Questions about the Stone Grader SP-650

[Matfarsan]

I have a Tormek 1200, bought it new for some years ago but had some major accidents during my first knife sharping experience (I started out with my global knife and it didnt went that well  ) so since then my Tormek just been lying unused, until now.
Watched alot of videos and read how to sharpen knifes, so yesterday the Tormek came out and I tried to grind, this time with some better success, I even got the knife real sharp.
But from what I´ve read the stone on my 1200 has about 220 grit, and If I buy and use a Stone Grader SP-650 I can get it to 1000 grit.
But how often will I have to use the SP-650 to have the stone stay at 1000 grit?
Do I have to grade it everytime Im about to use it, or do I do this once and It stays in 1000 grit?

And, second.
What can I use in the kitchen to have the knife stay sharp? Arkansas stone or Ceramic sharpener? wich one is best?

Sincere
/Anders

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Anders (Matfarsan).

The standard Tormek grinding wheels, SG-200 and SG-250, are 220 grit. The stone grader works like a finish on wood or metal. The top microlayer is finish, but the substrata remains the same. With the fine side of the stone grader, a very thin layer of abrasive grit becomes less coarse. This finer grinding surface eventually reverts to the native 220 grit. How quickly this happens depends on the tools being ground. With broad, flat blades like plane blades and chisels, the finer grit "veneer" will last longer. With a non flat edge, such as a gouge, the stone will revert more quickly.

When you examine your ground edges, you will see a larger scratch pattern as the finer layer wears off. Overfrequent use of the stone grader will not hurt anything.

If you do not presently have the newer design TT-50 Truing Tool and micro adjust universal support, you will need these to keep your wheel true and flat. If you happen to have the older truing tool, you can reuse the diamond cluster and save some money by purchasing the TT-50U. The U is for upgrade. This lets you reuse an existing diamond cluster.

Keep in mind that the microadjust universal support designated 103 is the correct length for the 1200. The longer 105 series is too long for the end stop screw of the SE-76 to prevent a tool from going past the edge of the stone.

I like a ceramic sharpening "steel". I would not bother with a bench stone in the kitchen. The steel sharpening steels are generally like using coarse files....nasty!

Practice makes perfect. Keep posting.

Ken

[Elden]

   Welcome to the forum. In my personal experience, the grinding wheel will become loaded up (clogged) before reverting to the coarse state when doing knives and bench chisels. Others may have had different experiences.

[Ken S]

Excellent point, Elden.

Many of us go back to the days when we worked with oilstones. The stones themselves were not a problem, however, most were never dressed. Not only did this gradually introduce hollows, the stones gradually became less effective due to dulled grains. Today, we have diamond trying plates, which, if used religiously, will keep the oil stones cutting as new.

The small amount of time spent keeping the grinding wheel "tuned up" is repaid many times in time saved.

Ken

[wootz]

But how often will I have to use the SP-650 to have the stone stay at 1000 grit?
Do I have to grade it everytime Im about to use it, or do I do this once and It stays in 1000 grit?

With knives, as any straight edge tools, the stone will stay fine until you use the other side of the grader and rough it back up or true.
As Elden said, after a few knives the wheel will get clogged with metal particles, becoming less effective, and to declog/refresh the surface you use the fine side of the grading stone, so the wheel stays fine graded

[Ken S]

Well stated, Wootz.

I vaguely recall Jeff farris stating that he routinely used the truing tool before beginning major turning too sharpening.

Sadly, I do not recall Jeff making any comment about how often he changed stone graders during his busy demonstrating schedule. That would be worth knowing.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

Do I have to grade it everytime Im about to use it, or do I do this once and It stays in 1000 grit?

In my experience, it will quickly lose it's effectiveness as a 1000 grit grindstone and will need to be refreshed to remove steel particles. While sharpening even one knife I will often refresh the grindstone a couple of times. I apply the coarse side of the stone grader for just a few seconds, then apply the find side for 30-60 seconds. That will refresh the stone enough to sharpen one knife.

What can I use in the kitchen to have the knife stay sharp? Arkansas stone or Ceramic sharpener? wich one is best?

I use a steel almost every time I pick up a kitchen knife. If the edge slides across the top of my thumb nail it's a sign that it needs a touch up with the steel. If the steel doesn't work, it's time for a touch up on the Tormek.

[Rob]

Its worth mentioning that I use Global knives and my steel in the kitchen seemed to work until a few months past when I noticed it had folded the edge over and caused it to crumble.  I Tormek'd it back to good as new and it was great again and was given a ceramic "steel" as a Christmas present in 2014.  The difference is amazing.  Now at Feb 2016 I've never had to re grind it and the ceramic with literally 3 strokes on each side brings it back to slicing tomatoes with that delightful non squash that connotes a razor edge.

I thoroughly recommend ceramic's now.

[Ken S]

Another vote for the creams "steel".

Herman, have you tried using one of the ceramics? I used a metal file type steel for years. Steve gave me a ceramic, and the steel steel has been in a drawer ever since.

Ken

[Matfarsan]

Thanks för the welcome and the help.
Maybe I will do fine with the Tormek and the SP-650 and in the kitchen an IKEA Flaksa ceramic sharpener and a Fällkniven DC4 to sharpen my kitchen knifes?

[Rob]

I seriously doubt anything will blunt in your household with that veritable "arsenal"