Oiling LA120 wheels

[Mike153624]

Hi guys, my first post as an upcoming T8 owner.  It is to be my Christmas gift from my wife and I can't wait to start using it.  I have searched the forum but can't find an answer to my query so apologies in advance if I've missed the topic already.  Anyway, my question is, do you have to oil the LA120 leather wheels as you do with the normal honing wheel?  I can see from the forum that the normal wheel needs oiling prior to first use and before the  application of the honing paste but can't find reference to oiling the LA120.  Now I assume (a dangerous thing to do at times) that if the oil softens the leather and helps it to absorb the honing paste then the leather on the LA120 would benefit from the same treatment?  I also am assuming that honing paste is used on the LA120 but don't see any reference to that either.  Any help or advice will be gratefully received.  I would also like to add that having looked through a large part of the forum there seems to be a really nice tone to the whole thing with a feeling of genuine helpfulness and cameraderie sadly missing on many other sites.  Thanks in advance, Mike 

[cbwx34]

Hi guys, my first post as an upcoming T8 owner.  It is to be my Christmas gift from my wife and I can't wait to start using it.  I have searched the forum but can't find an answer to my query so apologies in advance if I've missed the topic already.  Anyway, my question is, do you have to oil the LA120 leather wheels as you do with the normal honing wheel?  I can see from the forum that the normal wheel needs oiling prior to first use and before the  application of the honing paste but can't find reference to oiling the LA120.  Now I assume (a dangerous thing to do at times) that if the oil softens the leather and helps it to absorb the honing paste then the leather on the LA120 would benefit from the same treatment?  I also am assuming that honing paste is used on the LA120 but don't see any reference to that either.  Any help or advice will be gratefully received.  I would also like to add that having looked through a large part of the forum there seems to be a really nice tone to the whole thing with a feeling of genuine helpfulness and cameraderie sadly missing on many other sites.  Thanks in advance, Mike 

This is from the LA120 page...

It is used together with the Tormek Honing Compound PA-70. When the discs are new, impregnate them with a few drops of light machine oil before you apply the honing compound.

https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/accessories/other-accessories/la-120-profiled-leather-honing-wheel/

BUT, I would use very little, if any oil... there is some oil in the Compound, and it may not take much more than is what already in it.  There is a "danger" of over oiling, so don't use much if you do.  (I'd try just the compound first, and unless it completely dries out... just use that).

[Mike153624]

Doh!  Thank you for that, never looked there. 

Kind regards

Mike

[RichColvin]

Mike,

There are many of us on this forum who wish we had asked the wise ones such questions before getting too liberal with the old 3-in-1 oil.

You will love the T-8!  And I'm sure it is Christmas somewhere 😀.

Kind regards,
Rich

[cbwx34]

Doh!  Thank you for that, never looked there. 

Kind regards

Mike

I only found it 'cause I had to lookup what the LA-120 was. 

[Mike153624]

Thanks guys.  No doubt I will be back once I start using the T8 in anger.

Kind regards

Mike

[GKC]

I only found it 'cause I had to lookup what the LA-120 was. 

CB, if it is easier than wherever else you go to look up the part numbers, here is a list you can paste into a note on your phone:

Tormek Jig Numbers

US-105 universal support for T-7 & T-8
XB-100 support base (plate and knobs only)
MB-100 Multi-Base
USB universal support bracket
BGM-100 bench grinder mounting set

SVM-45 knife jig
SVM-140 knife jig
SVM-00 small knife jig
SVA-170 axe jig
SVS-38 short tool jig
SVD-185 gouge jig (old)
SVD-186 gouge jig
SVS-50 multi jig
SVH-60 straight edge jig ('92-'07)
SE-76 square edge jig (old)
SE-77 square edge jig
SVX-150 scissors jig
SVD-110 tool rest
SVH-320 planer blade attachment
SVP-80 moulding knife attachment
DBS-22 drill bit sharpening attachment
TT-50 truing tool
SP-650 stone grader
WM-200 AngleMaster
TTS-100 turning tool setter
LA-120 profiled leather honing wheels
LA-124 narrow profiled "discs" (leather honing wheels)
RB-180 rotating base
RM-533 rubber work mat

Stones
SG-200/250 original grindstone
SB-250 Blackstone silicon grindstone
SJ-200/250 Japanese waterstone
DC-250  Diamond Coarse (360)
DF-250  Diamond Fine (600)
DE-250  Diamond Extra-fine (1200)
DWc-200 Diamond coarse (320) for T2
DWF-200 Diamond fine (600) for T2

Gord

[Sharpco]

If you feel the leather wheel is too dry, apply oil to it. But not too much. Tormek said sawing machine oil is good choice.

[GeoTech]

If you feel the leather wheel is too dry, apply oil to it. But not too much. Tormek said sawing machine oil is good choice.

I think he meant to say sewing machine oil, which does work well.

[Mike153624]

Just one more thing, as Columbo would have said, is there much difference between sewing machine oil, mineral oil or 3 in 1 when it comes to using them with the honing wheels?  I appreciate that lubricity etc may vary with each type but as this is only required to soften the leather is there any advantage in using any one particular oil as long as it's a low viscosity?  I now understand that too much oil is not good so I intend to use it sparingly.  Mamy thanks guys.

Mike

[GeoTech]

I believe sewing machine oil and mineral oil are similar but 3 in 1 is too heavy for conditioning the leather wheel.

[GKC]

I find that the terminology can be confusing. 

Sewing machine oil and 3-in-1 oil and the like are all mineral oils (petroleum-based oils). 

The mineral oil you get in the drug store has some bad stuff refined out of it, and so gets called "pharmaceutical" grade or more generically "white" mineral oil.  This is what Tormek provides with their new machines for the conditioning of the honing wheel (see the manual and their MSDS for the oil), but that could be more out of concern that someone might use a kitchen knife after honing without washing it, than any particular qualities of the oil for conditioning the wheel.  Interestingly, Tormek has not chosen a vegetable oil, such as might normally be used for conditioning leather, perhaps because mineral oils will disperse better in the honing compound.

Sewing machine oils can have different viscosities but tend to be about the equivalent of about SAE 10 and 3-in-1 about SAE 20. 

I don't know if either of these viscosities would be better (I can think of reasons why each might be better) but drug store mineral oil is so easy to get, and it is what Tormek supplies, so that is what I would use.

Gord

[cbwx34]

I find that the terminology can be confusing. 

Sewing machine oil and 3-in-1 oil and the like are all mineral oils (petroleum-based oils). 

The mineral oil you get in the drug store has some bad stuff refined out of it, and so gets called "pharmaceutical" grade or more generically "white" mineral oil.  This is what Tormek provides with their new machines for the conditioning of the honing wheel (see the manual and their MSDS for the oil), but that could be more out of concern that someone might use a kitchen knife after honing without washing it, than any particular qualities of the oil for conditioning the wheel.  Interestingly, Tormek has not chosen a vegetable oil, such as might normally be used for conditioning leather, perhaps because mineral oils will disperse better in the honing compound.

Sewing machine oils can have different viscosities but tend to be about the equivalent of about SAE 10 and 3-in-1 about SAE 20. 

I don't know if either of these viscosities would be better (I can think of reasons why each might be better) but drug store mineral oil is so easy to get, and it is what Tormek supplies, so that is what I would use.

Gord

Interesting.  I've found the "pharmacy grade" tends to be thicker than other versions, and doesn't work as well on sharpening stones (no idea in its use for conditioning leather).  I haven't compared them, but my impression was the Tormek oil was thinner also.

I would think the addition of honing compound to the leather wheel, would negate the need for a "food safe" oil?

Ken posted this in another thread...

...
I have broken in five leather honing wheels and a set of profile wheels. Tormek oil, mineral oil, or three in one all work fine. Just keep the amount minimal.
...

[Mike153624]

Thanks guys, all advice gratefully received.

Mike

[GKC]

Funny thing, a few hours after posting about the oils for honing leather wheel I was stropping some carving tools on my flat strops, and smiled to note that I infuse the honing compound into these strops with a suet/abrasive mixture I learned from and English carver.  Suet! I won't be dripping suet on my Tormek stropping wheel, but the thought I had as I stropped away was that the objective is to get the honing compound into the leather, and probably many lubricants will do the trick.

Gord