Please replace SP-650 with a diamond t-bar.

[trevarthan]

I spent 1k on the T-7 magnum kit (T-7 with wood turning and edge tool jigs). I was really disturbed when the wheel glazed within a few sharpenings and the SP-650 did nothing to restore the surface to useful cutting capacity. I tried the diamond truing tool that comes with the T-7 and noticed that it does an excellent job of resurfacing the wheel. However, it's a little impractical. While extremely accurate, it's very slow to use.

Luckily, I read on a woodworking forum that those diamond t-bar tools that come with regular dry grinders work great instead of the SP-650. I tried one I had laying around, and sure enough, a quick touch is all that is necessary to unglaze the wheel.

Please include a diamond t-bar tool with the T-7 in the future. Also, please include a mention of this issue in the documentation. I almost gave up on my T-7 before I tried the t-bar. I wouldn't want that to happen to someone else.

[Herman Trivilino]

Trevarthan, did you try pressing on the wheel with the corner of the stone grader.  Like this ...

[Herman Trivilino]

Luckily, I read on a woodworking forum that those diamond t-bar tools that come with regular dry grinders work great

You guys are giving me too many ideas.  I just purchased one of these from amazon dot com.  Had to use up that gift certificate and my cash back bonus.

[Rob]

Can you post the model pls I'd like to try one of those. Herman will you also post back after you've tried it. That does sound like a really good idea doesn't it

[Mike Fairleigh]

The problem with any handheld truing tool is that it will not result in a wheel surface that is exactly parallel to the universal support.

[Herman Trivilino]

Can you post the model pls I'd like to try one of those.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZP7BAY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's the Diamond T-bar Wheel Dresser Lapidary Tool.  It has a two-inch width.

[Herman Trivilino]

The problem with any handheld truing tool is that it will not result in a wheel surface that is exactly parallel to the universal support.

Mike, what you say is true.  (Sorry, I just couldn't resist the pun.)

What I have in mind for it is a tool that sort of comes between the Tormel truing tool and the rough side of the stone grader.  In other words, to deglaze the surface of the grindstone.

I realize that it won't true the grindstone.  But if I position the universal support just a a millimeter or two above the surface of the grindstone, and then use it as a support for the diamond t-bar, I will be able to keep it true.  Well, as true as it already is.

It may also help smooth a freshly-trued grindstone.

If nothing else I'll at least have it available for dressing the wheels in my dry grinder.

[Elden]

"Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."

Looks like that would be the ticket for the bench grinder.  I was going to see how much it cost, But you must have bought the last one.

[tonylumps]

Just be careful your Grindstone will shrink pretty fast with that diamond gradder.

[Herman Trivilino]

"Currently unavailable.
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."

Looks like that would be the ticket for the bench grinder.  I was going to see how much it cost, But you must have bought the last one.

It was $25.99 and when I bought it they did say it was the last one available.  I thought that was just advertising hype, but I guess it was true!

[Herman Trivilino]

Just be careful your Grindstone will shrink pretty fast with that diamond gradder.

It'll barely touch the grindstone, Tony, and only on those rare occasions when it's needed.

[Mike Fairleigh]

Those things are available all over the place.  I believe my local Lowe's has them.

Herman, I agree it would be interesting to see if it's useful as something sort of in between a "full truing" and just a "re-grading."  I would only caution future newbies to the board that these $15-20 "truing tools" are not a substitute for the truing tool that comes with your Tormek.

[Rob]

What peaked my interest is its potential for deglazing the stone when grinding planar blades. Anything that can assist in reactivating the stone quickly during that is welcome. Particularly without having to go as far as trueing every few minutes

[Ken S]

The T bar could probably be held in the small tool holder.  With care, it might give a reasonable parallel surface.

What surprises me is that I don't recall seeing prior posts with this problem.  If the problem was indeed Tormek related, I would expect it to manifest itself with a number of users.

Have you sharpened these turning tools before using other methods?  Related, do you know another turner who would sharpen them with either another Tormek or a dry grinder?  If the problem is in the steel of your turning tools, I would expect the trouble to follow.

The other possibility which comes to mind is how much pressure you are putting on the tool against the wheel.  My turning tools are stored away, however, I have not noticed this glazing with carbon chisels, plane blades or high speed drill bits.

A late thought, what kind of steel are your turning tools? Today's powder technology is producing some exotic steel, which may or may not play nicely with the SG Tormek wheel.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Rob]

Just to be clear about a stone that's glazed. What I mean by that is it becomes so fine that it no longer cuts.  It's even finer than the surface after an effective grading with the 1000 stone.

It had never happened to me until I sharpened my jointer knives. The combination of lots of surface area of bevel and high speed steel simply wore down the sharp points on the abrasive in the stone till it was just scraping the metal and not removing anything.

Prior to that I had sharpened all of the usual things including, plane irons, chisels, knives, axes and an array of turning tools which are also HSS. No problems with the stone.

The jointer knives were the first tool that significantly "failed" to sharpen without constant attention to redressing the stone. I've had no problems achieving that with the grader but you need to lean on it, really apply it to the wheel....time and pressure at the risk of repeating information yet again!

If a diamond dressing tool is a more effective means of reactivating the stone in between trues then I'm all ears! 

Ill also venture one "goof proof" tip on verifying the stone is still cutting....listen.  Particularly listen to the sound it makes while grinding directly after truing and then again a few minutes in. As the freshly uncovered abrasives get eroded by the tool steel, the changes in friction change the sound it makes. Straight after truing there's a real course rasping quality to the sound....once the cutting has been denuded it becomes  smoother, quieter. A quick rub with a finger will doubtless reveal the stone is smooth.  Now its time to get it rough again. Infrequently I'm happy to use the grader.  When its frequent as with jointer knives its a drag.  That's where perhaps a more aggressive (but fast to use) reactivating tool might have a useful role.