New angle jig KS-123

[Ken S]

Mine shipped today and should be delivered on Monday.

Ken

[darita]

Mine as well should arrive on Monday. I ordered this second one the day after release from Sharpening Supplies.

[AlInAussieLand]

When you get yours guys, can you do a check for me with a practise knife?
Try setting it up trailing...
So, using the MB-102 Multibase and setting it up for trailing type grinding on the stone, try setting the angle to lets say 15 degree and put a grind on it.
Mine without a doubt creates a far more shallow grind then 15 degrees.
Grinding it the traditional way, so with the stone turning towards the edge while grinding, the angle is spot on.

[cbwx34]

When you get yours guys, can you do a check for me with a practise knife?
Try setting it up trailing...
So, using the MB-102 Multibase and setting it up for trailing type grinding on the stone, try setting the angle to lets say 15 degree and put a grind on it.
Mine without a doubt creates a far more shallow grind then 15 degrees.
Grinding it the traditional way, so with the stone turning towards the edge while grinding, the angle is spot on.

While I knew without a doubt it would be the same, I tested it anyway.  Regardless of the setup (edge leading, edge trailing, MB-102, etc.), it's the same result when setup with the KS jig.  So, I'm not sure why you're seeing a noticeably different result.  One thought I had is your not readjusting the height of the USB when switching?  Or maybe the "Protrusion" setting slipped?

One thing you could check is the distance from the top of the USB to the wheel (following an imaginary line to the center), that distance should be the same between your two setups (edge leading vs. MB-102).  (Basically what a calculator that measures directly to the wheel does.)  You could try setting the height this way, then check with the KS jig... maybe that'll help spot why there's a difference.

[AlInAussieLand]

I had my MB-102 a fair way out horizontal, which lowers the vertical guide bar. But that shouldn't make any difference as the stone is round.
Just to clarify.
On both tests, the KS-123 was adjusted for the knife/holder setup and then the vertical bar was adjusted to 15 degrees.
I am going to re-test it tomorrow.

[cbwx34]

I had my MB-102 a fair way out horizontal, which lowers the vertical guide bar. But that shouldn't make any difference as the stone is round.
Just to clarify.
...

You're right, the MB-102 distance out won't matter either.

[3D Anvil]

Finally got my KS-123 today!  So far I'm impressed!  Pretty easy to use out of the box, and accurate?  Set this to 15 dps:

[3D Anvil]

Having said that, there appears to be a significant limitation to this jig....



It looks like you have to have at least 1.5 - 2" of blade on the left side of the knife jig in order to reach the stone and thus set the correct projection distance.  Unless I'm missing something obvious?

[cbwx34]

Having said that, there appears to be a significant limitation to this jig....

You cannot view this attachment.

It looks like you have to have at least 1.5 - 2" of blade on the left side of the knife jig in order to reach the stone and thus set the correct projection distance.  Unless I'm missing something obvious?

The knife doesn't have to reach the stone to set the distance, just needs to fit in the 'V' shaped plastic piece.  (The instructions even say to make sure the knife doesn't slide against the wheel while setting it.)  In fact, the jig itself doesn't even have to touch the wheel.

[3D Anvil]

Having said that, there appears to be a significant limitation to this jig....

You cannot view this attachment.

It looks like you have to have at least 1.5 - 2" of blade on the left side of the knife jig in order to reach the stone and thus set the correct projection distance.  Unless I'm missing something obvious?

The knife doesn't have to reach the stone to set the distance, just needs to fit in the 'V' shaped plastic piece.  (The instructions even say to make sure the knife doesn't slide against the wheel while setting it.)  In fact, the jig itself doesn't even have to touch the wheel.

Oh, we're supposed to read the MANUAL now?!   

I was able to set it correctly after 2-3 tries, but it's definitely trickier with shorter blades, IMO.

[cbwx34]

Oh, we're supposed to read the MANUAL now?! 

You cannot view this attachment.

           

[Sir Amwell]

If it's worrying you , you can always flip the knife over to set in the vee on the straighter portion of the blade?

[Sir Amwell]

Sorry that wasn't very clear.
I noticed from the instructional video that the the protrusion was being set in the vee of the jig at the belly of the knife and thought it may be problematic as the correct protrusion should be set before the curve of the belly ( ie on the straight portion of the blade) to allow for pivoting and or raising to follow the curvature of the blade.
If you flip the knife ( handle on the left) you'll hit the vee at a straighter portion of the blade for most kitchen knives.
Can't be said of shorter blades I suppose...
Or, like Pers prototype, could one set the projection before going near the stone?

[3D Anvil]

It occurred to me that they could put a projection scale on the jig, so you could set it manually that way.

[cbwx34]

It occurred to me that they could put a projection scale on the jig, so you could set it manually that way.

If you have a combo square, caliper, etc. you could use that to set the Projection...

You cannot view this attachment.

... a scale would be convenient though.