How did I do?

[refugio]

I bought this 2004 on eBay for $421 last week with everything that comes with a T-7 except the handbook/DVD (easy enough to get) and HTK-170 plus SVS-50. The diameter of the stone is 246mm, and the thing sure seems minty:

I've read about the rusty shafts, but this one seems brand new.

Anything I should be checking?

And are there any upgrades you guys would recommend (other than the updated support with micro-adjust)?

[Mike Fairleigh]

Nice steal.  If it were me I'd do the shaft upgrade.  And if you're really going to use it, I recommend the fairly new Tormek turntable.

[refugio]

I can certainly see the shaft upgrade - but the turntable? Really? It actually seems easier to just lift the handle and rotate it - it doesn't weigh very much.

[refugio]

...And if you're really going to use it...

I actually have no idea how much I'm going to use it. I have lots of tools that could be sharpened that I've never gotten around to, but last week my wife handed me a pair of nail clippers and asked if I could sharpen them. Now I'm not going to say that I spent $400+ to sharpen a pair of $10 nail clippers (which apparently don't do well on a Tormek anyway) but that's my story. <smile>

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum.  It looks like you got a good deal.  I have no idea what a THK-170 is.  Would you describe it?

I have the new EZYlock stainless shaft. I originally added on to my first T7, which had the regular shaft, but in stainless.  The new shaft is a real improvement, however, I would not give replacing the shaft top priority at this point.  Empty the water tray when you are finished, and occasionally grease the shaft bearings.  You should get a lot of service out of your shaft.  You can add the new shaft anytime.

The new model of the universal support bar with the micro adjust nut is very convenient.  I would add that when you get the diamond dresser.  The micro adjust nut makes it much easier to dress the wheel.  The diamond dresser and stone grader are really essential.

The RB-180 revolving base is nice, but hardly necessary.  I would place it at a lower priority than the new shaft.

If you have the older square tool jig, be sure to read Jeff's recent post with his PDF on keeping tools square.  Also check out the sharptoolsusa.com demo videos which Jeff did.  They are an excellent quick start guide. Keep a black marker nearby; it's a very useful tool.

Don't be shy about posting questions.  None of us came out of the womb knowing how to use a Tormek.  I would pass on trying to sharpen the nail cilppers.

Ken

[refugio]

Sorry, that was HTK-170 (the "Hand Tool Kit") - the collection I bought came with all of those pieces plus the SVS-50 (and the LA-120, which I forgot to mention).

One thing that helped me compare new and used Tormeks (there were a couple of local ones on Craigslist as well) was to create a spreadsheet with all of the Tormek parts and their prices. It was a bit of a surprise to see that the majority of the value of the new T-7 at $639 (omitting tax and shipping) was in the accessories - the two wheels alone cost $245 together. It made sense that Jeff said that a used 2000 series would be worth $100, since the naked T-7 (which they don't sell!) would be about $200.

So in my spreadsheet, I compared whatever was on offer to a new T-7, deducting for wear on the grinder wheel. It quickly became clear to me that the value was in the accessories - and I think I've even seen a couple of eBay sets of listings where someone got an older batch and sold off all the boxed pieces.

But without a spreadsheet where you can tot up all the bits and their prices (and, more importantly, see what is missing!) it's very difficult to value secondhand grinders.

[Rob]

There's an old saying in the software industry: 

"the value is in the application".  This is also true of the Tormek universe.  The actual electric motor is now a commodity, all the value is in the problem solving extensions that "hang off" the commodity.

People no longer buy a car because it's better than a horse, they buy it because it has an ipod dock and amazing fuel economy, huge space and a massive sun roof etc.......the value proposition evolves with the customers expectations.

It's all perception...all marketing.  Business is about innovation and marketing......everything else is a cost.

[Herman Trivilino]

That's an awesome deal.  Instead of upgrading to the new universal support with micro adjust I just threaded the shaft with a die.

[refugio]

Instead of upgrading to the new universal support with micro adjust I just threaded the shaft with a die.

Was that difficult? Just the common die in a handheld tool or something heavier duty?

[Herman Trivilino]

It's a 12 mm shaft, so just use a regular die and get the right nut to match.  It takes some time so be patient.  Keep it lubricated and use compressed air to blow out the chips.

I used bondo to cement the nut into the center of a plastic bottle cap, filled in the voids outside the nut being careful to keep the inside of the nut clean.  Then I drilled a hole through the center of the plastic cap.

[refugio]

I used bondo to cement the nut into the center of a plastic bottle cap, filled in the voids outside the nut being careful to keep the inside of the nut clean.  Then I drilled a hole through the center of the plastic cap.

Your point being to increase the diameter of the nut, presumably to provide greater control? How about pre-drilling the cap and using something like JB Steel Stick?

[Herman Trivilino]

Your point being to increase the diameter of the nut, presumably to provide greater control? How about pre-drilling the cap and using something like JB Steel Stick?

Correct.  Bondo and JB are basically the same thing, a two-part epoxy filler.  They just use different fillers.  Either will work.  I used bondo because that's what I had.  It's also easier to sand and machine.

[refugio]

Correct.  Bondo and JB are basically the same thing, a two-part epoxy filler.  They just use different fillers.  Either will work.  I used bondo because that's what I had.  It's also easier to sand and machine.

Well how about that - I learned something more new!

Thanks Herman

[Ken S]

Herman's home made threading is certainly clever.  Without meaning any offense to a loyal Texan, it is a fine example of "Yankee ingenuity".  If you already have the threading equipment or access to it, it would be a viable alternative to purchasing a replacement support bar.

If you would need to purchased the thread die and holder, I would suggest just purchasing another support bar.  They aren't al that expensive.  Also, the threads are not the standard threads.  They are a modified acme thread.  The flat surface makes for better contact with the securing screw.

If you do decide to order another bar, I would suggest also ordering an extra micro adjust nut.  I have two nuts on each of my two support bars.  The double nut approach keeps the nut from moving out of adjustment.  That may just be one of my quirks. Several of us, my learned friend from Texan included, are tinkerers with the Tormek.  (Be sure to read about Herman's HK-50 knife jig.) Good, bad or otherwise, that is what I do.  I'm sure others have different opinions.

Keep us posted;

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

Actually, Ken, I am a Yankee.  Born and raised near the Adirondack Mountains of Upstate New York.

I tell people I'm not from Texas, but I did get here as soon as I could.