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I have some small spots of rust on my threaded USB but none at all on the original SuperGrind 2000 USB; the plating is not the same on these which may help to explain the difference.
Both are perfectly functional but stainless steel would be a better material.

Useful links from RichColvin. The Japanese have semi-automated the process with a tool:

Oddly enough, I was wondering about this idea just the other day prompted, I think by the 150 RPM limit on the standard 250mm wheel.
Apart from the danger of unacceptable water spillage and spray, is bearing wear likely to be accelerated? so far as I know, the nylon bushes are not available from Tormek on their own (they can, of course, be shop-made if a lathe is available).

I have no direct experience.
However, if your chisel is Japanese then according to Toshio Odate the remedy is to hammer the bevel and thereby force more of the hard lamination into the concavity. He emphasises the danger of cracking the chisel!
If you are interested and will PM your email address I can send the relevant extract from his book, Japanese Woodworking Tools.

I was sorry to hear about Fernando's problem and the thought that he might lose his "anti-stress therapy" - such a pleasing expression!
I have only glanced at the T-8 brochure but note that it has an NVR switch, desirable but, perhaps, a complication. The motor seems now to be enclosed which may limit the possibility of checking its operating temperature (I use a cheap laser gadget for this kind of thing).
It would be helpful to know whether an overheat cut-out is fitted and what the maximum operating temperature is.
Good luck to Fernando!

Ken
Amen to all your comments! One of the pleasing things about our machine is the sense that it came from one individual's inspiration; perhaps the updated, online, handbook could touch on its origins.
I forgot to say that if there is a (UK) member who has the non-stainless shaft and wishes to upgrade but does not need the EzyLock multiple wheel capability, then they would be welcome to my shop-made item for the cost of the postage. PM me if interested.

"Your experience underlines how unfortunate it was that Tormek chose to use chromed mild steel instead of stainless."

Your statement does not tell the full story. Yes, the original shafts were not stainless steel. However, Tormek chose to use only stainless steel shafts in 2006. In 2010, Tormek introduced the stainless steel EZYlock shaft. In contrast, when the latest clone was introduced just a couple years ago, it was still using regular steel, not stainless. (I obtained this fact by emailing the company's tech support.)

In the rusted shaft/nut/stone cases I am aware of, several owners have honestly stated that the grinding wheel was left in a filled water trough. I have not read cases where the owner fastidiously removed the wheel from the water trough between sharpening sessions and regularly regreased the nylon bushings as recommended.

I do not mean to imply that there was no rust problem with the pre 2006 non stainless shafts. However, I do not think it is fair to blame Tormek for the whole rust situation thirteen years after they switched to stainless. I have no idea how many pre2006 Tormeks are still in service using their regular shafts, some having been given excellent care, many not. Upgrading to a new stainless shaft seems a wise long term maintenance decision.

Ken

Ken S:
Thank you for this. Tormek are fortunate to be defended by you; I have never seen a statement by them as to this admittedly historic issue.
The Handbook advice was that re-greasing would cure noisy running and so far as I am aware the danger of rust was not mentioned in this context.
I always removed and cleaned my trough at the end of each session. Where I went wrong was in letting the machine go unused for a period without first "winterising" it.
I solved the problem fairly simply by making up a new stainless shaft and bearings which have proved perfectly satisfactory in service. As indicated above, I have now upgraded to the Tormek shaft because of the potential advantage of the EzyLock nut.

Ken S:
Thank you for the product history and video link - it's very easy to get sidetracked when you visit YouTube!
The TT-50 works well enough for me. As the instructions say, you have to pay attention to feed rate and depth of cut and care is needed to avoid the diamond dwelling at the point when one rotating hand takes over from the other.
I agree that the TT is essential and note that my usual supplier sells the T-8 in a set including the TT-50; I imagine that the 2019 TT-50 will be part of the package in due course.

To Ega:
I broke the old wheel trying to take it off a rusted shaft. I had spent days trying on and off to remove the wheel from the shaft I finally found a steel wheel with a hole the same diameter of the larger part of the shaft. Now that I had full support on the back side of the wheel I hit it with a hammer as I had been doing but I guess I should have waited to use a press. I broke in three pieces and I only found the two big ones.

Thank you for satisfying my curiosity. I'm happy to say that when my Tormek shaft rusted and seized it was only the bearing that was destroyed. Your experience underlines how unfortunate it was that Tormek chose to use chromed mild steel instead of stainless. I assume that you have now replaced your shaft.

How did the old wheel break?
Possibly someone's way of telling you to buy a new wheel!

I believe this is the third version of the truing tool. So far as I can tell from the website the main functional change is to replace the old square steel tube diamond carrier with a zinc alloy casting.
The Tormek video is not much help; I will look for an Alan Holtham review.

PS: I note from the Handbook (edition 4, p118) that the "special nylon bearings ... are designed to have a radial play of ... 0.004" - 0.008" ".
The reason for this is not given but I think it may be on account of nylon's propensity to absorb water and expand.
There is also a reference to the need for greasing the bearings although this is not mentioned in the instructions with the upgrade kit (MSK-250).

I have just installed the upgrade kit and on running the machine for the first time was disappointed to find that I could not undo the EzyLock nut (the name is something of a hostage to fortune).
I am grateful therefore to the posters above for pointing  out the correct, counter-intuitive, technique of grasping the wheel rather than the nut. I did also check the Alan Holtham video and, belatedly, the instructions supplied with the upgrade kit and the problem was solved for the moment at least.
By the way, the nut is not only LH thread but also twin-start, a fact I discovered when looking into making my own.
AH did not deal with the replacement bearings: they seemed rather loose on the spindle but I think they may have closed up a little on being tapped into place and are now a snug fit.

Ken S:

Your reference to Welsh stick chairs caught my eye. I am more familiar with the classic Windsor and was pleased to find some interesting comments about the late John Brown's book on the subject on the UK amazon website - yours for a mere £442!

I recently undertook a complete re-build of the beyond-redemption undercarriage of a bowback Windsor and was left with great respect for the artisans who made these (and rather less for the repairer who had preceded me and made subsequent sympathetic repairs all but impossible).

I had an email from Tormek pointing to this all-too-short video and on watching it was impressed by the fact that there seemed to be little or no protection for the (mixed) audience from those delightful streams of chips. Glenn Lucas wears a face mask but no dust protection; of course, he needs neither for the Tormek!