switching between wheels

[Ken S]

In the Woodworking post ("a note to Steve", Jeff made this comment regarding changing the grinding wheel from the general wheel to the 4000 grit wheel:

"If the diameters are different (and they are) you will have to readjust the Universal Support height, but there's no reason to make any adjustments to the jig."

I have been investigating the possibility of using the TTS-100 for setting the height of the universal support bar when sharpening chisels and planes.  Its two point design automatically self corrects for wheel diameter differences.  When using just one wheel, this seemed overkill.  However, it might simplify switching back and forth between different grit (and diameter) wheels, and also with the honing wheel.

Here is how the procedure works"

1)  Using the TTS=100, set the universal support bar to the lower setting (the thirty degree setting).

2)  Set the length of the tool projection from the SE-76 to the correct angle, using either the Angle Master or black marker.  Note this length and make a gage block or cardboard marker.

3) After switching grinding wheels, set the new wheel with the TTS-100 just as you set the first wheel.  The two point alignment system should automatically realign the tool at the original projection length.

Ken

[Steve Brown]

Ken,
I'm not sure I get it. Could you make a short movie of this so we can see what you're talking about?
Steve

[Ken S]

Steve,

I don't do movies.  However, the movies on this website can help you.  Watch the movie associated with the TTS-100.  It will show you how to set the distance from the stone to the universal support bar using the TTS-100.  (I suggest using the thirty degree setting.)

With the distance set, switch to the WM-200 setter.  Watch the film on the site associated with this jig.  Set the protrusion of the blade for the angle you want.  Do not change the distance of the bar; change the length of the protrusion to achieve the angle you want.

The back of the TTS-100 has three protrusion lengths for turning tools.  One of these may happen to fit the length you want for your blade.  If so, use it and note it for future reference.  If not, you may make a sharpie line on one of the lengths to correspond with the length you want.  Making a kine of a piece of cardboard or plywood would also work.  Be sure to label it.

When you switch wheels, just set the new wheel to the same TTS-100 setting as the original wheel.  The two point design of the TTS-100 automatically calibrates the universal support bar to the same angle.

The same method works with the leather honing wheel.

Good luck.

Ken 

[ionut]

Hi Steve,

I think Ken is referring to the reproduction method of the bevel angle described for the turning tools jig, which can be applied to any tools. That method calls for consistent tool projection in the jig as well as the same distance set for the jig in comparison with the grinding wheel. I have never tried in my case because I would have to keep around all kinds of extra jigs and spacer for setting the tools in the straight jig and for setting the universal support and I guess because I was also lazy . This method may be great for switching the stones I think but there may be some limitations in my opinion. In the case when the stones diameter difference would be to large and especially if the grinding stone (1000 setting) would much larger than the honing stone (4000) and for larger bevels (like mortise chisels or low angle paring chisels) that method may cause the honing stone to hone in the middle of the bevel rather than close to the edge and may still required slight adjustments of the universal support height. But it may be very well work perfectly in most of the cases.

Ionut

[Ken S]

I agree, Ionut.  However, I would guess 95% of the forum sharpen bevel edge chisels to the standard 25 degrees.

Ken