Bevel Angles and the Cook's Country Sharpener Review

[Herman Trivilino]

As I've mentioned before, I'm a fan of the PBS series Cook's Country. They have good recipes and product recommendations, including recommendations for kitchen knives. They're all about testing, so they run their recipes through taste tests, and the products they review through tests that involve volunteers performing regular tasks.

Today's episode featured a review of knife sharpeners. I'm a paid subscriber to their web site so after watching today's episode I went there to read the text version of the review. Unfortunately it's not posted there yet, but I did find a similar one they did in July 2015. I'm posting this here, not because of what they say about knife sharpeners, but because of what they say about knife sharpening. Specifically, the bevel angles. Here's an excerpt ...

Japanese bladesmiths have long favored chef's-style knives with blades that are ultraslim—that is, sharpened to about 15 degrees on either side of the blade—and for good reason: In addition to being thin and lightweight, these blades have a supernarrow cutting edge, which helps make them razor-sharp. We've also come to favor a thinner edge. After years of testing dozens of knives, our repeat favorite is from Victorinox, a Swiss-made knife that is sharpened to 15 degrees on either side of the edge, allowing it to push and slide through food more easily than do more traditional European blades sharpened to at least 20 degrees.

To maintain that narrow edge, we use a tool specifically designed to sharpen a blade to 15 degrees. Our favorite models, both from Chef'sChoice, are a manual and an electric sharpener that each do a fine job of restoring an ultrakeen edge to an Asian-style knife. But in recent years the trend toward slimmer knives—and slimmer knife sharpeners—has spread west, as European manufacturers including Wüsthof, Henckels, Messermeister, and Mercer have launched their own 15-degree knives and sharpeners. (In fact, Wüsthof and Henckels have discontinued their 20-degree knives.)

So this verifies that the Victorinox knife I bought a few years ago on their recommendation is indeed ground at a bevel angle of 15°. The blade is so thin that I was unable to verify that by measurement with the Angle Master. And for the same reason, unable to verify it with the marker method. The blade is so thin that the bevel is not wide enough to be seen clearly except under magnification, and even then I had difficulties.

By the way, today's episode also included magnified high resolution photographs that verified their testing methods. I'll leave out the details except to say that they didn't test the Tormek. The machines they did test performed well and would be easier to use, but all they'll ever sharpen are knives!

[stevebot]

I can confirm that Wusthof switched to harder steel and 15 deg angles several years ago since I am a Wusthof dealer, but was not aware so many others have followed them. Japanese knife is no longer the correct terminology.  I suggest modern knife or high-end knife.

[SharpenADullWitt]

My understanding of the term, was it also involved different techniques.  (also generally different style of knives due to that)
Where we use a rocking motion with a chef's knife, for chopping they use a different style of knife or a cleaver. (they slice and peel with the knife more) I know metals have improved and blades have gone from more traditional forged construction, to stamped alloy's (including the mixtures commonly referred to as German steel).  My thoughts were the thinner stamped steel blades, with their lighter balance, had more to do with the angle change, then techniques.

[Ken S]

My knowledge ofkitchen knives is dated. When I researched and purchased my kitchen knives twenty five years ago, a bolster was considered an integral part of a fine knife. Now I notice more seemingly well knives with no bolsters. Is this part of the evolution of kitchen knives?

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

According to the tests done by Cook's Country, people prefer the thinner knives at the 15° bevel to the thicker knives at the 20° bevel for the routine kitchen tasks of slicing vegetables and meats. The slice through with less effort and are easier to use.

Different steel alloys and manufacturing techniques are required for knives to be able to hold an edge under these conditions. Perhaps it's now easier and cheaper for manufacturers to meet these requirements, and so they can make knives available at prices consumers are willing to pay. What people are willing to pay for items is dependent on cultural expectations. It could be that in the past people in Eastern cultures were willing to pay more for these better-performing knives, but now due to new alloys and manufacturing processes it's possible for manufacturers to make a go of it selling them in the West.

All of these factors likely contribute, Ken, to the reason that you don't see as many bolsters as you did in the past.

[Herman Trivilino]

Of course, the advantage for us Tormek owners is that we can experiment with different bevel angles. We can increase the bevel angle of Eastern knives, or decrease the bevel angle of Western knives. We are not trapped by the fixed 15° or 20° angle of the less-expensive sharpeners featured in the review.

[SharpenADullWitt]

Ken, Herman

I want you to both realize, Cook's Kitchen, is a commercial kitchen.  As I have stated, NSF rules as well as local codes that affect their decisions have changed.  The bolsters are more often on knives that have scales (effectively, riveted handles).  With the requirement of sealed handles, the bolsters (which are also a balance point), became a thing of the past (contamination point between them and the handle).
This doesn't affect a homeowners choice, but it certainly plays a big part in what/why they review what they do.  Balance and weight also play a part as a commercial kitchen, ones spends more time with a knife then the average person in their personal kitchen.  The lighter weight of the stamped knives, greatly reduce fatigue and injury.  With reduced fatigue, one will use the knife properly, which will help it stay sharp longer, rather then abuse it.
I would really like to supply them with a few knives to compare and see what they would like.  The big variables in them, from what the average person would see, are handle color, price, and country of origin.  Victornox is a name that the average person, will probably know (from the Swiss Army knives most often).  Dexter Russel, Update International, Mundial, are more commercial brands, then what is targeted at homeowners.  You can still get Victornox with Rosewood handles, but they don't have bolsters, and can't be used commercially. (those were/are Jeff Farris's favorites)  I tend (after playing with ones from my friends restaurant and knowing two chef's) to go for best value and convenience. (and the Tormek should allow me to sharpen them as needed)  If I want to Chop, rather then slice, I can use either the Update International cleaver, or (think it is a Dexter Russel) Chinese style/vegetable cleaver, that I picked up from a sharpening store, that was my go to before Tormek, and still is for specialty stuff (example, the commercial slicer blades from said restaurant).

[Ken S]

SADW,

You raise a very interesting point. In addition to being fluent with sharpening techniques, a good sharpener should also stay current with code regulations regarding commercial use of knives. Iwould include code for cutting boards as well as knives. Admittedly this effects restaurant use rather than home use, however, anyone who sharpens is likely to sharpen restaurant knives at some point. This is especially for a professional sharpener who may add a sideline of selling knives.

I also think a solid sharpening knowledge should include familiarity with kitchen cutting technique and knife design, including some metallurgy. A well prepared sharpener should know his craft beyond getting things sharp. We expect plumbers, electricians, hvac technicians and other tradesmen to work to code. We expect furniture builders to understand wood movement. A sharpener should know his craft as well.

Ken

ps Would you please define NSF? I am unfamiliar with the acronym.

[SharpenADullWitt]

National Sanitation Foundation, NSF.
http://www.nsf.org/about-nsf
All commercial use equipment has to have its mark.  This goes from smallwears (knives, silverware, etc), through large items like refrigerators and freezers.  (why you can't just buy a home freezer for cooling beer mugs, as local restaurants/bars used to be able to do, 20+ years ago)
I probably should have mentioned cutting boards as well, as they are mostly plastic now, with some pressed/manufactured wood exceptions.

[Ken S]

Very informative! Good job, SADW.

Ken