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A couple more points:
The diamond wheel is said to be suitable for all materials. Thinking of the old-style brazed carbide lathe tool, would the wheel suffer from coming into contact with the soft braze metal sandwiched between the carbide and the alloy steel body? (Same point, of course, for brazed HSS.
If dilute concentrate evaporates does this increase the percentage of concentrate in the liquid and could this be measured by a hygrometer (as used for battery acid) or similar?

Ken S
Thank you for the Frank Klausz link - seemingly a lovely man, at peace with the world. I don't use my water stones much these days, but for someone who does, the pond plus rotatable triple holder is obviously a good idea. The same goes for no-jig sharpening.
I look forward to hearing from Sébastien.
Another point that occurred to me arises from the discussion one sees about the danger when grinding steel with diamond of the heat generated converting the precious coating to base carbon. I imagine that the slow speed of the Tormek doesn't permit this even when used dry. The stated maximum RPM for the Tormek wheel is 150 although I believe the actual speed is 90 (possibly dependent on mains frequency).

Ken S:
Thank you for your good offices.
BTW, I hope that whatever it was that took you to ER (see above) is now just a memory.

Short of starting a new thread, this one seems the most recent and appropriate place to ask some questions arising from my recent investment in a DF-250.
When unpacking the wheel I noticed what looked like traces of rust in the bore and, having cleaned it, decided to grease the spindle. This prompted me to wonder whether the wheel could be made of stainless material. I realize that the requirements of the electroplating process may preclude this but if practical it would certainly make life simpler (and cheaper - Chanel No 5 comes to mind when contemplating the concentrate).
The instructions for the ACC-150 say to mix it with water before filling the trough; is this so that the two can be physically stirred? When I made up the dilute concentrate I thought I detected a very faint blue tinge in the water and, after stirring, a white cloudy effect. What is this and would distilled water be preferable to tap water (I live in a hard water area)?
I have taken note of Sébastien's very helpful post above and assume that, albeit a Newbie, he is the Sébastien from Tormek.
I note that a smell indicates the need to change the concentrate; assuming that I retain my sense of smell Covid notwithstanding, what sort of smell should I be trying to detect?

[from]

PS I should, of course, have written from the left of the road!

Ken S:
Thanks for the further information. I will look into the Robin Bailey support (I wonder if he is descended from the plane man).
Interesting that Tormek opted for the acme form as the metric equivalent is normally the 30 degree trapezoidal thread (Sweden was, of course, a late convert to "metric" driving on the left of the road).

cbwx34:
Thank you.
I have two of the earlier generations of the US and am not familiar with the end stop - perhaps I should be!
I can well see that a longish knife would provide a route for water to spill sideways but wonder whether a chisel or plane iron would create the same problem

Ken S:
Greetings from the UK!
I was puzzled by your saying that "The US-105 is 10mm to allow the end stop to work properly". Can you elaborate, please?
I was surprised that Tormek resorted to the acme thread; I would have thought that a soft-headed pinch screw would suffice to protect the thread.
Tormek say that the US-105 "Can be placed in these positions:

    Vertically for sharpening towards the edge.
    Horizontally for sharpening with the edge.
    Horizontally at the honing wheel side for honing."
I recall your mentioning in another thread that you had tried the "fourth dimension" of horizontally at the rear of the machine and found that water spillage made this otherwise attractive idea impractical.

I am thinking of getting a diamond wheel and with drill grinding in mind have havered over which one to get.
I can do rough shaping, if necessary, with the DBS-22 on the bench grinder and, given that the crucial part of the process is the correct formation of the four facet point, am minded to go for the fine diamond wheel.
Any comments before I commit to this investment, please?

I am just posting to thank Ken S for his YouTube link so won't start a new topic.

Good to know that the problem is solved. One small comment, however.
On my 2000 the motor support shaft was rusting and when I replaced the spindle I took the opportunity to install a new stainless steel support shaft too. It occurs to me that if this item is plated mild steel as mine was then the contact with the stone may well have removed what protection the plating provides. A dab of grease or paint would mitigate this.

Earlier in this topic a question arose about whether a tool is carbon or high speed steel. Using your high speed grinder, a quick spark testwill tell the story. Here is a link:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_testing

A quick search will show several videos.

Ken

And it is helpful to keep samples of known composition by the grinder for comparison purposes.

Ken S:
Thanks again.
The UK importer/reseller is part of a group which includes my local tool store; I will ask them next time I am there.

Ken S
Thank you for the useful link to the parts breakdown.
I should have said that, so far as I am aware, the nylon bushes are not available on their own in the UK
Because, no doubt, of the size of the US market I sense that Tormek users are better served there than here. The existence of this forum must also help in that direction.
I should be glad to be corrected on this: where do UK users get their individual spare parts?

The largest area of rust on my threaded USB is at the weld, an obviously vulnerable point and also a critical one since the USB legs must be in alignment (presumably, the extended USB has two welds and twice the potential problem).
I understand that it is possible for stainless steel to lose its "stainless" characteristic locally by being welded.
Incidentally, I gather that Tormek have made changes to the USB mounts designed to improve the location of the support which ideally should take up a consistently parallel attitude to the wheel regardless of distance from it.