the learning curve.

[Herman Trivilino]

Keeping the HK-50 gap only sufficient to clear the rotating stone permits a water bubble nth below and above the HK-50. Slowly move the Blade across the rotating stone while maintaining a light pressure on the blade while in contact with the rotating stone.

Would you say, then, that you apply more force pushing the blade into the grindstone than you do pushing the blade towards the platform?  You are resting the blade lightly on the platform and are using it only as a guide?

I've been firmly pushing the blade against the platform using brute force and you're applying elegant pressure!

[courierdog]

Herman:
Applying more force down onto the HK-50 was where I started and soon found that that is a waste of effort.
While sufficient force is required to maintain the blade on the HK-50 it is a delicate balance of downward force and force pushing the blade into the rotating wheel.
What I have discovered is, a delicate touch is required which maintains a balance between sharpening force (Into The Wheel) and downward force to maintain the blade in mechanical and supportive contact with the HK-50.
The learned force required is very similar to the pressure learned using the flat stones and the angle guide. Again this is a delicate balance of holding and sharpening force at the point of contact.
What I have come to appreciate is the sharpening sound (Flat or Rotating) is very similar on each blade (Note the sound of each blade has its own characteristic sound) Mastering the Tormek using the HK-50 while applying these new found techniques is more related  than using the Tormek Knife Sharpening Jig. I almost gave up and sold the Tormek before reading about your HK-50.
While it took me almost an entire week to grind down the profile into the 1/8 inch thick by 2 inch wide Stainless Steel plate I now consider every minute a labour of love as the results have for keen nothing less than spectacular.
I have much work to do to remove the numerous gouges I placed in some blades while attempting to use the Tormek Knife sharpening jigs.
Try as I might, watched several people using the Tormek Knife jigs, achieved wondrous results, what I managed was very poor to say the least.
I suggest watching the video  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIw5ChGOADE several time and as he insists learn to hear the blade. It took me months of practice using his methods to appreciate what he is attempting to teach.
These techniques transfer quite well to the HK-50 and the Tormek.
The HK-50 has a very, very fine angle of address, which conforms to sharpening angles required by the Japanese knives.
The leading edge HK-50 now has a very feathered looking edge but allows the following:
1. Water bubble under the HK-50
2. Water bubble on the resting surface of the HK-50
3. Ground profile has what appears to be a very close tolerance between the Wheel and the HK-50 jig
4. The rigidity of the HK-50 even at the feathered edge is sufficient to the task and exhibits no noticeable deflection during the sharpening process.

[Herman Trivilino]

Thanks, Courierdog, those are some good tips.  It would be so very nice if you could post a video.  A thousands words, as they say ...

Do you have your stainless steel platform attached to the base of the scissors jig?

[courierdog]

Herman:
At this point I am still using small C Clamps to secure the HK-50 to the platform.
I have just returned from our vacation which had us out of country during the month of June.
Now I have been scheduled for Carpal Tunnel Surgery so my continued sharpening progress has been reduced.
Most of my effort for the next month or two will be on paper only.
This forum has really encouraged me and provided me with the ideas to follow through and actually sharpen my knives and along the way I also have managed to sharpen my metal lathe tool bits.
I am now working on a stand for the Tormek which is the right height to permit excellent visibility while sharpening and a platform which will collect all or most of the splash water.
Must have wheels to allow the stand to me moved around and wheel lock to secure it in place.
I have an old Model 15 teleprinter stand which is solid and I can fabricate a plywood base and an aluminum drip tray to recycle all the excess water.
The one thing I have learned is the splash foot print is mush larger than originally thought. and the entire work surface  needs to be easy to clean up if there is to be peace in the household, and the surrounding area is not covered in the sharpening splash residue.
The Sharpening Stones (Wheels) need to have a natural and convenient storage location that encourages and easy exchange as the different grit requirement dictates.
Do you have any thought on this subject.

[Herman Trivilino]

Herman:
At this point I am still using small C Clamps to secure the HK-50 to the platform.

To the base of the scissors jig?

The Sharpening Stones (Wheels) need to have a natural and convenient storage location that encourages and easy exchange as the different grit requirement dictates.
Do you have any thought on this subject.

Here is the Cadillac of solutions to stone storage:

http://tormek.com/international/en/accessories/sharpening-station/ts-740-sharpening-station/

Watch the video.  Although the sharpening station itself is not what you're looking for, perhaps you can steal the grindstone storage scheme and adapt it to your station.

Good luck with the surgery.

[courierdog]

Herman:
Yes it is the Scissor Jig base I use.
I have looked at the very nice Sharpening Station, which has ample storage for the Tormek Accessories.
Wheel storage, I am not totally convinced on their approach, I have noticed a stone hold a tremendous amount of water.
I do not want to set the stones down nor do I want to stand the stones on their edge.
Hanging the stones, in the Tormek manner just does not feel right. Do not get me wrong, I think the safest means of storing the stone is similar, or should be, to the method used to secure the stone to the machine.
I am looking around the current set up and the splash area is larger than the Tormek Station base, thus I will start with a top surface of 24 x 24 inches, for a start.

[Herman Trivilino]

I don't use more than one grindstone so it's not an issue for me, but it seems the method of hanging it on a pin is as equivalent to the way it's mounted as you can get.

I also don't use the Rotating Base, but I do believe it's designed to be within the spill zone.  In other words, you would set the rotating base inside your spill tray and then set the Tormek on top.

My Tormek work station is a scrap sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, 22 inches deep and 36 inches wide.  A scrap piece of vinyl floor is glued on top of that, and the sides are trimmed out with some 1 inch by 1/4 inch strips of pressure treated pine (also scraps).  The strips stand about 1/4 inch proud of the vinyl surface and serve as spill containment, although spill rarely reach it.

I used to rest it on top of my table saw but more recently attached it to a 2 by 6 ledger strip screwed to the garage wall, with two legs made of 2 by 2 that are not vertical but attached to the wall below the ledger strip.  An additional 2 by 2 strip is attached to the underside near the front for stiffness.

[courierdog]

Herman:
Thanks for your input. Your comment of 3/4 inch plywood is exactly what I intend to use. I do not intend to use the Rotating Base either, as I intend to build the Stand on a wheeled base with lock downs. Good point on the vinyl flooring as it does provide a non slip surface. I am also thinking of building the top with an adjustable platform so I can control the run off of the splash water into a drain which can be dumped or recycled as required.
I have found the use of the three stones a huge benefit. I am able to replicate the Japanese knife sharpening technique of at least 3 stone grits and provides a Shaping (remove dents and gouges, establish Working Edge Bevel) Sharpening and Polishing functions.
I will let you know how my progress goes and if there is a way I can forward photos to you let me know and I will attempt to comply.

[Ken S]

My second T7 came with a "free" rotating base.  I have actually found it useful. It does get wet in use.  Not soaking wet, but wet.  I lift off the Tormek at the end of the session and dry off everything.  I also religiously empty and clean out the water tray after each session.i just thought of it; I think a towel placed under the Tormek (with or without rotating base) would catch the water.  Just dry out the towel between sessions.  That should solve any slippage issues with the floor.

Having a built in "lazy susan" type of arrangement would be nice, but subject to rusting.  The rotating base is heavy plastic.  It has stops at ninety degrees. it works well.

The angle brackets to the wall would be very solid. Nice idea. My reincarnated child's table top is a bit shaky.

When designing a table, I would definitely consider task lighting.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

I have one of those large magnifiers with a light mounted just above my Tormek.  And an under-cabinet light, also mounted above.  Plenty of light is necessary and the magnifier is handy, too.

The drain is an interesting idea.  I will keep my eye out for an old sink that could be salvaged and used for this purpose.  One could place the rotating base over the drain and a bucket on the floor underneath to catch the water.

[courierdog]

Herman:
I agree on the light issue. In my shot I have 3 T5 Lights, the Electrician asked if I knew what I was doing as these are really bright.
The magnifier is also a good idea.
I am thinking along the idea of a shaped tray base where the slash water ends up in a hose drain to something like a 2 Litre  milk bottle, as it has a handle.
My current thoughts on lights are either the T5 Fluorescence or the new LED lights as a spot light up close and personal style.

[Herman Trivilino]

I believe the "high temperature" light of the new LED's would be superb.

[courierdog]

Herman:
My wife just finished a complete rebuild of our Kitchen and ALL of her new lighting is LED.
There is no question the LED lighting is efficient and draws very little power compared to the compact fluorescent or the filament bulbs. The only current down side of the LED's is the purchase price.

[SharpenADullWitt]

One other downside is it is still early technology.  Talked to a friend about the conversion done by his grocery store, bulbs are burning out quite frequently (at least currently a warranty issue), and they are guaranteed five years.  (stores break even point is less then that)

I went for regular bulbs today (bosses request) and looked, LED's are also not sold in a contractor pack/bulk pack yet.

[courierdog]

LED Conversion has another advantage in the shop, heat, currently many use halogen spot lamps which are extremely hot when used up close. I have been using the new LED lamps and the light output is not quite up to the same level however the lamp can be moved closer to the object without experiencing any significant heat build up.
One other interesting fact is the use of LED as illumination for digital microscopes has enabled significant improvement in observations where heat has been a serious issue in the past.
My current shop using T5 fluorescent lamps and LED projector bulbs is brighter and significantly cooler, and draws less than half the previously AC power.