How long to run the grindstone to absorb enough water

[jekoors]

I just purchased a new T7.  Assuming I keep the water tray full and the grindstone running, how long does it typically take for the grindstone to become completely saturated and ready for use?

As an option can I keep the grindstone submersed in water when not in use, then mount on the tormek then start using right away?

Thanks in advance for any help

John

[Mike Fairleigh]

My stone takes about 20 seconds to be ready for use, starting from dry.  You do have to add water a couple of times as you get going, because it absorbs a LOT of it.

You don't want to leave the stone sitting in water while not in use.  It can soften the binder, leading to uneven wear.

[Herman Trivilino]

I just purchased a new T7.  Assuming I keep the water tray full and the grindstone running, how long does it typically take for the grindstone to become completely saturated and ready for use?

You don't have to wait for it to be saturated.  Wait a few seconds for it to absorb some of the water because you'll have to add more water if you started out with a dry grindstone.   As long as the surface is wet you're good to go.

Congratulations on your purchase. 

[Dakotapix]

My stone takes about 20 seconds to be ready for use, starting from dry.  You do have to add water a couple of times as you get going, because it absorbs a LOT of it.

You don't want to leave the stone sitting in water while not in use.  It can soften the binder, leading to uneven wear.

I've been meaning to ask if there is a problem leaving water in the tray if you drop it down to a position where the grind stone is not submerged in water. It is what I've been doing and seems in line with what Jeff shows in his videos.

[Rob]

Aso leaving it in water when not in use can lead to rusting of the internal components

[Ken S]

Very good question, John.  Already well answered.  Welcome to the forum; I trust you will enjoy using your new Tormek.

You seem to come from a water stone background (as many of us here).  Allowing the wheel to absorb water will soon become second nature.  I just keep a plastic juice bottle nearby and add when the water stops flowing over the grindstone.  I keep an old towel or paper towels nearby.  There is often a small amount of slippage; usually very small.

Dakotapix, I suppose you could leave the full tray below the stone.  For longer intervals, I just feel better starting with clean water.  That may be mostly in my head.

John, if you have not already found them, Jeff Farris' demo videos www.sharptoolsusa.com are the best "quickstart guide" I have found.

Do post your questions and thoughts. I have found the search function on this forum frustrating.  It's easier, and usually more productive just to post a question.

Ken

[Rob]

My routine is if the water is mostly clean I drop the tray so the stone is not in any contact. That way you cant do any water related damage to any of the components.  If the tray is really full either metal swarf or sloughed off ceramic from the stone, I empty and clean. Bottom line is this:

You don't want to be sharpening if each revolution introduces waterborne particles onto the rotating wheel as that clogs the process and reduces cutting.  So clean the water whenever it needs it.  Equally don't leave the water in contact with the components when not in use.

[Ken S]

Rob, I think the issue of rust with internal components (mostly the shaft) was more of an issue before the shafts were made of stainless steel.  (Storing the wheel dry is still a good practice.)

Ken

[Rob]

I appreciate the shaft before the stainless steel was mostly at risk and in fact that replacement will solve that problem. 

Its more of a belt and braces attitude in general I think.  Basic rule of thumb...don't leave metal and water in contact.

I actually haven't upgraded to the eazylock nut and the ss shaft so it does still apply to me :-)

[Herman Trivilino]

Even with the stainless steel main shaft you run the risk of a chemical reaction between the metal parts and the wet grindstone.