Very New Owner With Accessory & Jig Identification Questions

[PGB1]

Hello Folks!
I am the new (and proud) owner of a previously owned Tormek SuperGrind 2000. It is an older style, wiht the squared off cabinet & without the horizontal base for the Universal Support & no serial number. All the information I can find puts this machine at between 1986 & 2001.

The device came with many accessories, each of which the previous owner said were important jigs and parts. I have studied everything I can find for the last few weeks and am still stumped about some of the items. If you all don't mind helping me identify some of them, I will be very grateful. I am hesitant to try out my new Tormek until I know for sure what's what. The Tormek Grinding Handbook was a great first step toward learning.

Now The Mysteries...
In the group photo, there is a letter after each mystery tool. I also have posted photos of the individual items (I hope they posted OK).

Item E- This brass rod tapers at one end. It measures 12mm diameter & 120mm long. To me, it looks like a truing tool for grinding
     stones, but without the diamond. (Just a guess)

Item F- I don't know what this bracket is, but the owner made sure it was in the box of accessories.
   To me, it looks like a fire extinguisher wall bracket.
   I found nothing close on Tormek or SharpToolsUSA sites. (But I did find lots & lots of new jigs & accessories to buy...)

Item G- A steel rod. It is 1/4" diameter and 6" long. I have doubts it belongs to the Tormek System, as it is not metric size. But, the prior
      owner grabbed it and told me not to forget this part. That leads me to believe it is part of a jig. Again, a guess

Item H- Unknown Hex Key ("Allen") wrench. 1/4" Again, doubtful it belongs here, as it is not metric

Item I- Unknown bracket with two thumb screws. I am totally stumped by this one. It says "Tormek" on it. The
      thumb screws are 6mm threaded

Item J- To me, it looks similar to the SVS-032 Short Tool Holder, but it only has one flange. Could it be an early style of this jig?

Item K- My only supposition is that this is a predecessor to the Knife Jig #SVM-45. The handle does not adjust, it is fixed in position

Item L- I have absolutely no idea what this jig is. A wild guess is that it could be a universal type support by a clone manufacturer???

I sure want to thank you for all of your help identifying these accessories. I also want to say this discussion board it amazing. I not only find the amount & quality of information to be astounding, the people are just, plain nice to each other. That's refreshing to see!

Enjoy Today!
Paul

[Jeff Farris]

Item "I" is the stop mechanism for the old style truing tool (ADV-50D).  The cutter is missing or you didn't photograph it. 

Item "K" is the original design SVM-45 knife jig. The stop (what you called a "handle") does adjust, it's just stiff.

Item "J" is an SVS-40, predecessor to the SVS-32 and a fine tool that you should treasure. It does a couple things the SVS-32 won't, but the newer design handles short tools better. The SVS-40 is a fantastic jig for carving tools in that is does not have the travel limits that the SVS-32 does.

You've got a knob missing from your scissors jig, but you can share the one from your Torlock Tool Rest (SVD-110 with the box).

"L" looks like a part from an Incra Jig. Don't think it has anything to do with a Tormek.

I'm clueless on E, F, G, H, M, and N

[jeffs55]

What does the box say on item "N"? Could it be the polishing compound for your leather honing wheel? Those other items are just something the previous owner used in conjunction with something else I suppose. I am sure you will enjoy your Tormek.

[PGB1]

Thank You Jeffs55 and Jeff Farris for your help!

To be honest, i wasn't necessarily looking for a Tormek System when I bought this. I wanted one machine which could help me achieve proper sharpening of my wood and metal working tooling. One look at this tool sold me. Actually having a gear box to slow the RPM is genius.

I spent a long time searching for clues to what my accessories are (old classified ads for machines helped to a certain extent). The bonus was that I learned a lot about the Tormek system and what accessories are available.

To be honest, I am not a prolific woodworker, but finally have some time to learn. My primary stumbling block to woodworking has always been proper sharpening of tools. Like the accountant's pencil, if one is not working with a sharp tool, the results will be poor. I also intend to use this machine to give my machine lathe tooling the polished-sharp cutting tips they deserve.

For my Item I, the cutter was not included in the sale. Had I been thinking, I would have inquired about it. I'll need to purchase a truing tool, perhaps TT-50, when funds allow. (Code for "Eventually...")

I think I'll soak the SVM-45 (Item K) shaft's threads in penetrating oil to try to free it. It is certainly stuck & I don't want to torque too hard with a strap wrench.

Thank you Jeff for bringing to my attention the value of the Item J, SVS-40.
Immediately upon reading what you wrote, I picked it up and studied it with a 3/8" HSS machine tool lathe bit in my other hand. This simple device will allow me to control the tool while grinding. Yours was an excellent idea to treasure it.

For Item L, I studied the Incra catalog a bit. Even though I didn't see this particular item, I saw many of this exact color. You gave me a good direction to look in. There is an Incra dealer nearby. Perhaps I'll take it there & see if they recognize it.

For my Items E, F, G & H- Since you guys don't recognize them, I think I'm safe in assuming they have nothing to do with the Tormek System.

I should have mentioned (and forgot to) that I knew Items M & N.
Item M is a slipstone 1,000 grit.
Item N is "Micro Fine Honing Compound #12680" by Formax. The color doesn't match that of what is on the honing wheel, but the wheel may
    simply be dirty.

This tool was not well cared for & the leather honing  wheel has grit I can feel with my hands.

Is it possible to clean off that leather wheel & start fresh, or will I damage it by cleaning?

So far, I have not used the Tormek, preferring to wait until I am comfortable with its proper use and accessories. You both helped me get a giant step in the right direction. Their book is excellent. I've read & re-read it several times.

I have, however, turned this tool on. I am amazed at how smoothly the unit operates. A dial indicator showed almost zero run-out. No wonder people stick by these machines.

Thanks Again for all of your help Jeff & Jeff.
I hope your day is great!
Paul

[jeffs55]

As far as cleaning goes here is my opinion that is not based on actually doing this. I would first try to take a wire bristle brush and brush it in hopes or removing any caked on debris. However, the wheel is actually the rough side of a piece of leather and so the stuff caked on it combined with it being scrubbed may remove that roughage. In that case, you might be able to obtain a narrow strip and attach that to the wheel. This would require a fairly accurate measurement so that the two ends meet exactly to eliminate a gap between the two ends. I would measure the circumference of the wheel and then cut my leather to that length. BUT, do not cut the ends at 90 degrees. Instead cut them at 45 degrees or more so that there is a merging of the ends from one to another. This will eliminate the bump that would otherwise occur. If this fails you can always revert to plan B which is buying another honing wheel. Good luck.

[PGB1]

Thanks Jeff!!
I will proceed carefully with cleaning, trying your wheel cleaning ideas.
The plan for jointing the replacement leather rings familiar to my ears. I use scarf joints on the drive belts for the antique cylinder phonographs that I've restored (much smaller size) and for the cone pulley's leather flat belt on my South Bend lathe. You can not have a butt joint on those, as they are in mid air.

I scarfed the tires I made for my band saw & horizontal saw, although a seam on those would not have mattered. (Obsolete sizes). Those are compound angles- 30 degrees left and a long scarf where they overlap. I'm such a cheapskate, I braze up my own (obsolete sizes) saw blades for those, using lapped scarf joints.

So basically, since you suggested a new leather strop if things don't clean up well, I'm brave enough to start the restoration process! (Getting anxious to start sharpening!)

This particular Tormek was not well cared for. I was surprised when I arrived at the man's tool sale & saw the giant pile of hand-held power tools on the floor. There were drills, biscuit tools, saws of all sorts and more. Each stationary tool was rusted quite heavily. He wanted top dollar for his tools, too. Of course, the Tormek is quite dirty, was filled with animal nests and some steel parts are well rusted. (Yet, he said he was a cabinet maker.) On the plus side, I got the system rather inexpensively. (I think)

Thanks again for your good ideas and the Jump Start in the right direction!
Paul

[Ken S]

Paul,

Welcome to the forum. Just a gut feeling:  I would purchase a tube of Tormek honing compound and have a go with a piece of steel or a non prime tool.  That might get some or most of the crud off the leather wheel.  Don't be tight with the compound.  If, by chance, this doesn't work after several tries, you aren't out anything.  If it did work, you have saved the sixty bucks for a new wheel.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

Start the machine and see if the grindstone wobbles or if the bearings on the main shaft need grease.

[PGB1]

Hi Ken, Herman & Everyone,

Thanks for the good cleaning tip, Ken.
I have an old, untrue tapered parallel bar that has a fairly sharp edge. (Similar to a dull knife). What the heck, might as well try.
The hone leather sure is a gritty mess.

I followed your suggestion, Herman, & found that the grinding stone does, indeed, wobble.

If I remove both wheels and the spindle with its driven-wheel, leaving only the drive shaft from the gear box, I have no wobble of that shaft. Actually, I measured it with a dial indicator & found the total indicated runout was less than 0.002". I was amazed!

Next, I tested with the shaft for the wheels back on, but no stone nor honing wheel. (Trying to verify if it was the stone or the shaft)
The driven wheel on the shaft has no appreciable runout, so I must conclude that the bearings are OK & the wobble is at the stone or its mounting.

What would be your next step to correct this wobble?

I checked for lubrication on the nylon flanged bearings. They have caked on black lube. It's time for a clean up & re-lube. I've read several postings here discussing the lubricant.

Unless I missed something in a posting, I probably will go with Syncro Super Lube. It's not harmful to nylon. I use it on lots of stuff and am pleased with it.

Today is the first time I've 'bonded' with the tool.
After looking around underneath, job one is going to have to be removal of the motor and de-rusting of the metal parts. In lieu of buying the new, stainless steel EzLock spindle, for now I'll coat the steel parts with wool wax to keep rust at bay until economics allow a new shaft.

So, what do you guys think my next step should be after cleaning & lubing?

Also, the motor's gear box shaft is rusty where it contacts the rubber on the driven wheel. Is it supposed to have a sleeve of some sort on it? Right now, it is steel against the rubber tire on the wheel. I'll, of course, remove the rust.

Thans Much!
Paul

[jeffs55]

There is no sleeve, leave the rust, it will grip better and only you will know it is there. It will be worn away or at least down through use. I am kidding about leaving it but not about the better grip. If Tormek wanted it rusty, they would have shipped it that way. Clean it the best way you can and let it ride. It is a friction drive so the more pressure you get up to some point  below seizure of course is better. And then again, the Tormek folks have designed that point in by allowing for the weight of the motor. I too, am a real newbie with this and bought my two for sharpening straight edge tools  or knives with some curvature. Do not be tempted to buy one of the ultra fine Japanese stones of 4000 grit or finer. They are just short of useless in application.

[PGB1]

Thanks Jeff!
Good point about the grip. I'll clean the rust & not succumb to the big temptation of making it bright & shinny on the lathe. The goal will be a finish that's dull enough to grip, but not so dull as to wear away at the driven wheel's tire. (Like if it was knurled).

Thanks for the tip about the ultra fine Japanese stones.  I can't say for sure, but it seems like 4000 grit is maybe as smooth as newspaper. The finest I ever use is 2200 and I have to look at it to see which side is the cutting side. For me, the 1000 & the honing wheel should suffice.  (Right now, my spare cash will be going into 1) A truing tool of some sort 2) The XB-100 Horizontal Base and eventually some jigs I can't resist.

I've really been enjoying bringing this tool up to trim. Yesterday's task, after removing the motor shaft, was to get all the water out of the switch. Today, I will de-rust the shaft & the motor housing. Tomorrow???
Tormek certainly designed this too to be very easy to service. I'm impressed!

Thanks Again for your help & Enjoy Today!
Paul

[Herman Trivilino]

Paul, if the wobble is up and down the grindstone needs truing.  If it's side-to-side try rotating the mounting washer.

In my experience (which was a total of one grindstone) the side-to-side wobble was due to a bent main shaft.

IIRC a small bit of side-to-side wobble is not a serious problem.

[PGB1]

Thanks, Herman!

The wobble I noticed was side to side. It was like as if one were to place a penny under the edge of a phonograph record- but only this wheel is vertical.
After reading your message, I did rotate the washer & that wobble cleared up very nicely. Took a few tries to get it in just the right position. Actually, then I did the same thing on my bench grinder. Much simpler that the paper shims I've always shoved in.

Now the up & down wobble is very noticeable. I guess I need to get some sort of truing tool. I'm not sure if the Tormek tool is in the budget right now, so I may get a cheapie for the interim. Eventually, I'd like to have the Tormek Truing Tool. It looks as though it is designed to NOT allow me to mess up my wheel.

Thanks Again for the great ideas & Enjoy Today!
Paul

[Herman Trivilino]

Now the up & down wobble is very noticeable. I guess I need to get some sort of truing tool.

You really do need to keep the wheel true.  If out of round even a small amount what happens is as you grind the low spots get even lower, making the problem worse.  The grindstone should be trued at the first sign that it's out of round.

I still have the older Tormek truing tool and it works just fine.

[PGB1]

Thanks  Herman!
I'll most certainly get something to true the wheel before I start sharpening. I'd hate to damage it.
I have read many favorable comments about that stone. I really like being able to change the grade with a simple tool. Genius, indeed!