Using 250mm stones on the T-3 / T-4

[Ken S]

I just watched the truing video linked by CB.........

If saving time is that important, I have to wonder why someone is using a Tormek. I have had an untrue wheel sneak up on me enough times to become a believer in frequent, light truing. With sharpening, as with any operation, if we control the gremlins we can, sometimes we can dodge the unseen gremlins.

I like to keep my grinding wheels as close to 100% true as possible. I do not believe this causes any more wear in the long run than waiting until the wheels are barely round, and the work will be more accurate. Start with the TT-50 diamond not quite making contact. Advance the diamond forward ever so slightly, perhaps half a number. Make an entire pass, removing just a little from the high spots. Continue with these small adjustments until you are lightly cutting the entire circumference and width of the wheel. Then stop! No need for "one more for good measure". This low stress method is gentler for the wheel, diamond, and sharpener.

If you happen to be one of the few very busy professionals who does not have time to do this, assign the task to one of your apprentices.

Ken

[Elden]

Ken,
   I agree that the wheel should never be allowed to become that far out of round. Nevertheless it was. Maybe he bought the unit that way for $50 USD. The first thing that should have been checked, in my thinking, is the shaft bent or could the wheel be repositioned on the shaft to improve the out of roundness.
   Actually what I would have applied this method to if I had been aware of it, would have been when refurbishing my neighbor's old pedal, sandstone grinding wheel. Approximately 3/4" (1.91 cm) had to be removed from the diameter.