Is the Stone holding nut Stainless Steel?

[Elmer]

The T-3 advertising leaflet states "Main Shaft and stone hardware in stainless steel".
The shaft and the two washers on my recently purchased T-3 appear to be stainless but I can pick up the 19mm nut with a magnet. Should this nut be stainless steel?
Anyone know the answer please?
Best,
Elmer

[Herman Trivilino]

Is the situation the same with the T-7?  I ordered the MSK-250 and, if I recall correctly, it did not come with a stainless steel nut.

[ionut]

On my both T7 and 2000 the shafts are a bit magnetic, when I use an earth magnet which are very strong. The T7 has an ezylock shaft and still the magnet catches slightly. The universal support which is also supposed to be stainless steel catches like any ordinary steel, but so does my Kershaw knife and still I did not see any traces of rust on anything while my Tormek care is pretty minimal.
I guess not all the stainless steel compositions today does not necessarily follow the same old rule.

Ionut

[Herman Trivilino]

The nut I'm talking about is not made of stainless steel.  In fact, IIRC, it's the same nut that came with my 2000 when I bought it about seven years ago.  The MSK-250 did not come with a new nut, as I recall.

[Ken S]

Herman, I'm glad to see you posted on this.  I remembered your earlier post about breaking your wheel.

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=929.0

(Good post and informative.)

With your rusted shaft, did you notice any rust near the threaded end for the drive wheel?  If so, then a stainless nut would be a good idea.  If not, perhaps we have a non existent problem.

My upgrade EZYlock shaft came with very inadequate instructions.  Looking at the old shaft and parts, I have a narrow shaft nut. I only have the one nut now spare, so my kit must have come with only one nut, like Herman's did. The exploded parts diagram in the handbook shows two different nuts for the shaft.  If I interpret metric nut designation correctly, the stone end nut is 6mm thick and the drive wheel side nut is 4mm thick.  I may have assembled my unit with the new EZYlock with the wrong nut.  (Tormek, a diagram would help.)

My handbook shows a parts list for the 1200 model.  The 1200 seems to use the same nut for both ends.  Elmer, does your handbook have the exploded parts diagram for the T3? 

Ken

ps It's well worth everyone's time to read Herman's post about the broken wheel as a warning not to leave the stone in water.

[Jeff Farris]

The EzyLock nut on both models is stainless. Stainless steel manufacturing has changed over the years, and the magnetism test is no longer completely reliable. For example, almost all kitchen knives are stainless today, yet magnetic knife racks still work.

The thin nut in a 10" machine is to be used on the drive wheel/honing wheel side of the machine. It should secure the drive wheel to the shaft. Its distance from the water tray and protected position make it unnecessary for it to be stainless, so it is not included in the upgrade kit.

[Herman Trivilino]

With your rusted shaft, did you notice any rust near the threaded end for the drive wheel?  If so, then a stainless nut would be a good idea.  If not, perhaps we have a non existent problem.

Mine did not get rusty.  Jeff just confirmed in his response that that nut is not included it the upgrade kit.

[Ken S]

My first impression when I saw the EZYlock was that it was a lot of nicely engineered and machined stainless steel for fifty-nine dollars.  I am still impressed with it.

Ken