Free gindstones for life!

[Ken S]

Rob, old friend, you haven't yet completely sold me on the Axminster deal, unless someone wanted a second Tormek. Even then, my inner thrifty old Yankee is skeptical. £400 could buy a lot of water and shininess. Or, I would think the proceeds from selling your old reliable Tormek plus that £400 could pay for a shiny new T8 Original with shiny new grinding and honing wheels, all with Tormek's new warranty.

I would stay in the serious considering mode a while longer.

Ken

[RichColvin]

Rob, old friend, you haven't yet completely sold me on the Axminster deal, unless someone wanted a second Tormek. Even then, my inner thrifty old Yankee is skeptical. £400 could buy a lot of water and shininess. Or, I would think the proceeds from selling your old reliable Tormek plus that £400 could pay for a shiny new T8 Original with shiny new grinding and honing wheels, all with Tormek's new warranty.

I would stay in the serious considering mode a while longer.

Ken

I agree.  I've had to replace some parts over time on my Tormek T-2000, but it is a beast.  And some of the replacement parts are better than the original ones, so like Robert Pirsig's bike (in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance), it is always getting better!  As long as Tormek sells replacement parts, I'll keep using it.

Some Tormek stuff is worth replacing when new ones come out:

• The SVD-186 is a significant upgrade from the SVD-185, which was a nice upgrade from the SVD-180
• The SE-77 is a really nice upgrade from the SVH-60
• The KJ-45 is a really great upgrade from the KVM-45, especially when used with the KS-123.
• The TT-50 is a HUGE improvement over the ADV-50

The base machine isn't in that category for me.  It is more like the grindstones  I have the diamond grinding wheels, yet I find myself using the SG grindstone most often. 

Summary:  if you want to get a 2nd machine, then this is a good way to go. Otherwise, I'd keep the machine you already have. 

[Rob]

I think it is yes. Didn't realise it had a name 😎

[Rob]

Well it's funny you should mention Robert Pirsig because I was musing along the same lines when I wrote that post. Here's part of what was driving the upside of that deal idea.....

... my T7 has the older style water bath operating mechanism and my sense is the T8 innovation with the winding up/down design is superior.

... my T7 does keep having torque challenges where pressure applied to the grindstone tends to halt the wheel. I've taken the advice and "roughed up" the drive wheel with sandpaper and it mildly improved but didn't really fix the problem. I've got the original shaft, not the posh newer one with tool free wheel release.

... so it had occurred to me that I should take the "quality" approach and be more concerned with a little deepening of things and replace or maintain those bugs. But then the ghost of Jeff Farris suddenly entered my rather pleasant visions of Mr Pirsig and rudely pronounced " he who dies with the most tools; wins".  That abruptly burst my Pirsig bubble with a veritable burst of "shiny". Then I found myself post rationalising the idea that a second machine would indeed be a useful addition to my workshop. That's the same workshop I rarely get chance to enter these days due to work commitments 😎.

To add insult to injury, I have vouchers for Axminster from Xmas presents of old so it's not even real money, not all of it at least!!

But of course you're right, I should fix the T7 shouldn't I?  Shouldn't I?

[Ken S]

Rob, old friend,

I feel comfortable being very candid with you. You and I are both old enough to be comfortable using a 19mm (3/4") wrench to remove the grinding wheel on a T7. While the shaft on your T7 is not EZYlock, since 2006, all Tormek shafts have been stainless steel, and do not have the rusting solid to the grindstone problem.

Also, purchasing a plastic turkey baster at your local grocery store for a couple quid and reusing a screw top plastic jar will make a credible stand in for an elevator water trough.

I would suggest emailing support (support@tormek.se) about your slippage problem. This occasional problem is not new; I'm sure they have suggestions. Ask them whether the new drive wheel made of zinc instead of plastic and with Tormek's patented rubberlike material would help. I trust Mats to give you an honest answer.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[cbwx34]

...
But of course you're right, I should fix the T7 shouldn't I?  Shouldn't I?

Personally, I think the updated EZYlock shaft is a better upgrade than the adjustable water trough... I'd just put the money toward that (keeping this in mind)... assuming you can fix the "torque" issue. (A shaft upgrade might fix it.)  Then spend the extra money on a KS-123, FVB, or what Rich mentioned... something that you'd notice an actual difference in sharpening.  An adjustable water tray can be offset easily by Ken's suggestion, or just better water management.

[Rob]

Ok thanks chaps. Good advice there. When I get back from hols I'll investigate. I hadn't realised my shaft was stainless with a vintage of 2013 so it looks like the drive wheel is where my focus needs to be. I'll disassemble and check it all out.

Thanks for the tips (I have a turkey baster that has reached that age where it will feel more comfortable in my workshop!)

[John Hancock Sr]

my T7 does keep having torque challenges where pressure applied to the grindstone tends to halt the wheel. I've taken the advice and "roughed up" the drive wheel with sandpaper and it mildly improved but didn't really fix the problem.

Not entirely convinced by the sandpaper approach. I had an old T7 which had persistent slipping and I used belt grip compound. It is available from automotive parts suppliers. Sometimes referred to as "never slip". It comes under different brand names and meant for Vee belts but works a treat on the Tormek drive wheel. I keep a spray can handy for my various machines.

[Rob]

my T7 does keep having torque challenges where pressure applied to the grindstone tends to halt the wheel. I've taken the advice and "roughed up" the drive wheel with sandpaper and it mildly improved but didn't really fix the problem.

Not entirely convinced by the sandpaper approach. I had an old T7 which had persistent slipping and I used belt grip compound. It is available from automotive parts suppliers. Sometimes referred to as "never slip". It comes under different brand names and meant for Vee belts but works a treat on the Tormek drive wheel. I keep a spray can handy for my various machines.

Interesting. Does that make the rubber sort of "sticky" then?  More apt to allow friction between the drive shaft and itself?

Also, that brand, are we talking UK or US?

Many thanks. Rob

[John Hancock Sr]

Interesting. Does that make the rubber sort of "sticky" then?  More apt to allow friction between the drive shaft and itself?

Yes. I believe it may have tar in it - at least the tin of never slip I bought back in the 80s seemed tar based.

Also, that brand, are we talking UK or US?

The spray can I bought was CRC This stuff https://crcindustries.com.au/crc-belt-grip-400g-3081/

You should be able to get it anywhere world wide under any number of brands.

[Rob]

Many thanks John

[Rob]

Right, ordered a can off Amazon, arrives tomorrow with a bit of luck. I'll report results in due course.

[John Hancock Sr]

Right, ordered a can off Amazon, arrives tomorrow with a bit of luck. I'll report results in due course.

The spray stuff has a lot of "carrier" so can be messy. You should not need much. Place a rag or paper towel under the wheel, set the machine running, shake the can and spray a little on the wheel. Wipe off the excess and you should be good to go. If it does not work first time (tbh one application should do the trick) then re-apply.

[Rob]

Righto.  Thanks John.

[Brock O Lee]

The spray can I bought was CRC This stuff https://crcindustries.com.au/crc-belt-grip-400g-3081/

Good suggestion, thank you!