grading the grinding wheel for knives

[Jan]

Stig,

thank you for your prompt response and for a detailed description how you do it. It is inspiring for me! 

So far I have pushed the knife jig firmly on universal support bar, but have recognized that this is not the proper solution for longer knives, because I lost full control over the burr removal at some parts of the edge.

Regards
Jan

[Rob]

Having the knife edge angled to the leather to avoid the grinding wheel accidentally puts you into the same mode as when a turner does what's called a "sheer cut".  This is where the edge is at roughly 45 degrees to the fibres and cuts very cleanly with a sheering action.  The fact there is only a small amount of the edge in contact with the abrasive (in one location) is what gives a better finish whereas if the blade is flat on, a greater surface area is in contact and it's more difficult to control.

[Jan]

Rob, thank you for the supporting remark. Your point is well-taken. So far I was rather avoiding the angled positioning of the knife edge to the honing wheel, but now will add it on my repertoire.   

Jan

[Ken S]

Well done, Rob.  Good point.

Ken

[brettgrant99]

Jan,
When i first started at Tormek i used the jigs while honing. These days I do the honing freehand but with the jig still attached to the blade so if I see that I need to remove more steel, I still have the right adjustments and can sharpen more without re-mounting the knife. It also gives me better balance/control while honing.
You will not need to remove the stone with longer knifes, just turn the knife a little aside so you don't touch the stone. Actually the burr get removed a bit faster doing this than keeping the blade signed over the honing wheel. Freehand honing demands a little practice but its very well described in the handbook.

It's important to keep the knife/tool horizontal on top of the honing wheel and pull it slowly towards you until you see the burr starts to move at the edge. Then you know you are at the right place and can start to hone the edge using the burr as a guide.

Stig

I'll have to re-read the book.  I don't remember it being that clear in the book, but I can picture this explanation very well.

Thanks for the info.
Brett

[Ken S]

Stig,

I will try your techniqueduring my next sharpening session.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

It's important to keep the knife/tool horizontal on top of the honing wheel and pull it slowly towards you until you see the burr starts to move at the edge. Then you know you are at the right place and can start to hone the edge using the burr as a guide.

You have far keener vision that me, Stig. I have trouble enough seeing a burr, let alone seeing one move. I usually wipe a rag across the edge then examine with a magnifier and light, looking for the presence of snagged threads to be sure I have a burr that's continuous along the entire length of the edge.

[Stickan]

Herman,
Sounds like I have the eyes of superman :-)

Its not the burr itself I see, its the compound on the burr that shows. So when I am at the edge the burr catches more compound and shows the burr at the edge.
While honing you can anctually see that the burr/compound loosen and after a few more turns on the honingwheel the edge is pefectly sharp.

I probably use more honingcompound than the common user and I guess it's after all the demos I am doing. I show the hole process from shaping, sharpening, honing and papercutting/endgrain for every interested.
In the handbook we write that one application of compound last for 5-10 tools. This is correct but I use as little as possible every time which works good also.

I think we need to get this on film, hope my explination is understandible.

Brett,
There is some pictures about freehand grinding in the handbook in the chapter "Honing and Polishing"

Best,
Stig

[Ken S]

Very informative post, Stig.

I had not thought of looking for the compound clinging to the burr. I totally agree that this would benefit from having a video.

Ken