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You could also use the Setting Template that comes with the DBS-22 (or something like it).

There are many threads about the DBS-22 but I couldn't find one dealing at any length with the use of the setting template; this is used to set the angle of the jig to the wheel to one of four angles from 7 to 14 degrees.

I am not as deft as I once was and initially found myself wishing for a third hand. It helped to insert a finger through the hole used for the template's other function of setting the distance from the wheel, but this was only useful for the two angles at the one end of the template; this prompted the idea of a second hole towards the other end. I was able to put in an 18mm hole without destroying too much of the printed information.

For the record, I used a sharp Forstner bit backed up with a scrap of hardwood to make the hole.

I noticed a new, slurping noise when first running my diamond wheel and, on dropping the trough at the end of the session, that a considerable quantity of water then runs out of the wheel (I assume it gets into the frame past the plastic end cover).

Josu V's findings are good to know but I would be concerned that, however carefully dried, there would be some residual water to do mischief.

How much more would it cost in money and environmentally to make the frame of stainless steel?

Ken S:

I regret not noticing the age of this thread when posting a question to Jan, a great loss to the forum.

Jan:

Congratulations on your excellent jig! By not buying the DBS-22 you have easily saved the cost of the MB-100.

I wonder whether you have in mind to develop a side-to-side sliding capability so as to address the stone grooving point and get faster grinding?

Ken S:

Thanks for the "total cost of ownership" analysis. The GBP cost of the ACC is rather higher here in the UK (c $44 equivalent) but I think that amateur users are more likely to form an impression based on overall satisfaction rather than just cost in money and time. I am very pleased with the ease of metal removal with the diamond wheel when used with the drill grinding attachment which is fast enough to warrant extra care to avoid overshooting when grinding the secondary facets.

No harm, however, in the OP's suggestion of looking for an effective, cheaper alternative provided its use does not affect Tormek's warranty.

I have been taking some first tentative steps with my new DF-250 and was interested in the posts above. In particular, I am somewhat reassured to know that the high cost of ACC-150 is offset by an environmental dividend.

After my first session I decanted the water plus ACC into a clean sealed container; returning a day or so later, I noticed small blobs of (?) mould growth and removed these before returning the water to the trough. I have seen a suggestion that one should filter the water but was wary of filtering out the ACC active ingredients; I wonder whether a (Swedish) Melitta coffee filter would be suitable?

I have been sharpening carbide-tipped tools and, of course, the carbide grindings are not trapped by the magnet so filtering would be helpful in removing them as long as the ACC were not also removed.

On the question of evaporation, presumably only the water is lost so that, in theory at least, it would just be a matter of topping up with water alone?

As always, it is good to have authoritative comments from Tormek and Stig; in the UK his name is associated with a masked racing driver on TV and also the excellent children's book "Stig of the Dump".

The good news is everything was in very good shape and the nut/wheel came off with very little signs of corrosion.

Good news indeed as the older Tormeks came with a plated spindle which was prone to rust. Tormek offer a stainless replacement (MSK-250) with the excellent EzyLock nut.

jeffs55:
If "hollowness" doesn't ring true, try concavity.
AFAIK, the only merit of a hollow ground bevel on, say, a chisel or plane iron is that hand whetting becomes easier.
Ice skate blades are probably another matter.

On the language point, the Oxford English Dictionary has an extensive entry headed by the words:
"A piece of useful private or special information communicated by an expert".

Gratuities are a much more difficult subject!

Ken S

None taken whatsoever! You are the most moderate of moderators.

As a very occasional poster I am conscious that I may not yet have acquired a complete feel for the forum's etiquette and ethos but I thought it worth explaining the background to my post.

Ken S:
As moderator you are, of course, the arbiter of relevance.
However, the title of the thread is "General Concern" and, having both a Tormek diamond wheel and modestly high-speed ditto, I am interested in which is the better one to use for a given job; the posts commenting on my point were helpful to me if to no one else.

Ken S:
You seem far too nice a man to have worked for the phone company!

...
"I prefer the water cooled, dust and spark free Tormek environment to adapting a dusty dry grinder environment to use Tormek jigs."
...
So do I.
One disadvantage of using the Tormek jigs on a high speed grinder is that the jig works in a shower of sparks ie red hot metal and grinding dust. The justification for doing so is, of course, the relatively high speed of stock removal.
I would like to try the Norton 3X on the Tormek as recommended. I spent a few minutes on the Norton website trying unsuccessfully to find a 3X specification sheet with a recommended surface speed and information about water-cooled grinding. Amazon sell these wheels but, as is so often the case, give scant information.

Sébastien
Many thanks for your advice; it is always good to get a tip "from the horse's mouth" and I am glad to hear that the environment is high on your agenda!
Incidentally, one advantage of the aluminium core would be its lighter weight when it comes to high speed grinding where some conventional grinders struggle to get the heavier wheels up to speed (not a problem for the Tormek, of course).
Have you anything to add on my later post already helpfully commented by Rick Krung, please?