Reviving a dried out leather honing wheel

[canuck]

Hi everyone,

New member here. I purchased a used Tormek T-2000 this week and have been spending a lot of time reading forum posts and watching videos about it's use, but I'd really like some advice regarding the leather stroping/honing wheel. I think the machine has been sitting unused for many years and the leather wheel looks very dry. From what I've been read here , it is generally recommended to add oil to the wheel once when it is new and then never again. But what about a wheel that hasn't been used in a long time? Should it be re-oiled? I don't even know if it ever was oiled. If I'm adding new oil, should I do anything else to the wheel first?

Thank in advance for any advice and I'm sorry if this has already been dealt with in other posts. I've searched the forums and couldn't find anything that addressed this specific issue. I've posted a few pics of the machine and wheel below so you can get a better idea of the condition.

[cbwx34]

Hi everyone,

New member here. I purchased a used Tormek T-2000 this week and have been spending a lot of time reading forum posts and watching videos about it's use, but I'd really like some advice regarding the leather stroping/honing wheel. I think the machine has been sitting unused for many years and the leather wheel looks very dry. From what I've been read here , it is generally recommended to add oil to the wheel once when it is new and then never again. But what about a wheel that hasn't been used in a long time? Should it be re-oiled? If I'm adding new oil, should I do anything else to the wheel first?

Thank in advance for any advice and I'm sorry if this has already been dealt with in other posts. I've searched the forums and couldn't find anything that addressed this specific issue. I've posted a few pics of the machine and wheel below so you can get a better idea of the condition.

Nice looking machine.

Do you have the Tormek compound?  It has oil in it.  I would try that first.  I learned (the hard way), the wheel can be "over oiled".  From your pictures, the wheel looks in great shape.  Only thing you might consider is maybe using a nylon brush on it first... just to make sure it doesn't have any dirt or debris in it.

I add Tormek compound by putting a bead around the wheel, then rubbing it in with an old toothbrush... seems to give it a good coat.

That's my .02.   

[canuck]

Thanks for the quick reply. I don't have the Tormek compound, but I'm planning to order a tube. The only extra thing I got that's not in the pictures is the older square edge jig. So I need to order the AngleMaster and Stone Grader as well. I'd like to order the Hand Tool Kit, but I'm already stretching my budget. So I may hold off on that for awhile. My main goal right now is to sharpen a few chisels, and a bunch of hand planes I picked up at garage sales this summer.

[cbwx34]

Thanks for the quick reply. I don't have the Tormek compound, but I'm planning to order a tube. The only extra thing I got that's not in the pictures is the older square edge jig. So I need to order the AngleMaster and Stone Grader as well. I'd like to order the Hand Tool Kit, but I'm already stretching my budget. So I may hold off on that for awhile. My main goal right now is to sharpen a few chisels, and a bunch of hand planes I picked up at garage sales this summer.

You're welcome.  I would probably add the "Truing Tool" to your list... you'll need it at some point.  I'm not into chisels and hand planes (I do knives), but my understanding is, things need to be kept "trued up" for those items.

If you don't already know... if you go to the Tormek main page, and register the machine (you should see a link under "My Tormek" at the top of the page), you can download the copy of the latest manual, and see some additional videos.

[Ken S]

I second CB's comments, especially the truing tool. You are a special candidate for the Tips and Techniques topic locked at the top. (This is just my opinion; I know others will disagree.) You have a working Tormek and a square edge jig, and not much else. You do need the truing tool (the TT-50), the stone grader, a tube of PA-70 honing compound, and an Anglemaster. fortunately you do not presently own the hand tool kit. You have the opportunity to really learn how to use your Tormek by learning from a chisel. The other tools will soon follow.

Incidentally, again, just my opinion, I'm not a fan of kits. I think you would be farther ahead to buy the jigs you need when you need them. I have most of the Tormek jigs. Some of them I have never used. I have never purchased a kit. I do not have the axe jig because I do not have an axe. You will only need a scissors jig if you sharpen scissors. The regular knife jig will handle most knives. What you need next is skill. The rest will follow as needed.

Do keep us posted.

Ken

[RichColvin]

Canuck,

I agree with Ken.  Buying jigs as you need them, spreads out the cost, and allows you to master each one before moving to another.  (Plus, you can have a Tormek Christmas more often.)

I also own a Tormek T-2000 :  owned it for 15 years now.  And, like Ken, I have almost every jig.  The ones I don't have aren't something I would use (I have no planer nor moulder, so I would not use those jigs).

The other things I recommend you add to your wish list are the MSK-250 Stainless Steel Shaft, & the US-105 Universal Support.  Nice upgrades !

Rich

[Ken S]

One of the problems with buying jigs you think you might use someday is that by the time you might get around to using them Tormek may have an improved version. A prime example of this is the 185 gouge jig. The 185 was the state of the art for many years. It is still as useful as it ever was, however, the new design, the 186, is markedly improved. After using both, I quickly concluded that the 186 was enough of an improvement to warrent replacing a working 185. It was more than a cosmetic makeover. Active turners who used the 185 did well. Those of us who bought the 185 to have on hand for possible future use were not so wise.

Ken

[canuck]

Thanks for the advice on the kits. I was looking at the price difference compared to buying the jigs separately, and it's really not much of a savings anyway. I'll probably start with the regular knife jig so I can do some kitchen knives.

I will order the "Truing Tool" as well, but maybe not this week. The wheel did have some issues when I bought it, but I was able to true the wheel with a modified T-bar style diamond dresser. I tried a few different ideas and techniques, but eventually got good results using the method pictured below. It may not be perfect, but I think it's pretty good and certainly much better than it was. The previous owner had ground something against the right edge of the wheel and there was an obvious bevel on that edge and a few high and low spots in the middle of the wheel.

I've got three 3/4" chisels of various ages and conditions lined up and ready to practice with. I also registered the machine and downloaded the latest manual. Thanks for the tip cbwx34.

 

[Ken S]

You are off to a great start! I am especially impressed with your truing arrangement. Eventually you may want a TT-50, however, you have cleverly moved it from a must have item to a future maybe. You are developing a practical sense of your Tormek. Your three chisels will stand by you well in learning the sound and feel of your Tormek, as well as the basic skills. As much as I appreciate the newer models, your Tormek will give you fine service throughout your life. You will not outgrow it. As you read many of our posts, you will learn that the Tormek is both a solid machine and as versatile as the mind of the operator. Do not be hesitant to experiment.

Ken

[Elden]

   Make sure you get the TT-50, not the TT-50U which comes without the diamond tip unless you already have it. See:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2435.msg12248#msg12248

[Ken S]

Excellent comment, Elden.

I made this mistake a couple years ago. I thought I had ruined my diamond. I thought I found a complete TT-50 for the price of just the replacement. The error was mine. I had read the lidting too quickly in my bargain fever. Fortunate, the dealer, Advanced Machinery, is reputable and settled fairly with me. It left a good feeling for them.

Wherever you choose, be sure to check with your national agent to learn the list price. There is much price gouging online. I have had a positive experience with Big Bear Tools and am a customer of several decades with Lee Valley. Canada is blessed with reliable Tormek dealers.

Ken

[turbettr]

I had the same problem with the leather wheel when I bought my used T-2000 except that it was in much worse condition.  I started by softening the leather with oil and let it set for several days.  Then I turned the machine on and used a carbide paint scraper to scrape away the crust.  I can't say that I got great results because the inside of the leather is pretty well dished out.  But before I replace it, I'm going to turn an MDF disk on my lathe and see how that works with some green stropping compound on my chisels and plane irons.   

[jeffs55]

Well, one thing for sure. You do not need help on how to post pictures! Great shots. There are many on this site that have a problem with that.

[kwakster]

I had the same problem with the leather wheel when I bought my used T-2000 except that it was in much worse condition.  I started by softening the leather with oil and let it set for several days.  Then I turned the machine on and used a carbide paint scraper to scrape away the crust.  I can't say that I got great results because the inside of the leather is pretty well dished out.  But before I replace it, I'm going to turn an MDF disk on my lathe and see how that works with some green stropping compound on my chisels and plane irons.

Great minds seem to think alike, as i'm currently experimenting with an MDF ring over the leather honing wheel & 1.0 micron diamond compound.

[Herman Trivilino]

You definitely need the truing tool. You really cannot get by without it. And the stone grader, too. You already have the square edge jig. Those three items came with the SuperGrind 2000 when it was new, and they are essential for good results.

Your truing method is a good substitute, but you will find yourself going through diamond graders frequently, and they won't go deep enough to give you a good truing. A slightly out-of-round grindstone will quickly go further out of round, and this is a frustration you don't need.