressure and maybe finish with lighter cuts.  With the blade rotating toward the blade, I have to keep significant pressure on the edge, to keep the edge from catching.

Thanks Ken.  Good advice.  Is it normal to have some grind marks showing, even after honing? 

The EZYlock kit comes with nylon bushings and stainless steel shaft, stainless EZYlock and stainless spacer washer (goes on behind the grinding wheel). This gives you all new stainless hardware for the "wet" side (the grinding wheel side). The drive wheel/leather honing wheel side is the "dry side". Tormek does not include new hardware because that end is dry. Reusing the original non stainless hardware on the dry side should work fine.

The EZYlock kit and a new drive wheel should make your 2005 "Bristol fashion" for many years.

Ken

Thanks Ken.  I didn't know the washers and nut were stainless.  That's perfect.  Can't wait to get it.

Wonder why there are no stainless washers and nuts available as well?  I hate that parts that will rust are subjected to water.  The shaft I will replace for sure.  I have the updated micro adjust support, diamond dresser and the SE77, so I'm OK there.

If your blade is more than 1/8 inch thick across the spine and maybe a little less, you cannot get the grind even on both sides of the blade. It is a Tormek design flaw. I suppose you could if you did one side and removed the knife and then refastened it opposite the original way but who is going to do that?

Ah, Ha!!!  Ok...that's one for me, not that it matters to have them even...does it?

 ...So I've sharpened chisels and planes and those come out great.  I can get the edge so nice, I can barely see any grind marks, under magnification. 
Now for the fail part...I went to Walmart and picked up a couple of practice kitchen knives, as for some reason, the wife does not like sharp knives. I haven't sharpened any of her knives in 10 years. Anyhow, I got all the jig stuff right, only I had a hard time getting a burr, but I did finally get it.  Thing is, I had a hard time getting the grind surface even on both sides of the blade.  Taking the same number of strokes on both sides didn't work for me. 
So now for honing...my angle was either too much or too little...too much or too little...too much or too little...  Also, I never could get the grind mark out to get that super nice polish.  Under mag, I could only get about 20% of the marks out.  Yes, the knife cut paper fairly easy, but nowhere near the planes or chisels that I've done. 
Right now, I'm kinda lost and feel like, if I don't have someone to hold my hand thru the process, I don't know what to correct and or how to correct it.   

Found a good vid on how to load the wheel.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjgTyY908ms

Does anyone use green compound on the honing wheel?

Ok...I've had the SuperGrind for quite a while, however I never did prepare the strop properly.  Doing some reading, I found that oil must be applied to the leather surface prior to the honing compound.
Now, I've already used the compound on the leather without first using oil, so how do I get the strop back to a starting surface?  After that, how do I then oil and load the strop properly?  By the way, would you ever use green polishing compound on the strop, as you might on a traditional flat strop?
Thanks for all the help.  Videos would be great, if you have any links.

I took apart my SuperGrind 2005 to inspect, clean and possibly replace the drive shaft, drive wheel and what ever other parts need replacing.  I cleaned up lots of rust and pitting.  Also, I'm a little concerned about the breakdown of the SG250 bushing.  The strop wheel has some very fine "fractures" or stress marks near the center as well and I"m not sure if I should be concerned about those?  Please take a look at the pics and tell me what you think.

I'm sure I'm not the first to ask this question.  After honing on stones and using a flat stop, I'm wondering if the Tormek strop is just as good.  By just as good, I mean, I'm always so careful when I hand stop on my flat leather strop, as I don't want to roll over the edge of my chisel or plane.  With the Tormek, I'm always wondering if I'm going to far with the angle or not enough.  That's really an issue on chisel backs where flatness is key.
What's the consensus here?

Ken, thanks.  You've been a big help.  Once I saw that it was not a big deal, I disassembled my SuperGrind.  It took a bit to get the SJ250 off and the nylon? bushing that it rides on was a bit torn up.  Also, lots of rust on the main nut, washers and shaft.  I think I'll go back in and take some pics, so I can post a thread, asking what I should keep and what I should replace.
I see now that it's a pretty simple system, so I'm not that intimidated by it all.  I just didn't want to risk throwing anything off.  Thanks again for all the help. 

Thanks so much for the information.  I had no idea.  Is there any video on the replacement of wheel and shaft?  Anything written, besides what you've already written?

Hi Darita,
I have a 2000 there was only one thing ever wrong with it.  The drive wheels back then then were plastic and routinely cracked along the axis of the pin from the center on out.  I went through three.    In all fairness to Tormek, I should point out  they replaced one, but they just kept breaking.    When I learned that Tormek came up with a new zinc wheel I immediately replaced my last oft-epoxied wheel.  As far as I'm concerned this is all water under the bridge.   The reason I mention it is to help you out not bash Tormek.   But, I will state that many of these "upgrade" kits are huge waste of money because the one thing they don't supply is the awesome zinc wheel.    If you have a an earlier Tormek the drive wheel is where I would start.    For me the new wheel was like a Christmas present because my 2000 is a whole new machine.    Everything else on this machine is solid!    There are consumable parts that wear o course.     You might look at your axle as they wear at the bearing points and this could lead to play.   On mine the plastic bearings held in enough steel slurry to start abrasion,  though I'm not ready to replace the Axle yet.     All the Best

Wait...don't go!  Where is the drive wheel located and what should I look for?  More specifically, mine is a SuperGrind 2005.  Is that the same as what you have?  Sorry I'm not more up on these things.

Thanks Ken.  It does look brown and sorta like rust.  Unfortunately, I  don't have the space to store the Tormek out in the open, so at least for now, it always goes back in the box.  I'll have to make an effort to find the space for it.  At least it's not mould.