my overly accurate alignment checking procedure

[Ken S]

One of the reasons I like the text up grinding wheel mounting procedure demonstrated by Wolfgang is that it seems adequately accurate without being overly accurate. I define "overly accurate" as adding needless complications without adding practical benefits. The alignment procedure I devised is overly accurate. It is too cumbersome to be useful, especially with multiple grinding wheels. It will not be part of "my custom".

Ken

[John Hancock Sr]

I define "overly accurate" as adding needless complications without adding practical benefits.

Completely agree. My test is "does it do the job". If it does (or in most cases even better) then it really is good enough.

Not to say I cannot improve my technique.

1. Shapen
2. Observe the results
3. Examine my technique to see if it can improve
4. Modify my technique
5. Goto 1.

I can always do better. The last time I sharpened my planer blades I was not happy so next time I will try and improve my technique. Also try to avoid running boards with nails through the planner

[Ken S]

John,

I agree with your idea about something doing the job. I agree even more if something can get the job done better.

When I was first developing the kenjig, I used no math. My simple "by eye" measurement, while not exact, was consistent and repeatable. Then Dutchman posted his Grinding Angle tables, based on solid mathematics. these were a quantum leap better than my simple method. Once I figured out how to use them, they worked much better for me and did not complicate things. (My last math class was in high school in 1968, so getting started was a bit slow.)

While Dutchman's tables were a genuine improvement, my shaft alignment procedure just complicated things.

Ken

[HaioPaio]

Ken
I'm afraid that I'm not familiar with your shaft alignment procedure. Could you be so kind to guide me to the place where it is described?

[Ken S]

Since you ask, I will explain my overly complicated shaft alignment procedure.

Instead of using the grinding wheel end of the shaft, like the text up method Wolfgang demonstrates, I started with the honing wheel (dry) end of the shaft. The rubber drive wheel and leather honing wheel (or composite wheel) are secured to the shaft with holes and short studs. On the T8, there are three of each, allowing for three possible combinations.

Start out by selecting which stud/ hole combination will be used with the drive wheel. Secure the drive wheel and place a Sharpie mark vertically above the shaft on the drive wheel. Do the same with the honing wheel, making sure the vertical line is visible on the outside of the honing wheel. As long as the outside line is above and vertical, the shaft will always be in the same orientation.

At this point, just use the text up orientation of the grinding wheel. This makes the entire shaft in constant alignment.

Now, the reasons this only adds needless complications: It becomes excessively complicated with multiple grinding wheels. Also, the Tormek main shaft on all models is made of machined 12mm diameter steel. There is very little chance that it would be bent. I think our precision alignment testing is better used elsewhere.

I recommend hitting the delete key with this idea.

Ken