Knife Point Setting Template

[cbwx34]

thank you.Idid not write it clear,sorry.I meant some tip for lift handle movemenet:)But I will check forum in more details,it has to be discussed already:)

Ah.  There may be some info on that too in the other thread.  But there's no set rules, other than what you've already started to figure out... it also is dependent on where you clamp the blade in relation to the belly/tip area.

Easiest way to learn is to get a knife you can practice on, mark the blade with a Sharpie, then clamp the blade in various locations (close to the tip, in the middle, close to the heel), and learn where metal is removed in each location.

[Ken S]

hi Ken,
how exactly did you measure please? I have very long knife to sharpen - more than 30cm and I would probably need to adapt Jan's template. Many thanks.

Jan,

Thank you for posting this useful visual aid.

I came up with the 139mm length by noting the minimum and maximum distances with my three most commonly used kitchen knives, paring (with Tormek small knife tool in knife jig); slicer; and chef's knife. 139mm was around midpoint of the common part of the range, and allowed some room for grinding wheel diameter wear.

I would encourage all of you to do these measurements for yourselves. It takes only a very few minutes, and will deepen your understanding of the process.

Jan, I will print your drawing and incorporate it into my knife sharpening.  Good work.

Ken

Tomas,

I arrived at the 139 mm projection figure as a common length which would accommodate most knives without having to reset the support bar or jig length. In your case, with essentially one knife of concern, I would recommend ignoring the 139mm length and using a Projection length which fits your knife. If your knife presently has a good bevel angle, I would just adjust the support bar Distance using the marker technique. Or you could use any of the computer programs if you wish.

Is the standard US-105 support bar long enough for your knife? If not, you have several options:
The best (and most expensive) choice is to purchase the expanded range Tormek US-430. This is a support which has both more length and height. It is also around $100US. If you frequently need more length or height, this is your best choice.)

The other choice is to use the Tormek platform jig. While this option is not fully jig supported, it is much steadier than freehand. You can use it set for one side, and then carefully sliding it for the other side. A much better choice is to clamp a homemade diving board onto it which allows you to fully sharpen both bevels without moving it. This arrangement is very fully described on the forum as either Herman's Homemade Small Platform or Ionut's small platform. (Herman's is a more permanent set up; Ionut's is just clamped on.)

Ken

[torr]

Jan,
thank you very much,I appreciate that you spend time on this. I had knife in the same position prior I wrote here, it just looked to me not right.But now when I saw that you had it in the same position I feel much more sure to use your template also for longer knives.

[torr]

Ken,
thank you very much for answer.Regarding lenght of bar,I was in the limits of its size,but I had only couple mm in reserve.Working with such long knife with my setup was not comfy.Bevel was not good,on heel it was like 14 maybe less, and then it got various degrees on the blade lenght.Other problem was that bevels were not same on each size.I sharpened the knife now best I could, it is very sharp and has very good apex-I was able to peel layers from paper sheet surface.
I will read here further threads, I though I know enough, but it is now true:)

[GRW]

Jan,

Man, does that template work!!  It is the answer to even edge bevels - what a relief.  You got it so right....  hat's off to you.

I love it when something just works, without further fiddling and fabrication.

The beer's on me!

Gary