Using the Tormek axe jig SVA170 with old hatchets

[tcsharpen]

I have 3 very old hatchets of different styles, acquired from relatives. One looks to be a roofing or construction hatchet since it has a hammer on one side.  It still fits into the jig though.

None have any visible bevel to match. All are a mess with crooked edges, all convex down to the "edge", all practically blunt.  I First tried to black marker the average edge and match it.  After I did that I measured the angle on the anglemaster and it was 60 degrees. It now had a point but would barely tear paper.  I've got quite a bit of work ahead. More to post as it unfolds.

I've read various resources.  Note to Rich Colvin. Looks like the axe page reference to the Forest Service axe manual has moved.  Perhaps this is it now:  https://www.fs.usda.gov/inside-fs/delivering-mission/deliver/one-moving-part-forest-service-ax-manual

[Ken S]

TC,

I believe your hatchet with a hammer head on one end is a "half hatchet". I have one which I inherited from my grandfather. I remember the carpenter who added a room onto my parents' home in 1960 using one. As I recall, the hatchet ends were traditionally left blunt, although, I do not know why.

Ken

[RickKrung]

...snip...
I've read various resources.  Note to Rich Colvin. Looks like the axe page reference to the Forest Service axe manual has moved.  Perhaps this is it now:  https://www.fs.usda.gov/inside-fs/delivering-mission/deliver/one-moving-part-forest-service-ax-manual

That looks to be an excellent and very complete resource. An earlier USFS manual is located here.  I found one on a USFS site, but it was only one or two of the chapters.  The link above is a complete manual.

I wonder if you could make a working jig of the sharpening bevel profile from the images in these manuals.

Rick

[tcsharpen]

I spent some time with a hand file to thin down the cheek of the hatchet to be more similar to the other profiles I've seen, something which might actually fit into the above template, but judging by eye since I don't have the template. I cleaned up the hand filing a little bit freehand on the Tormek.  After that I went back to the axe jig and dropped the USB a couple turns and reground the edge.  It now measures about 42 degrees, and cuts paper.  Not quite yet at the recommended 20-35 degrees, but getting there.

[RichColvin]

All, thank you for the assistance.  I've updated the Sharpening Handbook to reflect that.

[HaioPaio]

........ It now measures about 42 degrees, and cuts paper.  Not quite yet at the recommended 20-35 degrees, but getting there.

Not sure if I understand correctly.
I thought if one is using the WM-200 touching the side of the hatchet, the included angle would be measured. So the 42deg would be equivalent to 21 dps?

[tcsharpen]

It was measured on the bevel so that 42 is inclusive angle. When you read about axes and hatchets it commonly refers to 20-35 inclusive depending on type/usage, not per side, if I'm understanding it correctly.  I'm new to this also so open to instruction.

[HaioPaio]

As per the "The Forest Service Ax Manual - one moving part", 17 to 21 dps is suggested for the bevel, wich is 34 to 42 deg inclusive.
However, an microbevel of 25 to 32 dps (50 to 64 inclusive) is recommended in addition. 

However, you are talking about hatchets, not axes. I should read more carefully.

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[tcsharpen]

As per the "The Forest Service Ax Manual - one moving part", 17 to 21 dps is suggested for the bevel, wich is 34 to 42 deg inclusive.
However, an microbevel of 25 to 32 dps (50 to 64 inclusive) is recommended in addition. 

However, you are talking about hatchets, not axes. I should read more carefully.

Yes, I've read that page as well, but perhaps there may be some errors there?  Note RichColvin's Sharpening Handbook says axes are 20-35 inclusive, based on type/usage.  This is in agreement with other sources, including some notable vendors of high-end, non-racing style, axes.  I've also seen various videos on how to create an axe gauge, and for instance when they describe making it for 25 degrees, they mark it for 12.5 degrees per side.

[Ken S]

Another good reference for axes:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/books-and-dvds/41137-the-axe-book

Ken

[RichColvin]

I added the U.S. Forest Service recommendations as a separate line in the Sharpening Handbook.  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/GT-Axe.html

[WimSpi]

Here is another link to an axe manufacturer from Sweden that has a very good reputation in Europe:

https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/



By the way, we considered (in the Netherlands) the characteristic difference between a cabinetmaker and a carpenter is the axe.

Carpenters in earlier times used the axe a lot. They are "clovers" of wood. In which one must pay close attention to the thread of the wood.
Furniture makers are more 'cutters' of wood.