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Me three, I thought it was placed on immobile objects.

https://www.baptist.nl/en/houtbewerkers/sharpening-and-grinding/tormek-supergrind-system/tormek-sg-200-supergrindsteen-voor-1205-1206-en-t-3 It takes a 200 mm stone according to this site. Probably a precursor to the T3.

I assume that you do not have an angle setter for the Tormek. If it was me and I wanted to duplicate the angle that you get with the water stone this is what I would do. Mark your blade with a marker and sharpen on the stone enough to wear off the marker. Note the amount worn off with the stone. There will be a sharpened area that no longer has marker ink on it. Note the width of this mark with a ruler or caliper even better. Reink the blade and place in the knife jig of the Tormek. Starting with an obviously too steep of an edge place the knife to the wheel and turn the machine on. Note the wear pattern and proceed to lessen the angle of attack till you match the mark made by your water stone. You may even want to turn the wheel by hand to lessen contact with the wheel while it is not in the correct setting. When I say obviously too steep I do not mean 90 degrees to the wheel but just eyeball it so that it is steeper than the angle you are using on the water stone. This should get you within a degree of what you want.

Put the blade in a protective sleeve with a band aid attached to the sleeve. Put a warning on the sleeve, "Incredibly sharp object, beware".

It depends on the hole size of the wheel you want to attach or whether or not you could modify the hole size or shaft size to accomodate your chosen accessory. A wire wheel at Tormek speed would be just slightly better than useless.

While the T4 is more than adequate for nearly everyone remember this, " you can use less of more but you cannot make more of less".

In my experience the excessive water spillage is caused by sharpening against the turning wheel. The water is cascaded over the knife edge and down the length of the blade. The flow is dependent on which way you rare tilting the blade. You know how you lift the blade to sharpen the tip and hold it flat as you grind the edge. If you sharpen with the wheel coming from behind the edge of the knife the water mess is a lot less. The blade basically deflects the water back onto the wheel instead of onto the blade. The water does not flow onto the blade and therefore does not run down the blade.

In the US dialect, we would say that you have cash burning a hole in your pocket. If you are ready to purchase, I would not hesitate. Tormek has annual price increases and one is about due. I would hate to see you get caught by a price increase while trying to find a bargain.

Like Ken said or sort of anyway, when you snooze you lose and don't hesitate and don't be late 'cause it sure won't wait!

It seems to me that Tormek would say diamonds are better since that is what they sell. In this case Vadim does not have an axe to grind......................... or does he. He has no fiduciary incentive to prefer one over the other. Take that for what its worth. I have no experience with either one but the internet says diamonds are harder so that must be true, right?

IMHO the Japanese stone is unnecessary for your needs and is overkill and is not necessary if you have a honing wheel.

Clark Howard can make them last a long time. https://clark.com/family-lifestyle/how-to-make-razors-last-longer/

Knowing how expensive Tormek is I would not have thought less than $500 and would not have been stunned if it was $600.

$439 with free shipping at Sharpeningsupplies.com according to this: https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Tormek-T8-Custom-P1870.aspx

I am sorry to hear that, I was always in awe of his math skills. How did you find out?

I have no experience in what you are doing. I do have experience in just setting up a Tormek to sharpen a knife or a chisel. Reestablishing a bevel is the same thing only different isn't it? Anyway, you are talking inefficiency in this. Just setting up is a pain. You have to set the angle, fill the trough, grind and hone (you have to hone somewhere even if not on the Tormek) which would make the most sense since it is right in front of you. Then you have to at some point down the road to either grade and or true the stone. After all that you have to empty the water trough which takes me all of  a few seconds but some take longer. After you do all that you have a concave bevel rather than a flat ground bevel which even though it is miniscule just does not appeal to me. Get a belt grinder and make a flat ground bevel. IF you insist on using a Tormek for just this purpose, get the T4. Which will make an even more concave bevel but costs a lot less. Can you tell that I would not do this?