inspired by Ionut and Herman

[Ken S]

Back during the time period when Ionut made his small knife blade jig, I posted a couple ideas.  One was for a wooden jig, similar to Ionut's.  The other was essentially sawing an SVD-110 in half.  That would allow a small blade to be held on either side of the wheel, as the table would be about the same width as the wheel.

I purchased a second SVD-110 at the time, and never got around to finish the jig. 

Herman inspired me with his jig.

this afternoon I got out the SVD-110s.  one had two holes for holding screws.  I measured off a line about 1 7/8" from one side and headed toward the bandsaw.  My 1/2" 3 tpi blade made short work of the cut through the extruded aluminum.  Surprisingly, the cut was almost as smooth as the factory cut.

I knew I would need to turn the jig around to get close enough to the wheel.  I had purchased a regular 6mm short bolt to substitute for the Tormek knob.

Alas, the bolt was still too long.  I ground down the bolt on the belt grinder.  Still too long.  I filed down the threaded surface on the jig.  Still too long.  At this point I am unable to get close enough for a 20 degree bevel.

I have not given up.  I will attach something, either wood or metal on top of the jig.  It will work in time.  For now, I have an SVD-110, an SVD-70 and an SVD-45.  (wow!)

still plugging along.....

Ken

[Jeff Farris]

Ken,

You might drill and tap offset from the center. That should get you closer.

[Ken S]

Good thought, Jeff.  However, with the short version there is no overhang on either side.

Ken

[Jeff Farris]

Don't cut the mounting area, just the table area. Too late for that advice?

[jeffs55]

You used a wood cutting blade on the metal and it came out fine? THREE tpi on metal? I am a little surprised it didn't get snatched out of whatever was holding it, or just plain snapped into jagged pieces.

[Jeff Farris]

It's aluminum, Jeff. Wood cutting blades work on it just fine.

[Ken S]

Jeff, your suggestion to just cut the table area and not the mounting area is just the ticket!  It's too late for one of my SVD-110s, but I am looking at the other one and the bandsaw!. 

It would work better than my configuration, as it utilizes the longer part of the table.  It works fine with the standard Tormek plastic head bolt.  That also makes it very easy to adjust. place or remove.

Good job, Jeff.

Ken

ps The aluminum was easy to cut with the bandsaw blade.

[Ken S]

My Yankee thrift got the better of me.  I decided to hold off cutting down my second SVD-110 until I actually have a need for a small knife jig.  For those who would like to make one:

Start with an SVD-110 jig.

With the jig in the USB and the long part of the table facing the wheel, note the location of the tightening knob.  Mine is on the left (toward the inside).  I assume all are this way.

I used my bandsaw with a 1/2" blade with 3 teeth per inch. 

Mark a line along the upside down jig along the edge near the tapped knob hole.  The line should be about 1/2" (12mm for Rob)

Laying the jig flat on the bandsaw table, cut off the half inch.  This extra step positions the knob further from the wheel.

Now, from the other edge of the table, mark a line a little less than two inches.  This part will be the remaining part of the table, and it should not protrude from either side of the grinding wheel.

On the remaining part of the table, cut off the part of the Torlock which would be between the USB and the wheel.  This is necessary to get the table angle low enough for the bevel.

When you are done, your jig will have the Torlock part and locking knob to the left of the wheel and the table just shy of the width of the wheel.  This will allow you to position small blades on either side of the wheel for double bevel sharpening without moving the jig.

Honestly, I don't think this jig will function any better then either Ionut or Herman's jigs.  It started out as just an alternate way to arrive at the same place.  It does look more authentically Tormek (for what that's worth).

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

For the cost of piece of scrap metal you can modify the base of the scissors jig to accept it, and not sacrifice the jig in the bargain.

I'm thinking of making a video of how to do it.  I am so impressed with this jig.  I haven't been this excited about sharpening since I first got my Tormek!

[Elden]

That's great Herman and Ken. Herman, have you ever been a salesman? You are doing a good job of it!

[Elden]

Removed. Not sure how that got duplicated.

[Herman Trivilino]

That's great Herman and Ken. Herman, have you ever been a salesman? You are doing a good job of it!

No, never.  I do sell ideas, but not for money. 

[Rob]

seriously guys you absolutely SHOULD make a video....great instruction....as we've been saying all along, moving images give the most assistance

[Ken S]

Herman is correct.  His jig is much more practical than the one I imagined.  I was letting my mind wander as to how one of the existing Tormek jigs might be adapted.

With some practice, either Ionut or Herman's jigs might be a nice set up for someone sharpening knives at a fair.  The flat table would be much faster than using the regular Tormek knife jig.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

The next step in development would be to experiment with different platform lengths. I'm going to finish this discussion back in the thread where I'm discussing the development of this jig.

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1560.new#new