Knife Point Setting Template

[Jan]

Fernando, I have to correct my statement in reply #28. My Excel script works for all Tormek machines with standard USB and Tormek knife jig. Sorry for confusing you.

Jan

[Fernando]

Fernando, I have to correct my statement in reply #28. My Excel script works for all Tormek machines with standard USB and Tormek knife jig. Sorry for confusing you.

Jan

Ok, thanks for the clarification, I plan to use that utility all weekend, to see how it goes ...

[torr]

hello,
I tried it on standard long knife, it is working perfectly.But then I got to sharpen knife with 30 blade -Global Chef knife G-16.But to have point of knife (:-) ) on the arc jig would has to be almost on the end of blade.
What is solution for long knives please?Should I just move those 2 vertical lines more to right?

Many thanks Jan for all your contribution, you are helping people a lot.

Tomas

[Jan]

Tomas, use the knife jig SVM-45 and place the centre of the knife jig approximately 3 1/4" (8.25 cm) from the point of the knife. Test this setup with sharpie. I hope it will work fine.

Jan

[torr]

thank you Jan.I did it yesterday, but it looked to me little strange setup. You know, like 70% of blade length was behind the jig-45. It look not very proportional. I did not wanted to tested it on wheel, as that knife costs too much:-)

[Jan]

OK, you are correct, the long blades have to be mounted in this disproportional way, which is not very suitable for sharpening the heel of the blade.

Jan

[torr]

ok, so I should probably come back to imaginary line between point and heel of blade and set jig cca in the middle, plus take into consideration shape of blade.Or maybe I would experiment a bit with putting those 2 vertical lines more to right?Im sure there is math behind it and maybe you you are going to tell me right away it is nonsense:)

[torr]

hi Ken,
how exactly did you measure please? I have very long knife to sharpen - more than 30cm and I would probably need to adapt Jan's template. Many thanks.

Jan,

Thank you for posting this useful visual aid.

I came up with the 139mm length by noting the minimum and maximum distances with my three most commonly used kitchen knives, paring (with Tormek small knife tool in knife jig); slicer; and chef's knife. 139mm was around midpoint of the common part of the range, and allowed some room for grinding wheel diameter wear.

I would encourage all of you to do these measurements for yourselves. It takes only a very few minutes, and will deepen your understanding of the process.

Jan, I will print your drawing and incorporate it into my knife sharpening.  Good work.

Ken

[cbwx34]

ok, so I should probably come back to imaginary line between point and heel of blade and set jig cca in the middle, plus take into consideration shape of blade.Or maybe I would experiment a bit with putting those 2 vertical lines more to right?Im sure there is math behind it and maybe you you are going to tell me right away it is nonsense:)

No... especially don't do the "imaginary line..." setup.

It may not look right to have the jig so close to the belly/tip area on a long blade, but for lack of a better term, that's where the "action is", in other words that's the area that is affected whether you pivot the blade or lift the handle to reach the tip.  The long straight portion isn't affected.

But, I did a search on the model you wrote, and it doesn't look like there's much curve to it?  If that's the case. I would clamp the knife parallel to the edge of the main part of the blade... you still may have to set it closer to the tip, but not as close as the template indicates, since there's not much curve.

Mark the entire edge with a Sharpie make a light pass and see where it's removed along the entire edge, and adjust as needed.  (Do this on both sides).

Ken's measurement is the Projection Distance... the distance from the blade edge to the Stop Collar... it don't really apply to what you're trying to figure out here.

[torr]

Thank you for reply. No there is not much curve on it. Thing is that it was sharpened previously by different sharpener and I wanted to create as regular bevel as possible- because when it came to me, it did not have it.So this is why Im asking for some way how to make it.
I asked about the way how Ken measured data because he mentioned he took it from his 3 standard knives, and I think that Global 16 is bigger than standard kitchen knife:-)

BTW.Why not to use "imaginary line" ? Many thanks for help.

Tomas

[cbwx34]

Thank you for reply. No there is not much curve on it. Thing is that it was sharpened previously by different sharpener and I wanted to create as regular bevel as possible- because when it came to me, it did not have it.So this is why Im asking for some way how to make it.
I asked about the way how Ken measured data because he mentioned he took it from his 3 standard knives, and I think that Global 16 is bigger than standard kitchen knife:-)

BTW.Why not to use "imaginary line" ? Many thanks for help.

Tomas

Blades that don't have much curve have some flexibility in adjustment.  The next question (should have asked before), do you lift the handle to reach the tip, or pivot the blade?  If you do the latter, one thing you can do is draw a straight line across the wheel, and with the machine off, set the straight part of the blade on the line, then move and pivot the blade to reach the tip.  You basically want the belly/tip area to stay close to the line, so you set the clamp accordingly.  (Here's an old picture that kinda shows what I mean)...



The "imaginary line" setup came from sharpeners that clamp the blade in place, like a KME or Wicked Edge, and the stone is on a pivot.  It actually works there more by coincidence... but it doesn't apply to how the Tormek setup works.

[torr]

thank you for answer.It is very helpful.

I lift the handle. When I did pivot move, i was getting not equal bevel on the tip. Is there some hint for this kind of sharpening method movement?

[cbwx34]

thank you for answer.It is very helpful.

I lift the handle. When I did pivot move, i was getting not equal bevel on the tip. Is there some hint for this kind of sharpening method movement?

Basically what I just showed... you want to keep the edge close to the line on the stone as it pivots.  There's a thread on it here:  To Pivot or Not to Pivot....  (Set aside some time, it's 9 pages). 

[torr]

thank you.Idid not write it clear,sorry.I meant some tip for lift handle movemenet:)But I will check forum in more details,it has to be discussed already:)

[Jan]

Tomas,

the attached picture shows how I would mount the knife in the knife jig.

For such a big knife as the G-16 the projection distance 139 mm is too small.

Tip sharpening is a trade-off between pivoting and handle lifting. If the shape of the blade corresponds well with my template, than pivoting is the dominant movement to get equal bevel on the tip.

Jan