Paper cutter blades

[Papallama]

I've added a Tormek to my sharpening business about a month and a half ago and still in the learning curve.  My question is what would be the best way to sharpen long paper cutter blades?  In the past I have used the belt to get a decent edge again but it doesn't do the bevel any good.  Some that have bad nicks I would like to follow or restablish the bevel bringing it back to as close as original as possible.  Any thoughts would be appreciated, I love the machine and I'm old school machinist so it's is a joy to use.

[jeffs55]

First thoughts from my world are that if you cannot freehand that curved blade then it cannot be done on the Tormek. Noway the blade on my paper cutter is going to fit into a Tormek jig. Good luck.

[Rob]

I seem to recall a debate on paper cutters here a long time ago.  Didn't we conclude it couldn't be done in the end?

[Ken S]

Welcome, James.

We can always use an "old school machinist" on this forum.  I have not sharpened a paper cutter cutter blade with my Tormek, however, I am not convinced that it cannot be done.

I would start with the flat platform jig.  I believe it is called the Torlock (after the patented locking mechanism).  I have two of them.  One I cut in half as a prototype for a small knife sharpening jig.  (The narrower profile allowed the width to match the width of the stone so that small blades could be sharpened all the way up to the heel.) I have since found a better way to do this (a suggestion from Jeff Farris).

You might find it helpful to modify the platform by adding a pin or two.  The blade would rest against the pin(s) for more control.  Woodworking router tables (and shapers) use these starting pins to help the operator approach the cutter with good control.

My paper cutter is not yet unpacked from moving, so I am seeing this with my mind's eye instead of in my fingers.  I'm not sure if the platform should be set rising of declining against the stone.  A moment's thought holding it next to your Tormek will decide it for you.  Try to keep the flat face of the blade against the platform.

I would use something soft for the pin(s)-- brass or even wood.  Something like a brass version of machinist's buttons for set up would fit the bill.  They could be removed to allow the platform to be used for other purposes.

I hope this helps.  Good luck and do keep us posted.

Ken

[Rhino]

We had a debate a long time ago.  I think it was agreed that the paper cutter customer is a picky customer so you better do a good job or not do it at all.  People use paper cutters to cut photos, greeting cards etc and a small nick, which is tolerable in most applications, just would not be acceptable on the edge of a wedding photo.

I would say it would depend on the intended use of the paper cutter.  A small amateur club, maybe OK.  Someone trimming photos, no.

I actually trim paper myself a lot and find that a rotary trimmer is much better.  But that is getting off topic.

[Rob]

I do too...very handy tool indeed :-)

[Ken S]

Jeff,
I recall the earlier conversation about paper cutters.  Speaking for myself, I do not feel I have the skill at present to sharpen paper cutter blades.  And, Tormek does not make a specific jig for that application.  However, that is not the same as saying that it cannot be done.

I have a very healthy regard for the skills and creativity of "old school machinists". I have also personally experienced the difference in control and safety a starting pin can make with a router table. 

Several years ago, we might have decided that small knife blades and drill bits were beyond the scope of the Tormek, however, the knowledge frontiers have been pushed back. I think it is possible to do the same with paper cutter blades.

I have used a Rota-Trim cutter for over thirty years.  Most of the use was in my photographic darkroom.  It has performed very well.  I have also seen some very high quality, and equally expensive guillotine trimmers, which, I suspect, would perform better with thicker materials. (Ansel Adams used one.) I never needed one, as I cut my mats on a C&H cutter.

I believe the time has come to revive the conversation about paper cutter blades.

Ken

[Papallama]

Presently I am working on a jig, pretty rough draft at this point, that will slide on the adjusting rail.  Actually I am looking at having the blade run parallel to the stone and the jig to slide on the rail so I can use the entire surface and not groove.  I looked at using the side of the stone but with no way of jigging or keeping the angle accurate I '86' that idea out of the box.  By running parallel the stone will only contact with a small area of the blade at a time making it easier to control, and running against the rotation will speed material removal for reshaping, regrading the stone for a fine finish and moving with the direction of rotation should help finish out the blade. Thats about all I got right now, thanks for the input everyone.